I will soon receive a Naniwa 12,000 and a Norton 220/1000 set of stones. Do i need to lap all 3 grits with my DMT325? For inquisitive minds, yes, i do have the 4000/8000 Norton already. Thx
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I will soon receive a Naniwa 12,000 and a Norton 220/1000 set of stones. Do i need to lap all 3 grits with my DMT325? For inquisitive minds, yes, i do have the 4000/8000 Norton already. Thx
I did not lap my 220, I don't set bevels with it, I only use it for rough repair jobs. I did lap my 1000, 4/8 : I don't own a Naniwa 12K, so I will not comment. I finish my lapped stones with a few strokes on a DMT 1200. I don't leave anything above a 4K,with a DMT 325 finish.
I didn't lap my 220 either, but I lapped the rest of my stones. The only time I have ever used the 220 was to reprofile the point that had the toe chipped off on a razor.
I lapped my Naniwa 12k (using wet n dry paper on a glass sheet) - it didn't take long to lap, but at first the pencil grid showed that it wasn't perfectly flat.
I lap everything. The 220 can do a number on your blade if its very off as a lot of them are. I use dmt 1200 for bevels, and lapping film lately so that's not been an issue.
I have pretty much those same stones Norton 220/1000, Norton 4000/8000, Naniwa 12000. I lapped them all with a DMT 325 except for the 220. I probably need to hit my 12000 with some higher grit wet/dry 600 or 800 as well. Enjoy your new rocks!
They all need to be lapped if your going to use them for putting an edge on a razor. I would even do the 220 just to be safe. I use a DMT 325 and a 5/8 peice of tempered glass and 320 grit wet/dry sand paper sometimes. Either way you'll be fine.
I have yet to really notice a difference on the razor edge from a hone lapped from DMT 1200 vs the DMT 325. That could merely be a function showing that I have yet to enter a zen state of honing prowess, lol. So, out of paranoia, on my part, I also lap my higher grit hones and naturals with a DMT 1200 after the 325, if for nothing else to raise a slurry. It would be interesting to see if someone could show a comparison of an edge via microscope, for example, on an edge off a Nani 12K lapped off of a 325 vs 1200 to see if there is a visible difference. Or, if that difference doesn't show visually, we could have a detailed description of shave feel from each method. My guess would be that most of the time the results from each are comparable but the odds for more keenness and smoothness are improved when you have lapped a finer surface on your hone since more of it can now have contact with your edge.
+1 on what has already been said. Use another one of your stones, such as the 4K to lap the Naniwa 12K after you use the DMT 325 on it. For regular maintenance of the 12K, I recommend using the 4K to clean off the glazing/swarf buildup (just make sure the 4K is flat too!) after every use...I use a 3K to lap my naniwa 12K before use to get a bit of slurry and afterwards to clean it up and it works just fine for me.
I also recall Lynn talking about how the new nortons have become a bit grainy feeling...he talks about it here in the beginning of the vid http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=
I always envisaged the difference between the surfaces left by lapping grits (say 300 vs 1200) like the difference between the surfaces of a bitumen road and, say, a concrete path.
I guess the main difference with the analogy is that on hones the surface will smooth out with use. For example, you could always lap with 300 and then run a screwdriver shaft over the hone surface a few times - much like how some people suggest you "cure" a new DMT.
But I suppose the big question is: "just how different are the topology of the surfaces between a 325 and 1200 grit lapper?" The answer should be able to be worked out, to within acceptable margins of error and using some reasonable though generic (yet plausible) assumptions, based on grit geometry I would think. Anecdotal evidence suggests any topographical differences aren't overly worrisome when it comes to honing a razor, but it would be interesting to see a visualisation represented on the scale of the edge.
James.
If I had a USB microscope, I would try to figure it out & display it in photos. :shrug:
Is there any situation with the stones/plates we've mentioned that i would have to worry about "grit" contamination from one to the other? For example: using the DMT325 to the 220 Norton or 4000 Norton to the 12,000 Nany if all surfaces are cleaned afterwards. When I starting out lappiing my 4000/8000 with the DMT i could see a couple of minute specks on the surface of the stone which i figured was small particles from the plate. I did condition the plate some before using. I was a little concerned after seeing that.