Microscope picture 10X power of a micro chip on a used rasor.

Hello:
This is a follow up to my initial tread on 1 feb. 2012 when I requested help dealing with non visible micro chips on a straight razor edge. I have carefully read all the posts and watch some of the suggestive videos. So, I started working on a used razor Benz (Solinger Blade) that I friend of my found it in an antique store in Indiana. I have worked on the edge using the 4K wet stone, but when I look under the microscope at 10X power I can see a substantial chip (invisible to my eyes). I have taken a photo the blade section in questions using a microscope with a camera and I am including it this message. The balde steel appears black and you could probably can tell the area with the long chip. Should I continue honing the blade with the 4K and be more patient or go to another stone, etc? I am hoping to learn more about inserting files so the quality could improve. Once again I look forward to your helpful advice.
Sincerely,

Swicth 59:thinking:


Attachment 89527

I am in the process of learning how to send attachments. So I am hoping to get the indulgence of your patience. Here a picture of my newly acquire used Benz Solinger razor blade segment which contains a chip (invisible to the naked eye). I started working on the micro chips using 4K wet stone with some of the advised from distinguish members of this forum. Any suggestions how to get rid of this wide chip? Back to 1K? or Stay with 4K, or bail out while you still hook to the line in a C-130........

Thanks for considering my request and I hope I inserted this attachment right.

Swicth

Attachment works fine.
I'd be down to 1k on that, from a time perspective. Maybe a layer of tape on the spine is a good idea at this stage too.

Hey, thanks for letting my know about the attachment and the advise.

No probs. You may get a few votes for the 4k too :)

I will keep am eye for it. How is the summer so far. It is a little cold in Indiana.

Awfully wet & low to mid 20's Celsius. Not much of a summer so far but at least the drought is over . Seems cold all over north of the equator.

If the 1k is available, use it, get the chip out and the bevel set as quickly as possible. After that progress up the grits and shave!

Winter in Missouri has never been better or warmer, bring on the global warming, I am liking it! The one thing we need is moisture, it has been too dry.

Thanks for all the advise. Yes, we had the Super Bowl last week and the weather was extremely pleasant.

Another vote for either the 1K or the 4K from me. I think at that level either would be fine, although of course you'll need more time on the 4K. I actually prefer the higher grit for that kind of thing though, as sometimes I think the 1K can exacerbate an edge that likes to get chippy. Depends on the hone, of course.

The rain in Spain falls mainly on the plain.

James.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jimbo

I actually prefer the higher grit for that kind of thing though, as sometimes I think the 1K can exacerbate an edge that likes to get chippy. Depends on the hone, of course.

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This is why they invented 2k & 3k stones :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by onimaru55

This is why they invented 2k & 3k stones :)

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I cannot bring myself to accept an odd numbered grit. It is just wrong.

James.

Then, may I suggest a 1200 grit followed by the 2 k of choice ;)

I hate to pick at nits, but 3,000 is an even number.

I'm just saying.



Marcos

PS: so you know, my wife would just mutter under her breath "who invited the engineer?"

I hope you have already gotten a satisfactory answer, but here's my take for what it is worth...

You should gently breadknife this razor on a low grit plate of W/D Sandpaper. I use a DMT 325 myself.

If you gently rub the edge on the plate it will gradually take that down to the good steel. Don't go past the lowest point or you will be wasting good steel. Then you can hone it as usual on your hones.

Hope this helps!

M

Breadknifing always takes you past good steel. When you are finished breadknifing, you are at good steel, and your additional honing removes steel that should not be removed. I've yet to read a good argument for removing more steel than must be removed. Try 4K, and if you are not making progress, go down to 1K. Hone until the chip is gone and finish from there. Breadknifing is never justified unless you are making a breadknife.

To get past that chip I would take it to the 1K, working a little pressure, if you don't have a 1K you can rasie some slurry on the 4K to speed it up a bit.

Breadknifing will in most cases mean more work and time than if you just hone it out.

In my own defense, I was taught by gssixgun breadknifing to remove a chip, hence my reply. I have learned something here fellows, thank you!! I have a Shapleigh that exibits these exact symptoms and I have been wondering what to do, the micro chips are right at the toe, and just appear to be a ragged spot where the slight smile ends. I have also been told about over honing, so what happens to the rest of the blade when you keep taking it to a 1 or 4k to try and hone them out? Will you end up with a wire edge? or do you dull it before you start out again?

Thanks all!!

Mike

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mjhammer

In my own defense, I was taught by gssixgun breadknifing to remove a chip, hence my reply. I have learned something here fellows, thank you!! I have a Shapleigh that exibits these exact symptoms and I have been wondering what to do, the micro chips are right at the toe, and just appear to be a ragged spot where the slight smile ends. I have also been told about over honing, so what happens to the rest of the blade when you keep taking it to a 1 or 4k to try and hone them out? Will you end up with a wire edge? or do you dull it before you start out again?

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You can avoid radical breadknifing on non major chips by freehanding the blade like a knife & gradually working back down to spine contact. Continued honing on a 1k will overhone the good areas as you repair the bad but a typical 1k edge is not super smooth anyway & any burr etc will be cleaned up as you progress, tho a light pass or 2 on the TNT or a glass will fold the burr over making it even more accessible to the next stone.
If you use magnification you need to educate your eyes to distinguish between microchips & a burr or wire edge. Microchips generally will not disappear on a TNT but a burr or wire usually does. The TNT can then have a dual purpose but I prefer a glass if I suspect a burr.

Breadknifing? That's a new term to me.

Define please.

It is easier to watch the the vid of me teaching the technique to Mike at the Denver meet up google "gssixgun honing denver" and it will pop up


You might want to LISTEN to what I say about not going past the chip when using the many varied degrees of Breadknifing...

There are a couple of vids on there about using it along with warnings about using it wrong.. There is also a vid of me taking out a chip just a touch larger then the one in the pics here, and setting the bevel in 6 minutes...

Ok, nice to see what you look like Glen. Thanks for pointing me to the video.

Interesting spray bottle you have there.

The sound is tough, but I got it with a set of headphones.

Do you use the same kind of technique to remove a frown, or something completely different?

James, thank you the advise. I am hoping to send a picture of my progress.