Why is one straight Razor better than others?

I have found myself wondering why one straight razor is better than others?

I know that there are generally junk razors from manufacturers using cheap material but I am not referring to them. I am referring to Ralf Aust, Dovo, Thiers-Issard, Boker Straight, and those in that category. I know that scale material and design can make a price difference and thickness/width of blades can also determine price and prefferance but what about material?

Is the forging processes different, is each razor from each manufacturer different from another? I am sure some amount of personal preference comes into play here kind of like the brand of oil someone religiously uses, or the favorite pistol one chooses to carry. Why do some enthusiasts prefer one brand of straight razor over another? Is it just the name, or is there more in play?

Welcome aboard jrudd,

You asked a lot of good questions in one post, so to help get you on the right track, make sure you have read these links.

Many good razors go through our "classifieds" section, above. Also we have several good custom razor makers here that are members. You really can't go wrong with any of these two options. Just try to stay away from the razors that you will read about in the links.

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Assuming that razors are all equally honed, then there are only very marginal differences between the shaving ability of hundreds of razors from quality makers. The biggest difference is probably down to individual preferences like size, weight, grind, blade shape etc etc.

I agree with John here it is probably more ergonomics, different size hands might suit different tangs, different blades might suit different faces. Though with that being said it is also quite personal, how I hold a razor may be different from someone else.

It may have seemed like a stupid question to some, but I ask a lot of questions. I suppose I will have a preference most likely to one of the first few razors I try out due to the fact that I probably wont have a huge collection of razors to try in the near future. I will most likely either lean towards or stay away from my first razor with that decision made subconsciously after I process my first few experiences with it.

I do have a small collection of razors, Cheap Gold Dollar, which I don't much care for, a Ralf Aust 5/8 bare boned model, a Vintage winchester, and a vintage Dovo. I am only using one right now until I can get that perfect shave.

In your question you can not answer unequivocally, all individually. A lot of factors there.:thinking:

I am guessing here but I think the difference is in the grind and the temper of the steel. One will just seem better sometimes :shrug:

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Originally Posted by jrudd

It may have seemed like a stupid question to some, but I ask a lot of questions. I suppose I will have a preference most likely to one of the first few razors I try out due to the fact that I probably wont have a huge collection of razors to try in the near future. I will most likely either lean towards or stay away from my first razor with that decision made subconsciously after I process my first few experiences with it.

I do have a small collection of razors, Cheap Gold Dollar, which I don't much care for, a Ralf Aust 5/8 bare boned model, a Vintage winchester, and a vintage Dovo. I am only using one right now until I can get that perfect shave.

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A perfect shave will take some time to achieve (call it 100 shaves). Having said that, you will begin to lean towards a type of razor as you try a few out...it may be based on how it feels in the hand, or the audible feedback....perhaps how the blade feels on the skin. I actually dialed in my favorite feel fairly early after trying perhaps a dozen or so razors. I like all kinds generally and appreciate different attributes...but there are a couple I have a few of because they just work so effortlessly for me. it is certainly different for everyone. I do try to just shave with as many as I can, and I definitely have a wide variety of widths and grinds....keeps me on my toes!

Of the brands you mention I would say that it comes down to the quality of grind. Now this may not make a great deal of difference when shaving - assuming all are honed to a similar level - but when it comes to things like re-honing, that's when a better quality grind will become apparent. Those four manufacturers all have razors in similar price ranges - sometimes Thiers Issard will produce a premium or limited edition razor and dress it in different scales, but the blade itself is probably no different to the thousands of others they produce.

What I really don't understand is why they use nails instead of rod for peening. Not only do they look cheap, they do not work as effectively when it comes to having to tighten a blade that's worn loose.

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Originally Posted by UKRob

What I really don't understand is why they use nails instead of rod for peening. Not only do they look cheap, they do not work as effectively when it comes to having to tighten a blade that's worn loose.

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I imagine it's just a matter of speed in production. just a few taps and it's done. I agree though not as good as using a rod.

Well, there’s your problem… the perfect shave is more about technique, shaving and maintenance than the razor itself, though the razor always gets the blame. Both will improve with time and experience.

All the brands you mentioned are good razors of similar quality that will hold an edge and shave well, with exception of the GD and even that can be made to shave. For most, vintage have more attention to detail, are aesthetically nicer finished and a better value. But all will shave and for the novice, the difference in performance will be minimal or nonexistent.

I own several hundred razors and shave with all brands, grinds, shapes, styles and sizes that cross my bench, really they all shave about the same. How they look and feel in the hand is a whole other matter that you will just have to experience. Three of the razors in your collection should be excellent shavers, capable of a “perfect shave”.

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Originally Posted by Euclid440

Well, there’s your problem… the perfect shave is more about technique, shaving and maintenance than the razor itself, though the razor always gets the blame. Both will improve with time and experience.

All the brands you mentioned are good razors of similar quality that will hold an edge and shave well, with exception of the GD and even that can be made to shave. For most, vintage have more attention to detail, are aesthetically nicer finished and a better value. But all will shave and for the novice, the difference in performance will be minimal or nonexistent.

I own several hundred razors and shave with all brands, grinds, shapes, styles and sizes that cross my bench, really they all shave about the same. How they look and feel in the hand is a whole other matter that you will just have to experience. Three of the razors in your collection should be excellent shavers, capable of a “perfect shave”.

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I agree with Euclid440's post, but would like to add that it should be no surprise that razors made of the best material by the best craftsmen shave better than those makers who cut some corners for whatever reason. My examples of razors that shave better than most are my between-the-wars Bokers and Le Grelots, and my '60s and early '70s vintage Japanese razors, especially the Tanifujis. That said, are they worth more based solely on shaving performance? YMMV, the difference is discernible to me but maybe not to others.

Cheers, Steve

If you are talking vintage German for instance most outfits bought the steel and blanks from just a handful of outfits and in fact bought the scales the same way so there isn't much difference there. It may be the final assembly process or the way that razor suits you. There are many variables at play.

There are a class of razors that cut across all brands and grinds and they are uber superb shavers way above the rest. They are rare, very rare and many think they have one but really don't. Talk to the experienced guys here who know. Why those razor are like that is a mystery. Probably perfection from beginning to end of the fabrication.

I have noticed a few, for whatever reason, hone exceptionally well and the rest are high quality. I'm not sure if it's the steel, attention to detail, craftsmanship, ect. I just know that a handful have been a tick above the rest.

Like elucid said all those brands are quality but I have had seven or eight Winchesters and all have been dead on "geometry wise". Of course, I'm partial to American made.

I tend to shave with my older Wade & Butchers & Genco's more that any of my other razors. I like the bigger W&B's the best. The Genco's are just as good but I like the feel of the W&B's better.

Slawman:tu

I started out with hollow ground razors. good names and honed well. My tec. however lacked some. the more I shave the better I got. angle was the main culprit. But after saying that I need to say this. each person has there favorite. I like the stiffer blades. wedges, near wedges, 1/4 hollow and so on. for me the extra hollow seems to skip . I believe that if the angle is not right the blade flex's and there is the problem. So on your journey to shaving bliss try them all if possible. A friend of mine once told me he had many favorites all for different reasons.

Some of the answers in this thread are, unintentionally, hilarious. Suffice it to say that quality of steel has never been a problem with Solingen razors, and that it took an apprentice four years to learn just to properly polish a razor back then. For the chuckles, ask your favourite search engine about "Hugo Herkenrath".

Seriously, guys, you crack me up sometimes.

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Originally Posted by rhensley

I started out with hollow ground razors. good names and honed well. My tec. however lacked some. the more I shave the better I got. angle was the main culprit. But after saying that I need to say this. each person has there favorite. I like the stiffer blades. wedges, near wedges, 1/4 hollow and so on. for me the extra hollow seems to skip . I believe that if the angle is not right the blade flex's and there is the problem. So on your journey to shaving bliss try them all if possible. A friend of mine once told me he had many favorites all for different reasons.

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I'm the exact same way. I started out with extra hollow German razors. Every shave was full of skipping blades followed by countless cuts.

Once I switched to heavier stiffer blades, the shaves actually became smooth and enjoyable.

The steel Scottish facial hair may have something to do with it though.

I would venture to say that aside from razor shaped objects, Any properly honed razor is capable of giving you a great shave more so than your ability to repeat the exact conditions of a shave with any other razor you imagine superior.

In other words, the razors are better than our ability to use them.

Back to the original question: are you asking to understand differences between razors of a single brand or razors across brands?

Much of the difference between brands will play into the employees skill/care & the aesthetic styles of individual brands.

Outside of TI's C135 steel which gets a rep for being exceptionally hard: the steel is likely very similar between them.

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Originally Posted by jrudd

I have found myself wondering why one straight razor is better than others?

I know that there are generally junk razors from manufacturers using cheap material but I am not referring to them. I am referring to Ralf Aust, Dovo, Thiers-Issard, Boker Straight, and those in that category. I know that scale material and design can make a price difference and thickness/width of blades can also determine price and prefferance but what about material?

Is the forging processes different, is each razor from each manufacturer different from another? I am sure some amount of personal preference comes into play here kind of like the brand of oil someone religiously uses, or the favorite pistol one chooses to carry. Why do some enthusiasts prefer one brand of straight razor over another? Is it just the name, or is there more in play?

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I think a lot of is has to do with style, personal preferences, and ultimately brand following.

So whichever you go with, that you find is perfect to you, that price is just right. [emoji3]