I haven't been able to find 3m electrical tape, I would've thought it was quite common, maybe i'm not looking in the right places.
also taping the razor seems really difficult, more so than it looks on the videos anyway. Do I need to get the razor dead center on the tape?
I use several brands, 3M is great if you really have to work up through the levels.
I use any brand, if I'm just refreshing.
Not dead center, but cover the distance of the cutting edge & smooth, no air bubbles caught near the spine.
It's not hard, just don't drop your razor when taping it. :shrug:
If you mean 3M, it's just a brand name (Minnesota Mining and Manufacturing). Electrical insulating tape made of PVC is widely available from many manufacturers. Centreline of the tape to run along the razor's spine. Taping is probably the simplest part of the operation.
I use a generic brand which works quite well. Since it's almost finished I ended up getting some Nitto tape. What worries me was that it may not be the same thickness across the tape due to the embossing of the brand. Since then I've used it once, didn't have much problem.
I try to put the blade dead center on the tape, but Hirlau pointed the important part.
Sy
Just visit your nearest electrical supply store, they will have it by the boat load.
Saitou, there's nothing sacred about using 3M brand. 3M has different types of black electrical tape, some of which aren't as good as some non-3M brands. You'll notice in gssixgun's vids - he specifies a particular product number. This is to get those attributes like a tough skin that holds up to the abrasion of the stones.
On centering - the big variable is, as Hirlau mentions, for it to be smoothly laid down against the spine surface. Also important for getting the point well honed - is not to have excess tape hanging off the end of the spine that could affect smooth contact at the end of the stroke - which affects the edge at the point. Big factor on tape & centering: if you're honing a true wedge or very near wedge - then centering the spine is critical. The thickness of the tape and its placement can literally have you working a slightly different and asymetric bevel with each change of tape. With old fart eyes - I get good light behind the blade, visualy sight from heel to point - making sure the edge appears visually centered over the spine, close one eye to get a single view and make sure the back lighting gives me equal reflection on both sides of the blade before I touch down the spine onto the tape surface near the heel. With the heel anchored, I use the same process to center the point, and after anchoring the point, press the tape along the length of the spine so it stays in place until I flip it over and cut the tape. The cut is square, and usually back onto the curve of the spine at the tip - so no excess interferes with the honing of the point. Its easier to show then it is to describe. Glen's vids are very helpful there. The wedge or near wedges are the only blades I get this careful with on tape placement.
Want the best lesson on Taping :)
Google "gssixgun honing speedster"
That vid that Mark and I did is still what I consider one of the best, because it isn't me honing, and things sometime do look really easy when myself or Lynn or another guy with a ton of experience is doing something.. That vid is of Mark's first attempt at honing and it address' little problems like applying the tape :p
That vid reminds me that it is the little things that pros make look easy that mess ya up, it reminds me of when I watch those DIY shows on TV and think to myself "Ya I can make that Cabinet, that looks easy" then I realize that I am not a carpenter :rofl2:
I always try and tape even and smooth
I don't use tape very often but when I do, I prefer the thick, glossy electrical tape. It slides across the hone better. I've actually got a roll of Nitto tape at the moment and I'm not impressed with it. It' too thin and has a cloth like feel to it. I'll be getting something else in the near future.