Rookie Razor Restoration Attempt

See this thread to see where I started:
http://straightrazorpalace.com/razor...er-3-days.html

I did a first stab at polishing it during the Super Bowl. I used Brasso and steel wool. I taped off the etching because someone in the other thread said it was important (though Im not sure why it would be other than aesthetics). I have a lot of pitting. In spite of the picture below the pits look shiny ... I think the shadows of the photograph make them look like they're still a bit rusty. For the most part they don't appear to be just looking at it naked eye. I think the only way I can get this better is with emery cloth.

1) Should I try to get it better or is it good enough to not have to worry about the oxidation continuing as it is (I'm not overly concerned with aesthetics)?
2) There is some less severe rust spots within the etched area. What should I do about that?
3) Can someone recommend a set of stones that are reasonably priced that I could use to get the edge back (the actual edge is pitted)?
picture follows ... any advice much appreciated.

Attachment 227595

I have no idea where you live, but in most areas of North America you can find Norton hones at fine woodworking shops that will do the trick without breaking the bank. Most often it is recommended that you get your shaving figured out first and then learn to hone. I think PinkLather tried to learn both together and from his experience comes that recommendation. I went with the shave first and hone later. Back to the question at hand. Norton 1K, 4K and 8K can get you to a really nice shaving edge. Hands on one on one meetings are the best way to learn, and meets are great for getting your honing started or dialed in. It is totally possible to learn from videos and typed instructions, but it is not the easy way. There are many many people that can hone that blade and get you started, rob ably even some that are close by.

Looks better than it did however I would not use emery cloth on it. You did good by using steel wool, I hope it was the 0000 steel wool. You could try taping off the etching & getting the spine trying som crox & a q-tip. If that seems to work you could do the opposite & tape the etch from the spine down covering the line of the etch & use the q-tip again just a little in that are but watch out for the "t". The same thing might also work with lapping film. That's justly opinion but only if it were to work. If you can live with it the way it is, I would just mark it down as a lesson learned. If you aren't into honing yet, I would send it to a pro. It does look a lot better. I have bought a Red Imp & also a Sta-Sharp that had very light rust on them so I took a chance & when each one got here (two separate incidents) I was lucky enough to get the rust off & you couldn't even tell it was on there. Others had passed on them & I got them cheap.

I mentioned the tape. The steel wool would probably have taken off the etch like it did the rust :<0)
You could run with it like that for awhil and see what happens if it doesn't really bother you in that condition or go on with some really fine paper.
It would probably be safer and cheaper to just send it out for a refresh. You think restore is fun wait to you try honing for the first time.

I think he is in Bolivia. 2 days ride by donkey to post office let alone a member :<0)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 10Pups

I mentioned the tape. The steel wool would probably have taken off the etch like it did the rust :<0)
You could run with it like that for awhil and see what happens if it doesn't really bother you in that condition or go on with some really fine paper.
It would probably be safer and cheaper to just send it out for a refresh. You think restore is fun wait to you try honing for the first time.

I think he is in Bolivia. 2 days ride by donkey to post office let alone a member :<0)

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+1 on honing for the first time. He will need to experiment around some before he gets it down.

The problem is there appears to be active rust within the etch. If it's not removed it will continue to eat the steel. If it were mine I would work the etched area with a fiberglass pen. They can be found at auto parts stores for a few dollars.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BeJay

The problem is there appears to be active rust within the etch. If it's not removed it will continue to eat the steel. If it were mine I would work the etched area with a fiberglass pen. They can be found at auto parts stores for a few dollars.

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There ya go BeJay, I totally forgot about that! Good call but yes, whatever is inside the etch will keep rusting if he doesn't do something about that.

Looks 100% better. I would send it out for a pro hone as has been mentioned.