Looking for suggestions: I've got a Carson mini scope, but hard to see through. I'm thinking of buying another model. A more traditional loop. What would you advise?
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Looking for suggestions: I've got a Carson mini scope, but hard to see through. I'm thinking of buying another model. A more traditional loop. What would you advise?
Look through these threads for some options.
http://straightrazorpalace.com/honin...p-options.html
http://straightrazorpalace.com/show-...magnifier.html
http://straightrazorpalace.com/begin...ver-spent.html
I have one of these on order https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
but I've been researching and thinking about a digital microscope that hooks up to my desktop computer.
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An achromatic triplet at around 10x works well for me in checking both the bevel and the edge. At $11, with a choice between black, gold, or chrome, this seems like a good deal:
Otto Frei 18mm Diameter - 10X - Triplet Loupes With Rubber Grip & Leather Case | OttoFrei.com.
I use the cheap 30-60x loupes from Amazon $2 ish each.
I will look at the links sent. Thanks. Yes, I know Amazon has dozens of such things. However, I'm interested in your experience with yours. A special concern is field of vision. I don't particularly like the Carson I have because the field of vision is so small and bounces around in my hand. I've seen those that look like they fit up in the eye. Those any good with focus and stability?
My eyes are a mess and I can use it with glasses needing bifocals. I like the metal teardrop ones. If I can't see I can use the 30x. I also have a good microscope that I can hook up to a computer but prefer the cheap loupe. I buy 3 or 4 at a time. Replacing them is easier than replacing the battery.
There are a few tricks to using the Carson Micro Max.
First is, there are 2 powers 100 or 60 not, from 60 to 100 power.
The top wheel, adjust which power you use, 100X is all the way one way, 60X is to the stop the other way.
Rest the scope on the razor with the scope resting on both the spine and the bevel. (Eyepiece over the bevel). Find the bevel, in the eyepiece and adjust the focus on the bevel. Once you focus on the bevel, lift the back end of the scope, so that the edge of the scope is, about a ¼ inch, off the spine. Make sure the scope is flat on the spine, not cocked to one side.
You can now examine the bevel and the edge, if you raise the back of the scope further you can look at the edge from about, 45 degrees’ angle and all the way up to 90 degrees to the edge, (Straight Down on the edge), 60X works best for looking at edges, because of the limited field of view.
The other thing to remember is the view is reversed, to move the field of view to the right, move the scope to the left.
It does take a little getting used to, but the 100X is very useful when looking at problem areas. First locate problems at 60X, then switch to 100X. it also helps to mark the bevel with a dot of sharpie ink, (when for example, removing a chip) to easily and quickly relocate the problem area.
Here is a post for making a foam protector for the Carson, that will protect the edge from digging into the plastic scope base. After a few uses, it will cut a notch in the foam, that will make locating the edge quick and easy.
(Show the World How You Modified Your Tools, post 78).
I just ordered this Triplet loop.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UC...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Good luck. Hopefully it's color-corrected (achromatic) in addition to spherical aberration as advertised. If it's a Hastings triplet, it should be.
I find 20x to be useful in checking the edge back-lit, so as to be in silhouette. Just be careful as you will be very close to the blade's edge in viewing. At that price, you could also pick up a lower magnification for bevel viewing by direct reflection--a decent triplet achromat in the 3x to 8x can be had for cheap in this regard. Something in the 8x to 14x range I mentioned above is a compromise, allowing both worlds (edge viewed in silhouette, bevel viewed by reflection from a key light source).
When to draw the line on micro-chipping, or the magnification revealing this, is a personal call. In the end, the shave test is the final arbiter.
I have the same scope and you've read my mind. Field of view is too small and it's hard to use at best and impossible to adjust with one hand.
i use a 4x and a 10x loop . i can see everything .