You have a nice axe puck there...clean it up & get a proper axe!Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelfixed
Printable View
You have a nice axe puck there...clean it up & get a proper axe!Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelfixed
I've seen quite a few Norlund axes lately while cruising the bay, are they as good as they look?
I have no use for it shooter,do not do axes,Ihave a chainsaw:)Quote:
Originally Posted by shooter74743
This is where I read about them.
Norlund Co.
There' also a plethora of info on other vintage axes on that same site.
There seems to be a lot of guys that collect them, a huge following. I've been on some of the blade and axe forums and most guys love them. Some guys say they weren't really that great and were cheaply made. The packaging did say, Made in America though, which I like. Before all the crap steel started to come out of china.
My experience with the axe itself is 0. So I have no idea how they perform.
That # 107 is in great condition it appears, just needs a little cleaning. I have 2 # 107's. My grandfather used a 107 daily, Monday through Thursday when in the fields cutting collard orders for Winn Dixie & the smaller private owned markets. He have several large field knives that he honed on the 107, after the days work. It's easy to hold in one hand & do small circles with the blade in the other hand.Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelfixed
Personally, the best I've had but I suspect a far cry from a Gransfors BruksQuote:
Originally Posted by shooter74743
The steel in my opinion is a bit softer than I'd like to see as a file bites quite readily. It does seem to cut well and keep a half decent edge though.
I hope that helps in some way :)
mike
I have recently had the opportunity to pick up a Wetterlings Forrest Clearing Axe and Gransfors Bruk Small Forest Axe, a Lansky Puck and the Gransfors Bruks puck. I will do my best to give a review of them.
I had owned a Estwing axe that was really pretty good by any standards that I knew, it cut deep and well, but I noticed that it cut best by cutting at almost a 45degree angle. This is really a steep angle as if you get off much more it will glance...which is VERY dangerous as all straight razor guys keep their edged tools rather sharp...right?
I think this thread got me to order the Wetterlings axe and I have to say that it's everything that you have heard and then some once you get it in hand and put it to work. It just seems to cut with more authority and feels "right" in the hand.
Attachment 151059Attachment 151060Attachment 151061Attachment 151062Attachment 151063
After two and a half days of clearing tree branches & limbs here at the house, I have a new respect for this axe. Is it worth it, in one word: YES I have now went to work to restore the shaving sharp edge to the axe and it is good hard steel. I can see that setting a proper bevel on it by hand will be a chore. Who ever ground this axe the first time didn't keep things nice and even, so I will have a great time getting it right...but once it's there I feel that it will work even better.
The Lansky puck? Its a great tool and I recommend it to anyone. The Gransfors Bruks puck, I think it's too small and recommend you to pick up something else...not worth the $$.
Looks great shooter,but where do you put the gas and bar oil into:)
I believe it soaks into the haft of the axe in the form of honest sweat and hard work pixel ;). I have a small tomahawk or three, but no real full sized axes. I love the double headed woodsman's axe, but haven't seen any in this country. I would own one of them if I could. I also have a chainsaw and have done a lot of work with them in my days of volunteer rescue and emergency services, but axes are safer even if they are slower.
Mick
I did fire up the Husqvarna for a couple of trees...but did most of the clearing with axes.
I heated my last house for 23 years with wood,5 cords/yr,all split by hand with mauls and wedges,I know what sweat is.:)Quote:
Originally Posted by MickR
I will follow up with a working review of the Gransfors Bruk Small Forest Axe but can give a first impression. When comparing it to the Wetterlings, there is just a bit more "fit and finish" to the GB axe. Hammermarks are less prominent & it flows just a bit smoother, but it still has the handmade feel about it. Hoping to be able to finish up on the yard tomorrow and put it through some paces, but until then...here's some pics:
Attachment 151081Attachment 151080Attachment 151079Attachment 151078Attachment 151082
Hey Scott , are you going to be doing any cutting soon?
Attachment 151085Attachment 151086
I might add that the book/pamplet that comes along with the GB axe is a good short read.
As you can see, I have started polishing the Wetterlings axe, will take a few hours to get it where I want it...but I enjoy honing & polishing with stones :cool:
I plan on putting the GB (the smaller of the two) to work tomorrow as long as this cold/flu doesn't set me back. Most of the big stuff is cut up into sizes that I can handle, so the small axe is just right for stuff that is about as big as your arm or smaller. We will see as I am curious myself to a comparison of the cutting action of the two.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hirlau
I have a few Carborundum # 107 round hones, I think they will be much better than the Lansky's, but thinking & knowing are two different animals. (BTW I also have 2 Lansky pucks) If you PM me your address, I would send one of the 107's for you to use & evaluate against the Lansky; the 107's are dual grit, true carborundum, over 60 years old & as good condition wise as the day they were made. Would you test it, if I send it??
This is one similar to the one I will send:
Attachment 151087Attachment 151088Attachment 151089
THIS IS A VERY NICE BOOK! Some good info there on axes and a LOT of other good info for outdoors-men. Thanks for the recommendation!Quote:
Originally Posted by Leatherstockiings
I agree the book is really useful. I find myself picking it up to read every now and then.
Sharpening an axe with Lansky puck and Gransfors Bruks Ceramic puck.
My right arm is about to fall off after honing my axe and doing some blacksmithing today. I gave the Wetterlings axe a good once over with the pucks today & it's ready for service again. After viewing a few Gransfors Bruks videos, reading a bit, and my background in polishing swords, honing razors...I felt that I was ready to help the axe & not hurt it.
I gave both stones, which are both double sided, a few swirls around the area needing some grinding and polishing to get a feel for them both. By my observation, the Lansky (both sides) was more coarse than the GB & actually they work well as a sharpening "system". I started out with the Lansky coarse side and saw quickly that I would have to have some water or something like a light oil (wd 40 comes to mind) to keep the stone from clogging. I used a steady drip from the sink as it stayed around freezing all day outside today and is till quite windy as I write this. After I smoothed out the rough spots from the forging process like I originally wanted with the coarse side, I flipped the stone and continued my circles working to remove the previous scratch marks from the coarser Lansky side. Once I was happy with removing the rough scratch marks I went to the GB puck. The rough side just fell in line on a "progression". I had never even gotten closer than 1/8" to the edge with the Lansky as I didn't want any rough scores in the cutting edge. The GB stone is physically a smaller stone in diameter & the coarse side is finer than the fine side on the Lansky. I worked the coarse GB puck over both sides of the axe and actually touched the edge a bit, removing all the previous scratch marks from the previous stone...then it was time for the fine side of the GB puck. This is where the GB puck shined, literally. It polished quite well and I'm sure I could have pushed the edge right to shaving no problem with the fine puck...but I had one other stone in mind. I had received a Hindostan stone from a gentleman here on SRP and I use it on pocket knives quite regularly & boy did it do a nice job on the axe. Everything just felt right, so I stopped & dried the axe, oiled it, and put it away.
Is the Lansky puck worth it? Yes, as it's cheap ($10 shipped) and does what it is supposed to do...but in my opinion it is more for repairs and "grinding" your axe.
Is the GB puck worth it? I gave $45 shipped for my puck, was the best deal I could find at that time. It's compact and would work great for traveling light in the woods, backpacking/hiking, or hunting. Will I use it a lot around the house? I doubt it.
I regret selling my Norton set of stones, the 220/1K stone would in my opinion be perfect for honing a quality axe like this. I will work a bit with some other stones I have around & see if I like honing an axe with 3x8 stones. Doesn't really matter as I am enjoying this journey & hope some day to make a few axes.
My final word on honing an axe is to watch that edge! I have cut myself rather severly before sharpening an axe with just files, so honing an axe IMO is even easier to get a finger.
Here is the best video that I have seen for axe honing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AKJhhz-643k
The Norton # 107 should reach you Tuesday or Wednesday at the latest, put it to the test.
Did you stabilize the axe head as you worked on it or did you free hand the haed & the puck?
I tried a 3x8 stone once on an axe & found it difficult in working the edge to a good convex bevel. The shape of the stone & the way I held it was difficult,,,yet the round stone allows my hand/wrist more range of movement & an easier better convex result,,I did stabilize the head each time.
I have used a beat up Swaty to polish each time.
*******Disclaimer********
I never get to chop wood & my outdoor lumberjack activities are limited to what I see on my 48" Samsung,,,,BUT,,,I hope to make it up north someday & apply what I've learned on T.V. & get lessons in person from a real woodsman,,,,maybe before I die. :(
I checked the tracking on the #107 and it is supposed to be delivered today sometime to the Post Office. I stabilized the axe for sharpening. I folded a dish cloth to protect the center section of the sink (our sink is porcelain coated cast iron) and actually used the puck that I wasn't using to support the cutting edge to where I could work on the head.
A couple of Mates of mine used to work in clearing trees. They honed their axes in the field on the fly and did it mostly free hand. From their accounts of the job it was a rough workplace so honing their axes that way was the least of the problems :).
Mick
Sounds strange coming from someone whom shaves with a straight razor.... ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelfixed
Another book to look into is called woodsmanship by Bernard mason
Was written in 1945 if you google it you should be able to find a free PDF. It's got everything you need to know.
heres a couple of pics of my number one !
was a restoration project a little while back . its a True Temper black prince made by welland vale back in the 50's
it was their top of the line back in the day ! quite a score from el thrift shop for $3!
I had been saving a piece of maple that had really nice orientation and straight grain in my workshop for years prior to finding this axe head . used only hand tools to sculpt the handle gave it a purple hart wedge and finished it with a oil beeswax finish .
stiched it a leather sheath too .
anyways hope you like !
cheers
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...e/IMG_0349.jpg
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...5477da6622.jpg
http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_0091-1.jpg
Nice job you did Memk. Love that maple handle.
Nice Memk, but can it shave?
Shaved a few limbs so far ! I'm still learning to sharpen a razor .
This is a real treat,89 yr old nieghbor just brought this over as a gift,he used it in the 30s working in the conservation corps.
he was going to toss it in the garbage,Has the most beautifull solid Hickory handle still tight to the head.
I think it was made by true temper,an amazing artifact.
Attachment 173069
Nice gift,,, I'd clean her up & preserve the leather,,, she'lll last another 100 years.
Can't wait to see it cleaned up!
Wow what a score ! What a kind gift . Are you going to restore it ?
Just got back home after spending the last couple of days taking this:
Attachment 182309
Via this:
Attachment 182310
And this:
Attachment 182311
And this:
Attachment 182312
Into this:
Attachment 182308
Can't wait to make a handle and try the little guy out. :) I won't be felling any big trees with it, but it should be a great size to take camping.
This sounds interesting. I'm sure I will be loosing an hour looking at these posts :)
They did work, just shot logs all over the yard. Maybe I was swinging too hard.:)Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan82
Thank you for taking the time to show the process. I would like to see more of the steel guys show their work.
Wow ! Thats a nice looking blade. I Can't wait to try forging something , what's the metalurgy?
You'll have to find yourself a special piece of wood now !
Great work !
Thanks - the main part is mild steel with an O1 tool steel bit forge welded in place to form the cutting edge.Quote:
Originally Posted by Memk
Looking good Kris :tu
