Covered Tangs = Rust Magnets?

So...are covered tangs like the one on this gorgeous Henckels (photo borrowed from the Revisor "Raritäten" site) more susceptible to rust?

I assume the celluloid is applied with something that is impermeable to water, since it would be impossible to remove any moisture that managed to sneak between the steel and celluloid. I've seen similar tangs that have used dovetails instead of the pins seen here, but either construction style would seem to be potentially problematic if not perfectly executed.

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Originally Posted by Dzanda

So...are covered tangs like the one on this gorgeous Henckels...more susceptible to rust?

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I would think so; I remember reading about a rubber band that's placed on the tang of some razors (some ducks, I think it was) makes them susceptible to rust. I don't see why this'd be different.

I believe they they are attached with peened pins without adhesives. Yes they can be rust magnets under the covered tangs.

Bob

I've read that some folks remove the rubber grips from Dovo's "Bergischer Löwe" model for this reason.

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Originally Posted by DarthLord

I would think so; I remember reading about a rubber band that's placed on the tang of some razors (some ducks, I think it was) makes them susceptible to rust. I don't see why this'd be different.

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Well...that sux!

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Originally Posted by BobH

I believe they they are attached with peened pins without adhesives. Yes they can be rust magnets under the covered tangs.

Bob

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There are a couple of threads on here of some restores I have done on them that have the before pics, you would not believe what is under there :(

I will link them if I can dig them out

I wonder: is WD-40 safe for use with typical scale materials? If it is safe, using it as part of a preventive maintenance regimen might be helpful, since the "WD" stands for "Water Displacement". That would be a fairly simple means of getting/keeping water out from between the tang and its covering material. I imagine that WD-40 would have no trouble getting in there, since WD-40 is a penetrating oil and we're not talking about a really tightly fitted interface.

So how would you keep one from rusting if you did a restore on it?

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Originally Posted by jdoc

So how would you keep one from rusting if you did a restore on it?

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I dunno... dry shave?

I think they're attractive, but I've avoided them for just that reason.

oooooo dry shave! that does not sound like fun. Think a good coat of tuf-glide would help before putting the covers on?

WD40 sucks. Don't use it for razor maintenance. It also degreases. It'll just make the rust go faster if you don't provide a coating with oil immediately afterwards. The only way such covers would be safe, is if they are expoxied into place across the entire surface. And Generally, this is not the case.

http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...t-acrylic.html


Found one of them will search the others...

Edits:


And another

http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...gers-sons.html


And another

http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...e-friends.html


And another

http://straightrazorpalace.com/vendo...m-restore.html

I was only suggesting using WD-40 to displace moisture under a covered tang, not for general blade maintenance and such. Oiling would still be the way to go for the other metal.

Do you still consider WD-40 a non-starter if it's use was limited in that way?

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Originally Posted by Bruno

WD40 sucks. Don't use it for razor maintenance. It also degreases. It'll just make the rust go faster if you don't provide a coating with oil immediately afterwards. The only way such covers would be safe, is if they are expoxied into place across the entire surface. And Generally, this is not the case.

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So...what were your recommendations for the care of your beautiful restorations? Or do you trust the epoxy to prevent any future trouble? I'm sure you wouldn't want to see them suffer their original fates!

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Originally Posted by gssixgun

http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...t-acrylic.html


Found one of them will search the others...

Edits:


And another

http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...gers-sons.html


And another

http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...e-friends.html


And another

http://straightrazorpalace.com/vendo...m-restore.html

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Yes these are completely sealed with the epoxy, after seeing what goes on under there first hand that is the only way I would do it...

I have used wd40 on razors for years with no ill effects.. There are literally dozens of "Rust Prevention Tests" that are available in seconds by using Google, mostly done by Gun Enthusiasts and Boat guys..
Search them out and do some reading..

Two things I have noted by reading many of them over the years

1. The product that the Author likes/owns will always win
2. WD-40 is always in the test and always scores rather high

This is a beautiful razor and I am betting a superb shaver!

No need for previous links .

The main thing here is to not get any water on the tang if possible. When you are shaving with this and all razors, only rinse the blade or wipe the lather off the blade with a towel being careful not to get the tang wet. This is no different than those that get water on and in the scales or handle. It is really hard to thoroughly dry the inside of the scales, particularly when they are made of natural materials and any moisture remaining will cause staining and eventually rusting on the blade, tang and into the hinge pin. A little extra care here goes a long way.

Have fun.

Back in the 1970s a big thing in cars was a vinyl top cover. After a few years if you removed the vinyl know what the metal lookled like? Har har. Sometimes things are done with design in the drivers seat and practicality and good sense are in the trunk.

Covered tangs look nice. You just have to be extra careful with water.