Got this from my brother-in-law. Looks nice. But is it worth the effort if refurbishing, hold it as a collector's piece, or should I sell it? http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/21/zedehese.jpg
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Got this from my brother-in-law. Looks nice. But is it worth the effort if refurbishing, hold it as a collector's piece, or should I sell it? http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/21/zedehese.jpg
Clean it up a LITTLE, Try and see if it will take and edge and if it does have at it!
Who makes this razor?
Any markings on the tang?
The last pic it says "Continental Cutlery Co." "Made for U.S.S...... " can't read the rest.
Not sure, but the scales look like ivory. They don't have that "plastic" feel.
I'd say "go for it"! It's always worth a try. You could have a real beauty on your hands, just waiting to be cleaned up...
:gl: Yeah it is hard to see right now. I would say the scales are bone. JMO....:gl:
Looks like our might be a nice looker when done!
I would say go ever it with some 600 (or highe) grit W/D and see how it looks then.
You should at least clean it up. As you start removing the active rust you may be surprised as to what is under it. The red rust seem to look worse than it actually is. It's the black stuff that you never can tell. You can start and then decide it is to deep or too much.
The scales are bone not ivory. I wouldn't spend too much time on it. The rust encompasses the edge which is bad news and it looks like there is substantial pitting. You can start sanding and see where it takes you however I'm not optimistic about it.
To be sure, it looks pretty bad... but it seems to me that it would be better to try, no? The most one loses is time, and the potential gain of a pretty new shaver cannot be ignored.
That being said, I don't restore (yet). I don't even hone. At what point does one say a once-was razor is now junk?
Would venture a guess the scales are celluloid and the blade has a major cell rot issue.
If it won't hone up. I think the last 2 cm at the toe are rotten through at the edge, which I fear cannot be salvaged. I once had a razor with one such spot at the edge and removed about 2 mm of steel from the edge before I could hone it up. Fortunately, there was enough meat on it :)
I stand corrected. Now I second this. Sorry, TBS.
Edit: Restore Rule #2
If in doubt, Set a clean even Bevel, if that isn't possible then there is no sense in continuing..
Use a well lit 30x or so loupe to check the bevel, if there is pitting continue to grind on a low grit stone and see if you get clean steel, if not then everything else is a total waste of time, material, and energy..
This razor right here is what DMT and Low grit (under 1k) hones are made for in razordom
Sorry I had to edit that hehehehe
Restore Rule #1 is my favorite "Rush a Restore, Wreck a Razor"
Give it a shot at cleaning. Worst case is you get some experieince on how the sand paper affects the blade. If it is trashed (as far as shaving goes) do some destructive testing on it. How much does it take to sand off the makers mark?
A while back i got this one:
Attachment 144020Attachment 144021
Then only hand sanding from 80 grit till 3000 and then some Mothers.
It turned out like this.
Attachment 144022Attachment 144023Attachment 144023
You never know what is under there.
The scales look like bone, to me.
The rust looks like rust, not rot. Rot seems to eat the metal that sits inside the scales tremendously, while the spine is usually spotted some.
I say clean it up, use it as a tool of discovery and learning. If it does clean up and take a clean edge, very well. If not, you have gained experience and a history piece.
Ya the blade is wonky,you can have this blade restored by a pro, pro honed, maybe end up with a 4/8.
spend 60/70 bux to have it done,than you have a razor worth maybe 20 bux, tops,that makes perfect sense:)
That was right after i had sanded it down to see what it looked like.
After that yes,the blade was not level so i again i used swaying back and forth on 220 grit sandpaper which worked out perfectly to even it out and then i honed it.
It is not at the top of my list like my Wade and butcher's but i got this one for 3$ so it was a great buy.
I have honed it and it is in my rotation,it is a Teague and son's.
I just don't have any pictures of the after photos.
I will take some pics and post them up in a few days.
I just put this up to show what they can look like after a little elbow grease.
Back soon with pics.
This thread and about 3 more just like it prompted me to start a new series of Tips:
http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...er-2013-a.html
Will be addressing issues like these as they arise
The pictures i put up were just to show that there could be something good under all that goo of a straight, didn't want to complicate any new people taking a look here.
But i did fix it up after so that it could be to my liking and shave good also.
After i saw that it didn't have too much pitting i fixed it up and did even it out,those were just the first photos.
I took off the black scales it had and made a set of wood finished it with shellac and evened it out an honed it.
This is what i made out of it and it does shave well.
Attachment 144117Attachment 144118
Considering it was this when it started up
Attachment 144119
Still great for the price i got it.
Thank you Pixelfixed.
I don't know too much about this company but it shaves ok not great.
But for 3$ it was part of my learning process on making scales shining up blades honing and all the rest.
It's rather pretty, like the lightish wood
The OP's razor doesn't look like yours. Your's has clean spots and the rust looks more surface like. The OP's seems to have a much heavier coating and it appears to go deep. He'll know soon enough when he begins.