So basically if I go with light to no pressure tape is not "really" necessary..
It sounds like a good idea to keep them separate!
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I think I might have just made up the NASA thing. Yep I did but it was used for rockets!
WD-40 was invented by the three founders of the Rocket Chemical Company of San Diego, California. The team of inventors were working on a line of industrial rust-prevention solvents and degreasers for use in the aerospace industry.
WD-40 was first used to protect the outer skin of the Atlas Missile from rust and corrosion.
I think you're wrong about that Brooksie. Lather is used for faster cutting, water for final finishing. Try it, and you will agree. Otherwise, not much else for me to contribute to this thread.Quote:
I think that's why, in the past, barbers used to use lather on their barbers hones. It'd give the razor just that little bit of cushion while honing thus eliminating the pressure of the razor on the abrasive.
Depends on the razor & what needs doing. The only absolute is that stone abrades steel & you should be in control of where & why.
A light restoration on a hollow grind with mint geometry or a new razor can be honed with no tape & introduce minimal spine wear if you have the hands. Notice I say minimal & not nil spine wear but even from the factory there is some spine wear so the degree again is your choice.
The bevel set may take less than 5 mins on said razor & may even be achieved with a 2-5K hone.
A 100yr + wedge is another can of worms.
In my opinion no; especially after the bevel is set.
If anything, until you have a good feel for torque, use tape for any heavy grinding work, and then take it off to finalize the bevel set and sharpen.
That would prevent most of the hone wear.
When I do any heavy grinding, I torque the razor to reduce wear. I don't remember if the technique was easy when I was starting or not.
Some people do that too, and some of the newer barber manuals mention soap lather. I think I've seen it in instructions for newer barber hones too.