In your mind is it worth pay extra for a sword with an active blade if there is an identical sword that is inactive?
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In your mind is it worth pay extra for a sword with an active blade if there is an identical sword that is inactive?
And what would be the difference between Active / Inactive if both are identical?
Sharpened= Active Dull= Inactive
If the sword is for display or ceremonial use would there be any need for it being sharpened? Just asking having no huge experience with swords.
Bob
I tried to dabble in Japanese swords a bit and ended up with three out of five being fakes. I use one Katana fake for trimming tree limbs here at the house, have passed on the other two as they really were: fake. Of the two real Japanese swords (wakizashi's) I have, they are just naked blades. I give you this reference because I wanted you to see that you can loose your tail if you aren't real, real careful purchasing swords. I thought I was being careful & was two out of five...I lost thousands of $ & got out.Quote:
Originally Posted by KiltedTexan
Now, to answer your question I have to ask a question. What is your intent with the sword? If you are wanting to get into cutting, I would recommend starting out with a modern piece. Sure would hate it if you damaged a old sword by making a bad cut.
Lastly, are you looking to find an old sword, have it polished & new furniture put on it? Check the pricing before you do. Each sword is different and can cost thousands to polish as well as having furniture made for it. All of the furniture must be made one at a time, as each sword is truly unique...nothing is a universal fit.
Hope this helped or at least muddied the water...
O.K. , I'll ask the dumb question;
What does active & unactive mean in regard to swords?
Read post #3 :<0)Quote:
Originally Posted by Hirlau
I did but got confused :shrug:
Sharp is active, in other words you can actively use it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hirlau
Dull is inactive. If you pull it in a fight you lose. :<0)
Active is shave ready !
That clears it up, thanks,,,
In that case it is easy.
If you are experienced in a sword art and wanting to do live practice (did I mention being an experienced practitioner?) then use / buy a live blade. If you are not experienced, or if you do not want specifically do train with a live blade, then don't. Even really experienced sword masters sometimes cut themselves. I know of one such experienced person with decades of experience who had to go to the ER because something went wrong sheating the sword and he poked it through his side. Luckily it was only skin and no meat / organs.
No matter how good / careful you think you are, unless you are trained, you really shouldn't use a live blade because the risks are too big.
Right on Bruno, I have had to have stitches because of bad hand placement when sheathing a katana. Good clean cut though, just like a razor.
I'm not into the Asian stuff, preferring and having trained in European sword craft, starting off with Rapier and moving through to other styles such as Claymore, small sword, and various second weapons with the Rapier etc. I own dulled training weapons as well as a couple of live blades. Personally I would have live blades, but then I have had some training. An untrained person should stick with dulled beaters. believe me, I know from experience that even they can do some damage requiring micro surgery if you stuff up during training!
Mick