mirror polishing a iwasaki? sacrilege?

So my iwasaki kamisori just arrived. I removed the yeallow handle wrap and found minor rust. Now I'm thinking why not polish the whole thing instead. I have sandpaper from 240 to 1500 euro system. Would that be bad? I have noticed rust is attracted to unpolished surfaces. and the more polished they are the less it will rust. I don't care about resale value.

The surface of this razor seems to be from the clay they coat the razor in while hardening. Sometimes you get this black surface on oil quenched parts, since they are 1000C when they hit the oil so it burns and sticks to the surface, and the result is black. and it could also simply get oxidized in the kiln to this color. And those 2 finishes are porous and hold oil to prevent rust. But this clay method?? I don't know I guess it hold a bit of oil. but obviously it wasn't enough in my case.

Would you guys crucify me (or just "find me and kill me") if I removed all the black and the rust from my iwasaki?

It’s your razor so I think you should do as you please (I would try to restore the black finish for a traditional look, but that’s just my view on aesthetics).

My understanding is that the handle and spine of the razor (i.e. all except the thin sliver of high carbon steel that makes up the edge) are wrought iron. I don’t know how well the will polish up, or if it is even capable of taking a mirror polish.

No, we have the SRP Secret Police to do the really dirty work.

Like he said it's your razor so you do with it what you like.

One thing for sure, if you polish it up you will have a unique piece for sure.

Actually I tried that with a vintage kamisori. It looks pretty but something about it doesn't look right.

I was talking with a pro custom razor maker, who does it full time, has made thousands of razors, and is obviously highly skilled. We were discussing a project that involved a couple of hundred razors.

He said he was going to give them a satin finish because the cost factor of mirror polishing would be prohibitive. He said that when you get to the end of a mirror finish one moment of inattention can ruin the whole thing.

Say that to say, if you are confident in your skill level go for it. If not maybe seek an alternative. If I bought a new razor from a vendor and it came rusty I might consider sending it back for a replacement.

Mmmmm, I would not do that with an Iwasaki if I had one. Also the Mirror finish of extending onto the handle, i would think would be a slippery one. It is your razor and in theory no one should judge you for what you do with your stuff.

Maybe our more astute members on tru Kami,s, would know , but I would agree if the material in the handle is not that kind of steel,mand as mirror on the handle , like Rez said pretty slick, I think I would rustproof and reward the handle, Tc

If it's a nice Iwasaki you may want to consider experimenting with something else.

Please dont!
Its your razor so do what you want, the black part is left over from the forging process and to me adds to the beauty.

I assume you're talking about something like this?

Attachment 225429

I would buff the crap out of it, then get someone to make a handle like brass knuckles and insert the Iwasaki into it....whoa.
You will ride eternal, shiny, and chrome.

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Originally Posted by BeJay

I assume you're talking about something like this?

Attachment 225429

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yes, but mine has fewer stamps, and its a 50mm.

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Originally Posted by WW243

I would buff the crap out of it, then get someone to make a handle like brass knuckles and insert the Iwasaki into it....whoa.
You will ride eternal, shiny, and chrome.

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I live, I die, I live again!

Iwasaki: Witness me

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Originally Posted by WW243

I would buff the crap out of it, then get someone to make a handle like brass knuckles and insert the Iwasaki into it....whoa.
You will ride eternal, shiny, and chrome.

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Attachment 225561

Right where do I go from here...

After about 1 hour with a p400 paper I'm about 50% done with removing the black color. This is seriously hard work. Its really deep in the steel that coating and it fills up the paper. If I had known how much work it would be I would not have done it, but now I need to finish it. For those of you who are thinking about doing this; DON'T...

.......:cry:

Maybe I'll duracoat it pink when its all done.

No doubt...

That black coating is tough.... I would suggest (if it's not too late) you try a Scotch-Brite pad as they won't clog up like wet-dry paper. If you want to wet-sand with it, I'd use kerosene or mineral spirits aka paint thinner for oil based paints... The typical odorless paint thinner is the kind of thing I'm thinking of. Kerosene and turpentine are fine too, but the odor can be a bit much.

You can use it dry of course, but there's going to be a lot of dust created so I use a little bit of paint thinner if I have... it washes out the pad and keeps the dust down.

You can get scotch-brite wheels for dremel type tools, if you wish to flirt with potential disasters.

Personally, I would probably draw file with a fine single cut file, but that's me, and I'm comfortable with the technique. It can be very aggressive, and if you have any sort of impressed pattern in the item you are draw filing, it would be lost.

Regards

Christian

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Originally Posted by kaptain_zero

That black coating is tough.... I would suggest (if it's not too late) you try a Scotch-Brite pad as they won't clog up like wet-dry paper. If you want to wet-sand with it, I'd use kerosene or mineral spirits aka paint thinner for oil based paints... The typical odorless paint thinner is the kind of thing I'm thinking of. Kerosene and turpentine are fine too, but the odor can be a bit much.

You can use it dry of course, but there's going to be a lot of dust created so I use a little bit of paint thinner if I have... it washes out the pad and keeps the dust down.

You can get scotch-brite wheels for dremel type tools, if you wish to flirt with potential disasters.

Personally, I would probably draw file with a fine single cut file, but that's me, and I'm comfortable with the technique. It can be very aggressive, and if you have any sort of impressed pattern in the item you are draw filing, it would be lost.

Regards

Christian

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I did eventually get it almost all off. Its about 99% done. Took me about 2h with a p400 and about 20 minuted with a p1000 paper.
And now today I'm gonna try to hone it on my coticule using a black marker to see if I'm doing it right.

I've been thinking about getting a feather kamisori SE to have as a reference for sharp blades.

btw getting that last 1% off would take me at least another hour or 2..

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Originally Posted by jigane

I did eventually get it almost all off. Its about 99% done. Took me about 2h with a p400 and about 20 minuted with a p1000 paper.
And now today I'm gonna try to hone it on my coticule using a black marker to see if I'm doing it right.

I've been thinking about getting a feather kamisori SE to have as a reference for sharp blades.

btw getting that last 1% off would take me at least another hour or 2..

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Make sure you tape the omote side if the razor or you will quickly wear it down and start to create a larger bevel than you want.

Please, no pictures 😬

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Originally Posted by WW243

Please, no pictures 😬

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I was thinking about posting 32 gigs worth of kamisori jpegs here and now you're saying you don't want to see it?? :(

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Originally Posted by celticcrusader

Make sure you tape the omote side if the razor or you will quickly wear it down and start to create a larger bevel than you want.

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I did a 15:1 ratio of the non stamped side vs the stamped. and on the non stamped I did edge leading strokes only and on the "1" side I did a single spine leading stroke every 15 to get rid of the wire edge. I'm not quite sure I formed any though. Also i put my fingers right up to the edge while doing both sides trying to spare the spine. This was on my 130mm coticule. I aslo drew with a marker on the edge and spine to se what was happening.

Seems to have worked. The razor is not super sharp, but sharp enough to get a comfortable shave. I also have a spyderco UF that I'm planning to test. But I will test that first with my dovo. since it much less expensive.

After looking at some MSDS sheets... I take back what I said about paint thinners and kerosene.... I'm surprised I'm still breathing after reading those!

Next time.... I'll be using unscented baby oil. It's thinner than the usual mineral oil sold at the drug stores for digestive use. The scented one is fine if you prefer your baby to have a baby scent I suppose.:p

Regards

Kaptain "Is baby oil made from real babies?" Zero

I would leave it be with exception of rust converter or something dabbed on the active rust.
That scale was left during the grinding, so it would seem to me to be an integral part of the razor.
Sanding on it may alter it's geometry as-honed. Like sanding on the side of any razor's spine.
JMHO


OH! Too late again! :)

This is the "Rust inhibitor" Saci 500 used in most modern formulations. https://www.daubertchemical.com/brands/saci I don't think it's available on the open market. I've only seen it in 5 gal and 50 gal drum stock. Consistency of heavy brown grease.

Maybe bead blast a dull satin finish (stipple texture) on the handle portion rather than mirror polish? https://www.google.com/search?q=stip...sxQX-_9FniM%3A
MIke

I went over it with a 1500 paper for a minute today and I'm fairly finished with it now.

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Looks like a really good looking shemale.