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I have a Hart Steel razor that I honed and oiled with Camellia Oil and put into storage about 3 months ago. I got it out today to put back into my rotation and it appears the oil has dried up and left a scum on the razor. I tried a soft cloth and some alcohol but I cannot remove the scum. I thought about trying some super fine steel wool but I thought I would seek advice here first. This is a great shaving razor and I do not want to damage it. Any advice on how to remove the film?
I don't have any advice on removing the film, although I'm sure others will chime in. I can give an opinion on preventing this problem in the future. I stopped using all oils, even Renaissance Wax, about a year ago, have between 50 and 80 razors in various forms of storage and have never had a problem. I get them out every few months and give them a wipe, but most of them don't need it. I never saw a benefit from any oil application (other than to allay unnecessary fears) and so stopped using it. I do keep the razors in a dry environment. They only ever see the shave den for ten minutes at a time.
Maybe try some acetone (nail polish remover)? Although I'm not sure of the effect on the steel itself...
EDIT: I forgot to mention, if you do end up using acetone, keep it away from any wood scales or you'll risk discoloration (I messed up a DR Harris Bowl trying to get rid of the label's glue).
Cheers.
Soap and water should remove the scum. Sounds like you got a bad batch of Camelia oil.
1. Camilla oil is NOT a long term solution, in fact it is bad, anything more then 1 week is a risk depending on the oil.. (Please let somebody dispute this vehemently I enjoy the money I make from cleaning the razors) :)
2. Actetone and Razor cleaning is a dangerous option, it will destroy most scale materials
3. If it is over 1 month old, you are going to be hard pressed to get it off there (Please let somebody dispute this vehemently I enjoy the money I make from cleaning the razors) :)
4. Spray Brake Cleaner on a rag is the best option I have found to take it off, again be very careful around the scales..
5. If the cleaner will not remove it then you need a abrasive
Good Luck
If you have any DE or SE razor blades, use one to remove the bulk of the gunk. Then use hot water and soap & a LOT OF CARE as the edge under that gunk is still like you left it for the most part. Once you get it cleaned up, don't bother trying to shave with it, take it to your touch-up stone for a few passes. I found out the hard way too...
The spray brake cleaner on a rag like Glen mentioned works well, but please use the caution he stated as some plastics & celluloid may literally disappear under it into gunk.
I don't use Camellia oil, so I have never had this problem. Glen may be right.
Before Brake Fluid or an abrasive, you might try fighting oil with oil. I would try mineral oil and a Q-tip rubbing as your abrasive. Less likely to damage your scales.
Good Luck.
Just a thought but has anyone tried oven cleaner?
They make some safer/low odor, less volatile types?
Thanks for all the replies. I had a plumber in yesterday to fix a leaky pipe problem. He noticed the razors laying out and I told him about the residue problem. He suggested WD-40. I happened to have a can in the garage and it got all the gunk off the razor. It says on the label that it will remove grease, tar, grime, adhesives etc. I will take the advice and stop using camellia oil.
:p
WD-40 ya say, have heard that it is pretty good stuff for wiping down razors after shaving too :D
Honestly what you chose to use should be used to match the term of storage..
I have had to take a Dubl Duck 8/8 Goldedge to a buffing wheel to get some Camilla Oil residue off there, Started with trying WD-40 moved to the Brake cleaner and finally had to buff it off, so be careful with what you chose...
I use PB Blaster as a rust inhibitive, it IMO is better than WD-40, because it repels water, while WD-40 is penetrated by water. I have a couple of razors that I've not used in a long time, that have been wiped down with PB Blaster. They are blemish free, and I live in humid South Carolina.
I've used the stuff on razors, knives and tools, had no problems at all, no rust, no residue.
Not all Camellia oil is the same!
Hmmm...I always assumed that camellia oil was the ticket based on what I had read. I use the oil from SRD. I thought this was Camellia oil but it may not be. The SRD oil is described as a highly refined sterile lubricant. Not sure what it is. It is very light and holds up for the few days that I need it to. I have never stored razors long term with it. I'm reluctant to use oils such as WD-40 because I don't think they are good for the skin if there is any left on the blade. Anyway, if anyone knows what the SRD lubricant is, please let me know. If it is camellia, I wont use it for long term storage.
I have 6 other razors that have been out of circulation that have the same problem with the residue. Once I get them cleaned up I am will not be using the camellia oil for long term storage. I was worried about corrosion but this is not what I had in mind either. I may pick up some brake cleaner as suggested by glen to see if it is any easier to work with. I will have to figure out some way to store my razors while they are out of my daily rotation once I retire and move to the Pacific Northwest early next year. I suspect the salt air may be harder on them than the humidity we have here in Nebraska.
Coming up my way ????Quote:
Originally Posted by bbtech
and yes the humidity is noticeable :(
Glen, we are looking at some place on Whidbey Island in Washington. We love the weather and the pace of life on the island.
I have the same problem with camelia oil,wont use it again,has anybody used GooGone to clean residue off,not easy to remove,makes everything sticky.You dont know how old the camelia oil is,i thought the real stuff would not oxidise thats why its used,maybe we have got cheated.
Ever considered capitals, punctuation, full stops (periods), exclamation marks and other widely accepted methods of making written language more readily understood?Quote:
Originally Posted by adductum
Quote:
Originally Posted by UKRob
Sqzbxr post removed as inappropriate by moderator.
Ever considered the Oxford comma?Quote:
Originally Posted by UKRob
It also makes things more readily understood!
:)
Back on topic...
Plant based oils are NOT actually oils. They are fats, and as such are not stable. Sooner or later they will break down and make a mess on your razor and make your spaghetti taste bad.
sqzbxr,
I assume that in short order your post will be pulled. The statement you made to someone else could just as easily be directed back at you. This is a public forum and lazy writing that is difficult to read is just plain disrespectful to the rest of us...
in my opinion.
Why does trying to improve the quality of posts make me an *** - as you term it? I have been a member of this forum for quite some time and have a quantitive number of posts - many of which are marked as appreciated. If you want to criticise me, why not try doing it on something where you can demonstrate a greater amount of experience or critical faculty?Quote:
Originally Posted by sqzbxr
Rob kindly keep your temper from getting the better of you. Thanks,Quote:
Originally Posted by UKRob
Bob
Hey Rob,
What about that Oxford comma???
";"
I stopped using Camellia oil shortly after purchasing it .. for this very reason. There are much better options IMO!
Because it's a very debatable piece of punctuation. It tends to be more used in the USA than the UK - the New York Times insists upon it in its stylebook - however, it is not, generally, accepted as the norm over here.Quote:
Originally Posted by Utopian
In my opinion there should be no debate. When some components of a series include pairs of items joined with a conjunction, then it becomes very unclear which components are, and are not, parts of the series.
Below is just one of the sources explaining why it is needed for clarity.
Ooligan editors, per in-house style guide, always place a comma before the final item in a series of three or more items (typically preceding an and, an or, or a nor). This is called the Oxford comma or the serial comma. The Oxford comma has long been the subject of fierce and bloody debate among combatants in the usage wars.
Ooligan’s adoption of the Oxford comma is based on the recommendation of TheChicago Manual of Style—the style and usage Bible for non-journalistic writers (journalists follow the APStylebook suggestion to omit the serial comma, presumably to save space).
Oxford-haters say the serial comma is ugly and superfluous; most people outside of editors and academics don’t notice or care about the debated punctuation mark. So why should we use the Oxford comma, anyway? There are plenty of pro-comma arguments; take, for example, these humorous instances of ambiguity created by the lack of a serial comma:
“I’d like to thank my parents, Jesus and Oprah Winfrey.” (Besides suggesting that a child was born to Jesus and Oprah, the lack of a serial comma also implies that Jesus’s last name is Winfrey.)
“A notorious gambler, Charlie Sheen owed money to his ex-wives, Billy Bob Thornton and Hugh Grant.”
“This award is dedicated to my good friends, Young Jeezy and God.”
“…highlights of his global tour include encounters with Nelson Mandela, an 800-year-old demigod and a dildo collector.” (Note: this is a real example from The Times of London.)
From http://ooligan.pdx.edu/funny-usage-the-oxford-comma/
Quote:
Originally Posted by Utopian
Concur entirely; if lazy writing becomes too hard to read, I stop right there.
The reason for proper punctuation is to make it easier for others to understand what a poster is trying to say.
If the poster can't be bothered, why should I be bothered to read on?
Unless of course one wishes to consider the option that the poster just might not know any better... :-)
B.
I have camellia oil that I use from time to time but have found I am increasingly using it less and using Ballistol primarily. Great stuff and never a issue.
Interesting change of events this post has taken.....or might I say, taken away???? To the OP, I am glad you were able to get the residue off. Great advice here and certainly a variety of help as well. Overlook the egos, the internet is great for that.
Now for the incoming rocks!
Ballistol; my preferred choice as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael70
It was designed to protect metal (and more) and I need not worry about the oil gumming up.
B.
I bought a bottle of Camellia oil from SRD years ago , get better results from using Vaseline petroleum jelly works great with no residue great for guns also!
I have used Dawn dishwashing soap in hot water and it removes any oil. It is safe for the blade and scales. Just make sure to thoroughly rinse the razor and try it. I used very light oil to lubricate electric razors and that works very well. There is a silicone stray used for metal moving parts that also works well.
Today I realized that the camellia oil got all dry and sticky, very hard to remove.
I tried several things: ethanol, WD40, gasoline, oranol (citrus pressed oils I use for diluting tung oil), Ballistol, warm water with dishes' detergent. Nothing really worked. Water and detergent actually corroded the blade (very lightly) within 15 mins, so I would not recommend it.
I gave Ballistol another try and let it sit on a blade for eg 15 minutes and it helped soften the residues of camellia oil. Do not expect wonders but I'd recommend Ballistol.
I used camellia oil on cca 30 blades and it took me 4 hrs to clean them. The funny thing is that I've always used Ballistol but thought camellia oil might be better so I gave it a try :D...
I love my Ballistol. It works great for about anything we do in razor restoration, making & what have you. It is my favorite for strop restoration & is a great cutting oil for drilling. The list goes on!Quote:
Originally Posted by beluga
Slawman
I use 3M silicone spray which is wood and plastic neutral.
Another option for removing residual Camillia oil gunk and stickiness from blades or scales is Charlies Soap. Just spray it on or soak for a few minutes, scrub with a toothbrush, and the gunk is gone. I wouldn't let a blade soak for too long as it's water based. As others have said, brake cleaner works well too but should not go near scales.
This is yet another reason I don’t apply any oils to any of my blades, when I get razors in to hone I do apply a light coating of clipper oil and tell the owner to wipe and rinse clean before use, I am in the camp of not oiling blades and putting in storage
I'm with William, no oil for me except the silicone sleeves which live in an open Zip-Lock bag.
Everyday use razors in non-marine environments or in conditioned space generally don't need anything but to be clean and dry, though I seem to remember Oz (the person) being an exception.
For long-term storage, make sure that you clean and dry the razor with washed hands, no fingerprints, then slip them into a silicone sleeve.
Couple of cautions: the silicone in the sleeves may darken wooden scales, and given the scarcity of genuine ivory I'd probably avoid them for ivory, though I've had a test razor in one for a couple of years with no visible change. And if you paint anything, cars, furniture, cashew on your jnats, silicone contamination is a bad thing (it causes 'fisheyes') and is difficult to clean completely from a shop environment.
Cheers, Steve