After honing within 30 minutes my edge on a particular razor starts to rust granted I'll probly answer my own question but I'm using my dmt to get the bevel set I had to bread knife but my other razors have not ever rusted
Printable View
After honing within 30 minutes my edge on a particular razor starts to rust granted I'll probly answer my own question but I'm using my dmt to get the bevel set I had to bread knife but my other razors have not ever rusted
Sandpaper gets rust off well but on the edge...got pics?
http://i1264.photobucket.com/albums/...84AD66A298.jpg
I got mineral oil on it
You need to fix that hook in the heel,, that is crazy
My friend! That is exactly what you Warned us about at the Northwest Meet last year! Thank you for showing us how to eliminate that hook!!:rock:Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
Yep that is a great pic of a well advanced Heel Hook, I have been asked many time what I mean by that term and there is a perfect picture of how they keep getting worse as the honing continues
Well paint me blue and call me babe I didn't even notice I'll be sure to get that our there
I was just thinking he should take the heel off a bit, and then I scrolled and saw your comment, Glenn.Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
That makes me feel that I'm possibly finally learning something :-)
What I'm saying is I'm quite chuffed I had the same thought as you...
You and me both, brother! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by carlmaloschneider
As to the original question I'm afraid I don't have anything to suggest. I have never had an edge rust that quickly on me before. Will be watching this thread with interest...
Edit: just re-read OP, and noticed the 30 minutes thing. That makes a little more sense... I thought it was rusting *immediately*! Note to self: coffee first, then SRP.
+1Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
The bloom you see is the swarf from the DMT getting lapped up onto the blade. This stuff is super fine and has an incredible surface area to volume ratio and will flash rust. I see this all the time on M4 competition (knife blades) I hone on DMTs.
On a razor, I would suggest (getting rid of that deadly hook, and then) basically ignoring that rust and going to your water stones. My real question is why are you waiting 30 minutes? Your edge also has a VERY high surface area and may be rusting also. You need to polish the bevel immediately after the DMTs or oil it.
"Breadknife" is really a four letter word and should not be used in this forum.
As my honing sessions are usually quite Long:( I have seen that happen on one blade in partcular (JMP imperial) The entire blade will discolor,always felt maybe it is just a very high carbon Blade.
Before I hone any blade I now ren-wax them,seems to work for me,granted will not protect the newly honed edge,I just try to keep them dry after each stone.
I may be entirely full of fertilizer here (won't be the first - or last time), but I've gotten downright supersticious about edges having oil on them immediately. Granted - I'm in western Oregon where rust never sleeps. My Wackers will rust in minutes. I've had several blades that will start showing rust in the time it takes to take a leak. Yes, its weird, and I don't know why some rust so fast, but some do. Beyond visible rust, I've had blades I've honed where I dry them and wait until the next day to strop and test. HHT performance drops if I don't have the edge coated w/ oil. So - superstition or not - I've come to think of an uncoated blade as a dull blade.
After fix that heal from the. Nasty hook I'll move to the water stone for sure thanks for the tip about the dmtQuote:
Originally Posted by unit
Than I guess I need more oil so I can put it on my blades religiouslyQuote:
Originally Posted by pinklather
You are wise. any edge by its very nature has a VERY high surface area at the apex (which just happens to be the WORST place to develop any sort of corrosion on a razor). This large surface area offers more birth sites per unit volume for rust/bloom/corrosion to develop. What is even scarier is you cannot even see the spots sometimes, but you will feel them! Part of what a strop does is removal of surface bloom on the edge...but if it gets too big, the strop will not be as effective.Quote:
Originally Posted by pinklather
There are many ways that an edge looses its keenness. Oxidation is one (perhaps totally avoidable) method. Dulling from use is the only one you really want;)
Use a bowl for your water supply & stir in a tiny amount of baking soda, maybe a teaspoon or so. That will change the ph slightly & make it less likely to cause rust
Some other notes to understand from just the pic, That is a little bit different grind, which is why is is presenting a bit of a challenge.. See the hollow then the stiffer 1/8 inch of steel that makes up the edge ..
Here is some info in this thread about the grind, http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...al-scales.html look especially at the discussion from #19 and beyond in that thread..
Breadknifing that type of grind created a much larger problem then a Breadknife on other grinds, also if you are into that much of a reapir and still on the DMT it tells me that you Breadknifed it and then started setting the bevel which will take hours... There are step by step ways to do it that make it way easier and way less problematic..
You have compounded quite a few problems into one repair which, with the info that I have from that one pic I can't figure out the overall fix...
Basically the rust is a minor issue, and the solution is hone faster :p
I was wondering if my eyes were deceiving me. I see now.
If it were mine I would use a very light touch on my DMT extra coarse. I would keep a really close eye on what is going on and stop just short of joining the bevels then go back to the 600 and remove the scratches. I'd try not to join the bevels until the 1200 grit DMT (even better if done on 1000 grit water stones probably).
I have all the DMTs so that is what I use until I hit 4k. Oddly I never use the 325 on razors. It's a dangerous proposition to use even coarser, but I think you may have some removal ahead of you.
There are a few Vids on my youtube channel that deal with this I prefer to keep them off of SRP because Beginners use them wrong...Quote:
Originally Posted by unit
The gradual DMT use like you are describing will work but it will rip the holy heck outta the bevel with deep scratches... Take a look at the vids and listen to the logic behind the steps and it will all make sense to you as you have a firm grasp of honing principals... Should pop a light on for you really easy
Thanks. I have seen a few of your vids, would you mind sending me a pm with the ones you are referring?Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
I basically hate diamonds on razors, but I so rarely need anything coarser than 4K and generally set my bevels with the 4k norton. If I saw a greater need for coarser water hones I'd spend the cash...but they would see light so infrequently. I agree diamonds are hell on carbon steel, but value your insight.
Thanks
"blades that will start showing rust in the time it takes to take a leak"
You aren't holding those razors in your hands while you're taking that leak are you?
Looks like I should have a lot of work ahead of meQuote:
Originally Posted by unit
Hey glen could u also send me a pm with you videos I'd appreciate itQuote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
Now I'm having a hard time with setting the bevel granted this razor is just for honing practice only since it is so ragged looking maybe I should try the bellied hollow just yet
I just have one word for you... Micro-fiber. Or is it two words? Keep you blade dry when not on the stones. A great example of how quickly rust can form.
And don't remove that hook, it'll give you face character, cheaper that a tatoo.
Hey Scarface!
Honestly, I prefer a nice soft dry cotton hand towel. It's soft and will not hurt the blade, yet very, very absorbent. I acquired six plain white cotton hand towels for my shave den and two navy blue ones for honing. Number one, my wife likes coordinated bathrooms, so the white hand towels remain for my use only. Number two, we have no rooms that would remotely go with the nave blue towels so those are safe as well.
I actually wipe my blades frequently while honing... I don't know why, but I get a better feel for the bevel and polish with a dry blade.
But I have never used a DMT to try and set a bevel. I have used 1000 and 2000 grit sandpaper, a soft arkansas, and a king waterstone. Mainly because those are the only things I have that would set a good bevel... Shockingly, the sandpaper was really, really, really fast and didn't cause much honewear or give a harsh bevel :hmmm: ... The king waterstone takes more off the spine and edge than the sandpaper(Weird right?).
With all of the said, frequent drying means no rust, but also, the only times I ever spend more than ten minutes or so on setting a bevel is on the Arkansas... Is the DMT as hard and slow cutting?
DMTs are basically as hard as a diamond and extremely fast. However because they are nonporous, the micro swarf sort of builds up.
I could speak a long time about how great DMTs are for blades, and how harsh of an edge they create. (ever scrub your face with a garden rake?)
Maybe a time or two hahahaQuote:
Originally Posted by unit