Anyone feel that shave quality diminished after Tuf Glide use?

I decided to give Tuf Glide a chance, and picked up a tuf cloth and a needle applicator. I am using one drop on the pivot, and rubbing the treated tuf cloth on the blade. After the product dries, I give a quick wipe with tissue to remove any excess, and I store. Pretty much the routine I have seen most others use.

When I take the razor out for use, I run the blade under hot water, and wipe off with tissue. Then I do my normal stropping routine. Here is where it gets strange...

It may be my imagination, but it seems that the blades I have treated this way do not shave as well as they did prior. Blades that were damn near perfect shavers seem as if they are dulled to the point of tugging. I am fairly certain that the product isn't hurting the blade, but is it possible that there is residual tuf glide on the edge that is making the shave less than perfect? I have never had this problem with my old routine of plain old razor oil.

Any ideas? This has happened with the three blades I have used tuf glide on, so I seem to think that either the product, my application of it, or the removal is what is causing the issue. I do not believe that I am dulling the edge with my use of the cloth itself, as it is no different than when I use a towel to wipe my blade between passes. Any and all suggestions or comments are welcome.

I used Tuf Glide for over a year and never noticed any issues.

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Originally Posted by CastSteel

I used Tug Glide for over a year and never noticed any issues.

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So did you do anything special to remove it from your blade prior to shaving?

Nothing special, I used a tissue to remove the Tuf Glide prior to stropping.

I only use Tuf Glide. For 4 years and never had an issue. Its by far my favorite anti-rust lubricant I've used.

OK, so maybe I just am having a bad shaving week, or perhaps it is my imagination.

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Originally Posted by CastSteel

I used Tug Glide for over a year and never noticed any issues.

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I store my blades in razor socks with some Tuf-Glide drops on the pivot area.

Prior to that, I would put some on the blade and pivot, came recommended from Classic Edge Shaving, and I've never had any issue with it...simply wipe rinse if off and you're fine. It's a mineral oil, as opposed to a carbon based oil, which can be bad for carbon based blades, "like dissolves like", type of thing.

Every blade I own 140+ gets a drop on each blade side I'll run my finger down the entire blade edge & tang to spread out and to remove all excess.

Not sure about tuff glide, but most polishes will take out an edge, which is why polishing should be done before honing.

My vote goes in the "I don't think so" category. I treat a new or freshly honed razor with Tuf-Glide on the blade and the pivot. Like Phrank I keep them in the silicone-cotton razor sleeves and longer term in VCI Gun Socks & simply take them out and strop. Doesn't seem to affect the edge at all. I suppose it's possible that you could dull the blade a little if you cut the tissue used in the two wipings. Paper is very hard on an edge, tissue probably less so.



rs,
Tack

I use it too - never had any issues with it and it's the best anticorrosion stuff out there (IMHO).

-john

It's my go to rust prevention, never had a problem.

I recently started using Tuff-glide.Amazing stuff. I take a tuff-glide protected blade and I wipe the blade with 91% Isopropyl alcohol on a papertowel. Then I strop and shave. I get an amazing shave. reapply alcohol ,dry , strop, tuff-glide and store. Sleep well at night with this routine. IMHO

Don't forget to saturate the used paper towel with water to fight spontaneous combustion in the trash can.........:gl:

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Originally Posted by rbaker2778

OK, so maybe I just am having a bad shaving week, or perhaps it is my imagination.

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____________

Rob

The story goes that TufGlide is used by the Navy Seals to protect their equipment. I hope it's not just a story.

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Originally Posted by mrsell63

Don't forget to saturate the used paper towel with water to fight spontaneous combustion in the trash can.........:gl:

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I thought you rubbed the used papertowel on your face to ensure razor burn:rofl2:

How hot must you get a razor before it will burn?? :rofl2:

I use it as I ready a blade and before honing. Never apply again! Stuff protects the blade for many years, IME. I have not ever applied it to the bevel and then shaved. I use only the strop to keep the bevel clean. I have heard any oil on the bevel will effect shave. I just would not know. :shrug:

If I'm storing a blade, it will get a coating of Tuf-Glide, other than that, I'll put a drop or two on the pivot area of the razor once to protect that area, then that's it, the razor get's stored in a razor sock.

I would never coat the blade with it and then strop, it will contaminate the leather.

As JimmyHAD has told me, repeatedly: dry the razor after use, then immediately strop it, and only then apply however many drops of Tuf-Glide to the blade, prior to storing it. This way, the blade has been made once again "shave ready" for the next time and the metal protected. When you next want to shave with it, all that is necessary in the way of preparation is to wipe-off any residual Tuf-Glide, lather/prep your beard, and tally-HO! Of course, JimmyHAD was wrong once before... :)

While I've never used Tuff Glide, I do oil my blades after shaving and I use Ballistol. Since it's 'today' and not the days gone by I take advantage of modern connivance's like 'electricity' to help dry my blades. I use liquid dish soap to remove any residue from the blade as I've found that many shaving soaps do leave a residue/if you don't believe me just rinse your blade as normal then while it's wet slide your fingers up and down the blade, then apply a drop of the dish soap to each side apply some water and work it in, then rinse again and I do believe that you will then find the blade 'squeaky clean' :w

Back to drying the blade. After the washing I dry the blade with a towel then use a blow dryer to make sure any moisture is gone from the edge and blade in general. I try to do the same at the pivot but very carefully as I don't want to get so much heat as to affect the scales.

After a couple of minutes I apply a drop of the Ballistol and use a piece of toilet paper to coat the blade and edge.

When I'm ready to shave, I rinse the Ballistol off with hot tap water, then wipe the blade dry, strop and shave.

This works for me, perhaps it will work for you. :shrug:

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Originally Posted by cudarunner

While I've never used Tuff Glide, I do oil my blades after shaving and I use Ballistol. Since it's 'today' and not the days gone by I take advantage of modern connivance's like 'electricity' to help dry my blades. I use liquid dish soap to remove any residue from the blade as I've found that many shaving soaps do leave a residue/if you don't believe me just rinse your blade as normal then while it's wet slide your fingers up and down the blade, then apply a drop of the dish soap to each side apply some water and work it in, then rinse again and I do believe that you will then find the blade 'squeaky clean' :w

Back to drying the blade. After the washing I dry the blade with a towel then use a blow dryer to make sure any moisture is gone from the edge and blade in general. I try to do the same at the pivot but very carefully as I don't want to get so much heat as to affect the scales.

After a couple of minutes I apply a drop of the Ballistol and use a piece of toilet paper to coat the blade and edge.

When I'm ready to shave, I rinse the Ballistol off with hot tap water, then wipe the blade dry, strop and shave.

This works for me, perhaps it will work for you. :shrug:

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I think I'm going to give that a try...usually I rinse my blade after a shave in running hot water, then dry with a tissue and let air dry, then strop and store in a razor sock. Next time I'm going to check out the residue point you've made - it wouldn't surprise me with left over residue...can't hurt and squeaky clean is the way to go....definitely worth a try! Thanks!

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Originally Posted by Phrank

I think I'm going to give that a try...usually I rinse my blade after a shave in running hot water, then dry with a tissue and let air dry, then strop and store in a razor sock. Next time I'm going to check out the residue point you've made - it wouldn't surprise me with left over residue...can't hurt and squeaky clean is the way to go....definitely worth a try! Thanks!

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Let us know how it goes as I've said it works for me and perhaps it will work for you also :shrug:

I use Tuf Glide ever since it was introduced to me & I have never had a problem with it. After a shave I blow any excess water out with canned air used on computers & I will lube the pivot pin with Tuf Glide & wipe any excess off with a clean rag & it works great. It is used by Navy Seals so if it wasn't a good product, they wouldn't even use it. It goes on wet but then turns into a dry lubricant so I don't see how it could affect the cutting edge of a blade. It dissipates water also. You can buy it from some vendors like Classic Shaving or from the manufacturer Gun Cleaning, Knife Care, Gun Care, Lubrication & Corrosion Protection, Rust Stopper, Oil-Free, Sentry Solutions. In my opinion it is the best lube you can buy for razors, knives, firearms & more. I have been recommending it to people on here whenever I get the chance to. You can't go wrong with this product!

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Originally Posted by Phrank

I store my blades in razor socks with some Tuf-Glide drops on the pivot area.

Prior to that, I would put some on the blade and pivot, came recommended from Classic Edge Shaving, and I've never had any issue with it...simply wipe rinse if off and you're fine. It's a mineral oil, as opposed to a carbon based oil, which can be bad for carbon based blades, "like dissolves like", type of thing.

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Mineral oil is a carbon based oil.

I have heard of "like dissolves like" but I don't know how a carbon based oil could pull carbon out of steel. Is there any evidence of that? To be clear, I'm not challenging the suggestion, I'd just like to understand it.

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Originally Posted by Utopian

Mineral oil is a carbon based oil.

I have heard of "like dissolves like" but I don't know how a carbon based oil could pull carbon out of steel. Is there any evidence of that? To be clear, I'm not challenging the suggestion, I'd just like to understand it.

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I understand that Tuf-Glide is a mineral spirit, if that makes a difference.

Generally when I get a new razor, I'll put a drop or two on the pivot pin area, then into a silicone treated razor sock (SRD sells them as, "sack-ups) and store. That's the last I ever use Tuf-Glide on the razor again.

From my understanding, the razor sock alone would probably all you'd need to store a properly dried razor.

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Originally Posted by Phrank

I understand that Tuf-Glide is a mineral spirit, if that makes a difference.

Generally when I get a new razor, I'll put a drop or two on the pivot pin area, then into a silicone treated razor sock (SRD sells them as, "sack-ups) and store. That's the last I ever use Tuf-Glide on the razor again.

From my understanding, the razor sock alone would probably all you'd need to store a properly dried razor.

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Razor sock protects and absorbs moisture. Tufglide has microparticles that adhere to the metal. It is a brave new world , Both aforementioned products where originally produced for firearms application. Sock for absorbency of moisture & repellent of salty air. Per the bottle of Tufglide "used by Navy Seals"
to coat moving parts and protect against corrosion. If you think its hard to remove Tufglide before a shave the other option removal of Renaissance wax is a worse option. IMHO

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Originally Posted by ultrasoundguy2003

Razor sock protects and absorbs moisture. Tufglide has microparticles that adhere to the metal. It is a brave new world , Both aforementioned products where originally produced for firearms application. Sock for absorbency of moisture & repellent of salty air. Per the bottle of Tufglide "used by Navy Seals"
to coat moving parts and protect against corrosion. If you think its hard to remove Tufglide before a shave the other option removal of Renaissance wax is a worse option. IMHO

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Good to know...I knew about the firearms applications, but the rest of what you've mentioned is new info...thanks.

And hard to remove is exactly why I just put a drop or two, once, on the pivot pin area...even though I make sure I air dry my blades for an hour or so after use...that's an area that you don't want moisture.

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Originally Posted by Phrank

Good to know...I knew about the firearms applications, but the rest of what you've mentioned is new info...thanks.

And hard to remove is exactly why I just put a drop or two, once, on the pivot pin area...even though I make sure I air dry my blades for an hour or so after use...that's an area that you don't want moisture.

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Andrew, I knew it was used by the Navy Seals. If you go to their website, it says so. This subject came up awhile back because the member in post #1 who started this thread, claimed that after using it, his blades weren't as sharp as they were before he used it. He apparently encountered something else because this stuff does work & as you know it works very well. When I air dry my razors I try to use the canned air for computers.
Gun Cleaning, Knife Care, Gun Care, Corrosion Protection, Lubrication, Rust Stopper, Oil-Free, Sentry Solutions

With steal maintenance, in general we should think of three concerns: Cleaning, Lubricating, and Preserving/Preventing rust. So far, there is no one dominant product on the market that does all three better than anything else. Fortunately we're razor nerds, and really only concerned with Preservation/Prevention. And with this concern in mind, there is a clear-cut, consumer tested best product.

Eezox my friends.

Eezox. Spray on. Wipe off. Forget about it until you hone it again. Repeat.

A good read on rust prevention: a not-so-little rust prevention test: round 2

NOTE: But not with celluloid scales (Eezox makes HCl in reaction with nitric acid :nono:)

A lot of gun guys and knife guys have been using Eezox over other products (including Tuf-Glide) as a steel preservative for years. Google "Tuf-Glide vs Eezox" and there is a battery of head to head tests conducted by consumers.

How about a hair dryer on low heat to dry the blade & hinge pin off??

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Originally Posted by Slawman

How about a hair dryer on low heat to dry the blade & hinge pin off??

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I think that I talked about your question here at post #21:

http://straightrazorpalace.com/razor...ml#post1376260

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Originally Posted by mrsell63

How hot must you get a razor before it will burn?? :rofl2:

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I just read that the auto ignition temp for some celuloid is 165c. This may or may not be accurate however the wuestion posed would require some clarification as to materials and if the razor was the thing burning or whether the objective were to burn something with a hot razor (human skin starts to burn at around 111 degrees farenheit)

Tuff Glide rocks. Use it, What is worse, rust or your perceived lack of sharpness?
How does Oil and Steel not go together??
In all my years Oil and Steel always get along good.
Get out of my Head. Not sharp,
How much not sharp??

I have used Balistol for years with no issues. Great stuff