Custom Straight - What to look for/Questions to ask

One of our local knifemakers has made one or two straights and I'm looking at purchasing one from him.

His initial drawing was of a Kamisori type grind but after asking for a symmetrical grind, he's come up with something I like.

However, as a SR novice and never having purchased a custom before (and him being specifically a knifemaker) are there any questions that I need to ask to find out whether it is in fact suitable for shaving. Or is there anything that I need to look out for, as I don't want to end up with an expensive ornament. :D

BTW, the steel used for the blade is N690 Stainless and the scales are Diamond wood.

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Tony there will be people to comment I know. I would be hesitant if they (the knifemaker) has no real idea of a straight razor geometry; types of grinds; and setting/creating bevels; and so on.

They may be a great knife maker but a razor artisan I think is a bit different. Then again, I could be wrong but from what I have read and seen in post and unless they are trained in straight razor making too, I would be leary.

I'd check the spine width to blade height to make sure the bevel angle is right. I wonder if the way the spine curves down before the blade ends at the heel the blade ends would make honing a little difficult. Anyway no expert just a guess.

Bob

I haven't seen the blade in person but from the picture, the spine does look a little wavy.

Fortunately I haven't committed to anything but I will be going to see it over the weekend at a knifemakers show, he's exhibiting at.

The blade you posted is nice as far as looks but I have found that looks unfortunately does not mean a great shaver. Then again, they may be accomplished at making razors for all I know. Like I said, I am sure you will get a lot of useful insight on what to ask and then you can gauge from the maker if they know what they are doing or not from their response.

Good luck.

Take a look at some vintage SRs and I think you will see that the spine width is uniform till after the cutting edge of the blade ends at the heel. As you are going to check it out just see if it will sit flat on the hone or not.

Bob

Agree with others, and not to rain on the parade, but SRs are very personal, and if this knife-maker has made only a few, he may be excellent or he may not. Depending on the price, it might be fun to try, or even better to try if he'll give you a trial run. Otherwise, in spite of the interesting looks of it, I'd pass.

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Originally Posted by BobH

I'd check the spine width to blade height to make sure the bevel angle is right. I wonder if the way the spine curves down before the blade ends at the heel the blade ends would make honing a little difficult. Anyway no expert just a guess.

Bob

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Absolutely!!!! I bought a custom straight that was made by a knife maker and the blade / spine ratio was totally wrong. It would have needed in excess of 10 layers of tape to build up the spine to hone it. It looked very pretty but in reality, it was a very expensive letter opener. It was certainly an expensive lesson that I'll never forget.

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Originally Posted by johnmrson

Absolutely!!!! I bought a custom straight that was made by a knife maker and the blade / spine ratio was totally wrong. It would have needed in excess of 10 layers of tape to build up the spine to hone it. It looked very pretty but in reality, it was a very expensive letter opener. It was certainly an expensive lesson that I'll never forget.

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I would have to agree!

Thanks for the feedback Gents. Appreciated!

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Originally Posted by Thug

Thanks for the feedback Gents. Appreciated!

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You're very welcome Tony! Good luck.

Yeah spine to blade size ratio is very important I know my Filarmonica 8/8 as a spine thickness a tad over 5mm the width of the spine dictates the bevel setting angle, to acute and you start to develop a fragile edge to thick and the total opposite applies.

In normal cases you should not worry about the bevel angle. All "modern" razors (roughly from the 1930's till now, probably even earlier) are produced with a bevel angle between 15 and 20 degrees, centering around 17.
Where that angle comes from, I don't know, but it seems safe to assume that the manufacturers found with vast trial and error that an angle in this range delivers the best shave qualities/durability.

No one has come right out and said it...
The spine to blade width ratio needs to be between 3.5 and 4.0 to 1, so you can ask the maker what his measurements are on this blade.

Regardless, the flared spine width at the heel is going to cause problems unless you always hone and strop at an extreme angle.

Ask the maker if HE can shave his entire face, not a couple of arm hairs, with the razor.

If you want a really nice custom straight razor, get one from Bruno.

So basically the things to look out for/question:

- Ensure that the Spine is uniform along its entire length
- Ensure that the Spine/Blade ratio is approx 3.5/4 : 1
- Grind away the flared heel to ensure uniformity along the entire spine/blade.

Exactly the type of info I was looking for.

Thanks!

As many people already pointed out the thickness of the spine increasing over the last one inch (and corresponding decrease of the blade width) is a very serious problem that affects the function of the razor.

It will be extremely difficult to put an edge on the last 1/3"-3/4" of the blade towards the heel because of this variation. The bevel angle on that portion will vary depending on how you angle the razor on the hone, which means that it is not possible to execute repeated strokes at the exact same bevel - something critical for producing a razor-sharp edge.
Of course, for a typical knife it doesn't matter because they can be honed free-hand to knife-sharp.

Such a serious flaw indicates inexperience and lack of understanding at what makes razor different from a knife - reason to definitely stay away from such custom razor even if the execution is otherwise flawless.

With time, the knife maker may figure it out and start making razors, but right now he is far from it and is only making knives.
Do not pay for a knife the premium that a razor commands over it, but if you want a knife shaped to resemble a razor, and priced accordingly, it may be just fine.

I have to agree that looks don't equate to a good razor, but I do admire anyone that goes to the effort to at least try. Maybe tell the maker about SRP, there is a wealth of information here on how to get it right.

Another give away that a razor maker is new to the game is how the tang is shaped, usually sides running parallel with no taper front to back. On a vintage SR the tang tapers front to back. Something I failed to notice until there was a long thread on here about that and why it is. It works in conjunction with with the wedge, not a flat spacer, at the toe end of the scales. SRs do not open and close like a folding knife but knife makers turned SR makers think they do. I would have thought so too if I had not read the thread on here and took a closer look at my SRs.

Bob

See: http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...mechanics.html

I agree with Gugi on the spine, that’s a big issue and it will probably be difficult to put an edge on it. It may be the photo, but the edge does not look straight. I would like to see the bevel under magnification, at least 100X, it is so small it had to be honed free hand or on a sharpening jig.

Look at the edge, to make sure it has a shave ready edge. This is where a lot of knife guys have an issue, is producing a shavable razor edge, for all the reasons stated, aggressive grinding and improper heat treatment.

And aesthetically the crooked and uneven grind on the spine really bothers me, more as a quality control issue that the maker is calling finished.

There are many custom razor makers to choose from or countless vintage razors with proven performance and style. It is interesting how many folks think that a razor is just a thin knife with a folding handle. A razor must first be functional.

Yea, I too would pass on this purchase.

Yes I am no expert of the geometry for sure; I just know it is not a knife like one poster stated. There is more to making a razor than making it "look" like a razor. You may be better off buying a nice Ralf Aust if this is your first or similar razor that is made by a company that has been doing so for close to or better than a century now!

I say a German made may be your best first because they (the Germans) seem to be great razor builders for sure! I have yet to have a bad German razor whether my Dovo; Boker; or Ralf Aust!

Just food for thought my friend. If you do look to custom or semi-custom I do have a PRC I had somewhat customized to my liking and while being a USA built razor the guys at PRC, Scott & Hunter know how to build a nice razor for a very good price!

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Originally Posted by Michael70

Yes I am no expert of the geometry for sure; I just know it is not a knife like one poster stated. There is more to making a razor than making it "look" like a razor. You may be better off buying a nice Ralf Aust if this is your first or similar razor that is made by a company that has been doing so for close to or better than a century now!

I say a German made may be your best first because they (the Germans) seem to be great razor builders for sure! I have yet to have a bad German razor whether my Dovo; Boker; or Ralf Aust!

Just food for thought my friend. If you do look to custom or semi-custom I do have a PRC I had somewhat customized to my liking and while being a USA built razor the guys at PRC, Scott & Hunter know how to build a nice razor for a very good price!

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I have a couple of Henckels that I managed to pick up locally but seeing that we are so far removed from the rest of the world, I have to look at alternative means of supply.

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Originally Posted by Thug

I have a couple of Henckels that I managed to pick up locally but seeing that we are so far removed from the rest of the world, I have to look at alternative means of supply.

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Totally understand. I assume shipping too costly or is it a customs issue???

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Originally Posted by Michael70

Totally understand. I assume shipping too costly or is it a customs issue???

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The major problem is the uncertainty of actually receiving the goods due to sticky fingers at our international mail centre. Kind of like, once bitten, twice shy!

My thought process was then to perhaps acquire a locally produced custom razor knowing that I would receive it.

If that doesn't work out which is now a distinct possibility because of what I've learned through this thread, I'll have to import utilising a courier service. At least I can then be certain of receiving the goods, albeit at a price premium.

Well I guess someone would then get a good shave.

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Originally Posted by Thug

The major problem is the uncertainty of actually receiving the goods due to sticky fingers at our international mail centre. Kind of like, once bitten, twice shy!

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Most postal systems offer registered service, which is tracked along the way, stays locked while in storage, must be signed for by the postal workers, and by the recipient on arrival. Even here in US I get valuable packages registered and insured as even if it's rare things still get lost.

So I went to the knife show and to my surprise there was another knifemaker displaying Straight Razors.

This one had designed his blades perfectly. The 6/8" and 8/8" were both half hollow grinds but both razors were finished off with diamond paste and hadn't seen a hone.

Lovely to feel and look at but not for facial hair removal unless you are prepared to reset the bevel and hone from scratch.

Prices were approximately USD300.

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$300 will buy at least 2 and possibly 3 very nice vintage razors of outstanding reputation and quality. Check the classifieds.

There are a lot of knife guys who think and have said, the market for razors is ripe for picking.

Buy wisely…

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Originally Posted by Euclid440

$300 will buy at least 2 and possibly 3 very nice vintage razors of outstanding reputation and quality. Check the classifieds.

There are a lot of knife guys who think and have said, the market for razors is ripe for picking.

Buy wisely…

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[emoji106]

My thoughts exactly!

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Originally Posted by Euclid440

$300 will buy at least 2 and possibly 3 very nice vintage razors of outstanding reputation and quality. Check the classifieds.

There are a lot of knife guys who think and have said, the market for razors is ripe for picking.

Buy wisely…

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Unfortunately I found this out too late recently....the SR looked like it had been attacked with a Dremel in a couple of places!!:(
The guy DID state he had "...just introduced our own straight razor, with styling from the likes of T------ and W---& B------"
Maybe he can put a great edge on a Buck knife.....but, IMHO, he has a LOT to learn about honing a straight!! Not a happy camper here!!:mad:
But...not to worry....I have a new Ralf Aust 5/8 from SRD....so all's good!!:)

Close shaves should SOOTHE ya.....NOT SCARE ya!!

One of the things about custom SRs from knife makers turned SR makers I have always wondered about was the design of the blades and in some cases the scales too. Why take the classic SR form and try to make it resemble a Klingon Bat'leth? :shrug: :gaah:

Bob

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Originally Posted by BobH

One of the things about custom SRs from knife makers turned SR makers I have always wondered about was the design of the blades and in some cases the scales too. Why take the classic SR form and try to make it resemble a Klingon Bat'leth? :shrug: :gaah:

Bob

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So true Bob, also knife makers turned razor makers always try new steel , when the common ones work really well. Don't kick the sleeping dog!

Jack Connan does shave with straights

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Originally Posted by AndreGrobler

Jack Connan does shave with straights

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Those were his I posted pictures of earlier in the thread. Great looking razors.

Yes i believe so, just wished to clarify that he is a user too

Those just brought back some memories ! My early days of razor making and i have learnt a fair bit since then ! Thank you to guys like Tony Thug that weren't scared to point me in the right direction