Thanks - I'll do that! I was so giddy at how much the edge improved over the factory at the 1k I just went right to work with it :)
I'll definitely give that a shot.
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I wonder if you can get general use (chopping,Dicing, sliceing) Kitchin knives to sharp?
I worry about ruining and edge (rolling it) on the cutting brds I use.
Only knife I use a stone on are my Boning Knives as they never make contact with a cutting brd.
I'm no knife expert but I assume so. I think that's the age old trade - sharp vs. longevity of the edge. They are continually trying to make up for it in material properties such that you can have more of both worlds, but still, at some point you can make an edge too shallow/fragile. For my knife, I think it was really more about getting a bevel on it from what it had from the factory. I think for hard use I probably don't need to go past that...
Hard rock Maple.
Attachment 166215
End grain boards are considered the gentlest on the knife edge, but as long as it is wood it will be good.
Plastic, glass not good.
If you have quality knifes with HRC ~60 you will have good edge retention,as long as the HT is well done.
Never seen one that was too sharp:)
I hone my Gyoto's and all my single bevel knives all the way.
Meaning I will finish them on Japanese finishers, 10+ synths and the like.
To maintain the edges I strop pretty often, if not every time, and I use end-grain boards.
Seems to work just fine!
Granted, they are all of pretty decent steel and make, some heat treated as high as HRC 67-68
Problem with end grain brds is they also suck up and retain fluids that harbors bacteria.
Best cutting brd I have ever Had was a 24 inch end grain japanese round doug fir brd, 4 in. thick
always had mold on it.