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Thread: My first restoration attempt.
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12-04-2015, 04:12 PM #11
I would just fix it.
That is just me though.
Ed
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12-04-2015, 04:18 PM #12
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12-04-2015, 06:01 PM #13
- Join Date
- Oct 2015
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- Vermont
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Thanked: 8One more question if you guys don't mind.... so there's uneven hone wear on the spine making an uneven bevel when I'm honing. On one side it goes from left to right, thin to thick, and reverses on the opposite side. Any ideas about how to correct this?
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12-04-2015, 06:03 PM #14
Rolling X strokes.
Ed
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The Following User Says Thank You to Chevhead For This Useful Post:
Dramadon3151 (12-04-2015)
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12-05-2015, 02:10 AM #15
drilling it out a little more round and then using a spacer definitely works, I've used this method before. The only tricky part is grinding down the width of the spacer to fit within the width of the razor shank.
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12-05-2015, 05:09 AM #16
- Join Date
- Apr 2012
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- Diamond Bar, CA
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Thanked: 3215Or just pin it tight, it will be just fine.
Tons of razor are punched just like that and have worked for years.
If do you cut a 1/16 ID tube to epoxy in the hole, cut it with a small tube cutter, hack saw or Dremel cutoff wheel with tube taped to a piece of wood, with a piece of 1/16 in rod in the tube to keep from smashing it. Tape keeps you from losing it.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Euclid440 For This Useful Post:
Srdjan (12-09-2015)
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12-05-2015, 01:16 PM #17
Yup. Lots of Sheffields were just made with bigger holes. A tiny bit of play doesn't bother me once the pins are snug. I have "Fixed" a handful of blades with too much play. Hard to say if it would be an issue from that picture though. I would test fit the scales first and see how it feels.
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12-05-2015, 06:23 PM #18
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- Apr 2012
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- Diamond Bar, CA
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- 6,553
Thanked: 3215It is an interesting dilemma. I used to epoxy in a tube or peen with brass rod and drill the pin holes tight and found it caused more alignment problems than it solved. Getting the hole… straight can be a problem… Straight to what?
Now I just make a larger pin hole (3/32nd) and taper the outside of the scale hole and the collar and leave all but the very large holes alone.
I do the same on the wedge and do not glue the wedge to the scale or glue one side only to the scale. I also dome the collars and that creates a small cup for the peened pin head, making more downward, that outward pressure… I think.
This give bit of wiggle room so I can align the blade better, once it is aligned well and snug, then tighten the pin tapping one side then the other and the same to the wedge making sure nothing moves.
The pivot hole size does not need to be that tight and once peened tight will not move, and can be tighten and adjusted if needed.
For me it makes alignment way easer, and I don’t have any forward and back movement, it is a non-issue.
You guys that are making your own razors, are you drilling 1/16 in pivot holes?
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12-07-2015, 09:25 PM #19
- Join Date
- Oct 2015
- Location
- Vermont
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- 167
Thanked: 8
Here is the mostly finished product guys. Thanks for all your guidance with this. Everything seemed to go fairly well! More importantly I had fun doing it. I still have to gone it up and shave with it...I was good to sell it once it was finished, but I think I'll keep it around for a while!
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12-07-2015, 10:12 PM #20