DMTs up to 8K

Hello, I recently purchased a 4k equivalent and 8k equivalent dmt. So I did a hone on a new blade with the 1200, 6 micron(4k) and 3 micron (8k) dmts, then finished on 1 um film and crox and 100 laps on .1 cbn on nanocloth, 100 leather. Excellent edge and shave. I broke them in well with a shank of a screwdriver to make sure the surface was smooth and the loose diamond was knocked off. Very fast, no microchips. A little soapy water on each. And no lapping or slurry banging into your edge especially at the lower grit. Anybody else out there using this progression of dmts? I was under the impression that it might lead to a harsh shave but that was not the case.

No, most of us use waterstones or oilstones as diamonds typically do leave microchips. Diamond stones are also very fast, exponentially faster than waterstones. I personally only use diamond stones for my stones or resetting the bevel on kitchen/pocket knives. Last but not least, diamonds are for the ladies...

I've only used the diamond plates for some tough ATS-34, and S30-V razors and followed up with waterstones. I will take a kitchen knife to a DMT 325 when I need it but I prefer waterstones for my razors. Glad to hear that you got good results with yours.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by shooter74743

No, most of us use waterstones or oilstones as diamonds typically do leave microchips. Diamond stones are also very fast, exponentially faster than waterstones. I personally only use diamond stones for my stones or resetting the bevel on kitchen/pocket knives. Last but not least, diamonds are for the ladies...

---

I know what you mean about microchips but the 4 k equivalent will remove these. I dull on glass up to 4k. Even with the extra time to get er sharp again your still way ahead in terms of time and the finish is excellent imo. Im not saying my way is better but it works well. Slurry banging into the edge is never a problem you only have to deal with the swarf.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bill3152

...
Anybody else out there using this progression of dmts? I was under the impression that it might lead to a harsh shave but that was not the case.

---

Almost the same?

I use 1200 mesh to set the edge, if needed, then go straight to the 8k mesh. Followed by a barber hone and usually newspaper. Works fast and well. A very, very few of my razors also like the Dovo black paste.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bill3152

And no lapping or slurry banging into your edge especially at the lower grit. Anybody else out there using this progression of dmts? I was under the impression that it might lead to a harsh shave but that was not the case.

---

I've used the DMT's a few years back but found they chewed up the edge of certain razors beyond a quick fix & I also found it quicker to use waterstones overall.

For me, slurry dulling is a myth unless you plan to shave off your bevel setter..

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by onimaru55

I've used the DMT's a few years back but found they chewed up the edge of certain razors beyond a quick fix & I also found it quicker to use waterstones overall.

For me, slurry dulling is a myth unless you plan to shave off your bevel setter..

---

Slurry dulling is something I never experienced.

I have the full set of DMTs and a handful of diamond loaded strops. I have learned (through many trials) that diamonds work very fast and the resulting edges are very sharp, but have a harshness that I cannot tame without going back to 4k water stones.

Faces vary. Mine does not like diamonds.

I'm still trying to wrap my head around this notion of slurry banging into the edge. I'm just not able to envision a particle that size floating in a slurry holding enough inertia to damage an edge.

OTOH swarf is present on DMTs unless you rinse and scrub after every stroke. I'd suggest this would be more detrimental to an edge than a properly evolved slurry...but I'm just supposing.

Love my diamonds for my competition and hard use knives, but I like water stones for my razors.

YM(and face)MV

Regarding the slurry dulling, I am only repeating what I have read here. Ive never used a coti but some new users report their blades getting duller after the bevel set. And the reason given was the garnets are suspended in the slurry and dulling the edge. Ive worked up slurry on my 4k Norton with my dmt and didn't find any apparent difference. It did cut a little faster. Regarding dmts, I find them very useful, I use very little pressure and soapy water. I get the same hht after the dmt 8k as I get with the Norton 8k. Everybody is different so we will do what gets us to where we want to be. I have shaved off a coti edge and it felt dullish. The phig is very slow. I know naturals vary as do the people that use them. I would love to get a j nat, but where do you start? And all the nagura stones. I wouldn't know a good one from a bad one. Unless you buy 10 and try them out. Eschers, thuringians, are highly variable from what I have read also. Actually eschers are thuringians . So I guess Im stuck with my dmts, nortons and film! But one of these days Im gonna have to scratch the itch of j nats.

I hear you. DMTs do work very fast and give very sharp consistent edges. It's just a matter of compatibility with the cutting chore.

Sounds like you have found a good combination that gives a finish you like. I cannot offer advice on Jnats but I would guess that you won't get the same feeling from them (even a great one) that you will from diamonds (just a guess though.

Have fun and may your journey not empty your wallet :D

From what I've read on the subject slurry dulling would be happening in the early stages of the honing after the edge has reached a certain level. According to those who are using a coticule for 'one stone honing' this is where the honer begins to dilute the slurry in stages as the honing continues. Eventually the honer is down to pretty much clear water. I tried this a time or two way back when. Seeing as how I have the stones to accomplish the purpose I don't bother with one stone honing, and if I use a slurry, as I frequently do on my Escher, it is thin and I will soon be to clear water. On those occasions when I use a coticule it is as a finisher, usually without slurry, and following working through a progression up to 8k before the coticule.

Like unit, I don't find the edge honed off of DMT 8k pleasing to my particular face. I have used a DMT progression with tough steels but always had to go on to waterstones to refine the edge to where it would be smooth and comfortable for me. As unit said, if the diamond plates are working for you to give a comfortable shave you're right where you want to be. This sport has always been YMMV and the diamonds won't get it for me as the final finisher. Different strokes for different folks.

Like the others, I use my DMT's for knives mostly, and the coarser one's for lapping XX and C. If I have a very difficult bevel, I'll use a Dmt, but it's rare. I've tried the fine and extra fine, and even had the EE or 8000 mesh. The EE I sent back. I couldn't tell one side from the other. The vendor said "Use the text on the side to tell." Lately, I'm enjoying the newer stones coming out of Japan like the Suehiro and Chosera's. For most of my honing, I use the Shapton GS series.

I've never used lapping film either. I tried to get some and had a difficult time with the vendor, so I gave up. One thing I haven't found is any variance in Escher. They seem to be the only consistent natural I've ever found. YMMV. I with you on the Jnats. There needs to be a college course on them. Not only that, you need to watch out for counterfeit stones.

It's good to hear your getting nice shaves off yours.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by zib

Like the others, I use my DMT's for knives mostly, and the coarser one's for lapping XX and C. If I have a very difficult bevel, I'll use a Dmt, but it's rare. I've tried the fine and extra fine, and even had the EE or 8000 mesh. The EE I sent back. I couldn't tell one side from the other. The vendor said "Use the text on the side to tell." Lately, I'm enjoying the newer stones coming out of Japan like the Suehiro and Chosera's. For most of my honing, I use the Shapton GS series.

I've never used lapping film either. I tried to get some and had a difficult time with the vendor, so I gave up. One thing I haven't found is any variance in Escher. They seem to be the only consistent natural I've ever found. YMMV. I with you on the Jnats. There needs to be a college course on them. Not only that, you need to watch out for counterfeit stones.

It's good to hear your getting nice shaves off yours.

---

Pm me your address and I can send you a sheet of 3 micron and 1 micron. Its from thor labs and is alum oxide.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by unit

I cannot offer advice on Jnats but I would guess that you won't get the same feeling from them (even a great one) that you will from diamonds (just a guess though.

---

Yup. That would be some apples & oranges right there. ;)

It doesn't matter that much whether you use an 8k Norton or an 8k DMT diamond. In either case you are shaving from the last hone that you used on the razor, in this case the film or .1 cbn; depending on the viewpoint.

That sounds logical. I think as long as your progression removes the scratches and microchips from the lower grits.

There is a simple reason why many find the DMT's to leave a harsh edge, the Diamonds cut deeper than Waterstone grit does, it does not release nor wear down... This means it tends toward a very rough edge, this is great for cutting tools, but not a desirable effect for a Straight Razor..

Two different types of cutting actions..

There are several tricks to get these to work more gently like the drop of soap, but at their core they are designed to cut steel deeply and quickly with no loading..

I first encountered DMTs many years ago. Unlike carbon steel knives, I could not get my stainless steel knives sharp using Arkansas stones. The service rep. at Woodcraft suggested the diamonds in the DMT as a faster cutting easier to use substitute for the Arkansas stones. The DMT followed by pasted strops finally got my stainless steel filleting and kitchen knives sharp. I still use the DMTs on knives, but based on how they work on my knives, consider them too toothy and fast cutting to risk trying them on my straight razors. However, DMTs work wonders for flattening my Japanese and Norton waterstones.that I use and that work well on my razors. I would probably try the DMTs as a first step for razors needing heavy duty steel removal during restoration. I do use diamond pastes on bench and paddle strops as well as CrOx and FeOx pastes. I especially like the diamond pasted strops on stainless steel razors.

HTH