Hinge pin lubrication

I was wondering if anybody ever uses any sort of lubricant on their hinge pin? On my Ralf Aust, I have been taking extra care to ensure that water does not roll down the tang into the hinge pin. I feel I have been doing a good job in that regard. But has anybody put a bit of oil, grease, etc along the pin to protect it from a wayward drop or two from getting in there? I was thinking of a tiny dab of white lithium grease just as a water barrier.

The scales are the factory plastic scales so I have to be careful on my choice of lubricants. That's why I am considering lithium grease as it does not soften plastics.

As always, any advice is appreciated. :)

Not sure about this.
I like my blade to be TIGHT in the scales to prevent movement.
Just blow out the pivot and you should be okay.

I have never oiled a pivot pin for the same reason Chevhead likes the pivot to be tight.

I use Tuf-Glide on my pivot pins & it keeps it lubed plus prevents rust. Others here do the same thing & use the same lube but there are also other lubes one can use. There have been threads on it. Another lube is Ballistol & there is another called Eexox. I did a search & here's a link on Tuf-Glide:

http://straightrazorpalace.com/razor...glide-use.html

Just do a search at the top right where it says search & click on advanced search & put in your key words. I typed in pivot pin lube. I also like my pivot to be nice & snug w/o any slack.

I only use ren wax on pivots mainly to seal the pivot materials from corrosion rather than a lubricant but it does both

The easiest way to keep the pivot dry is to avoid letting water near the blade. If you wipe lather off of the blade, with a sponge or cloth, there is no need for water ever to touch the blade.

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Originally Posted by Substance

I only use ren wax on pivots mainly to seal the pivot materials from corrosion rather than a lubricant but it does both

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Will Ren Wax be safe for plastic scales?

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Originally Posted by Utopian

The easiest way to keep the pivot dry is to avoid letting water near the blade. If you wipe lather off of the blade, with a sponge or cloth, there is no need for water ever to touch the blade.

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IVe been very good in that regards. I've even watched how Lynn rinses his razors and has the towel on his vanity to wipe it dry between strokes. But I am just thinking proactively here. What if I accidentally get water on the hinge area despite my best efforts to avoid it? What about an errant splash of water?

I guess my thread title was not well worded. I too want my blade to be tight in the scales. I just want to keep water out of it by any means necessary.

Other than normal care of keeping it dry I might spray some silicon in the pin area or Teflon I guess. WD-40 was invented to get moisture out & keep it out of electronics. I wouldn't sweat it to much. Rice is also used to get moisture from cell phones & my wife used it to fix a tv remote once. A hair dryer might be used to heat & blow moisture out of the hinge area
Good luck, Dave

I was worried about this with my first straight. I was advised to put a little white lithium grease on the pivot. Not the best idea... Pivot tension became very sloppy. I don't think you should do anything special; a modest effort to keep it dry and it should be fine for decades.

I oiled a blade I was restoring once with camellia oil and it ran into the pivot area. I got most of the excess out with tissues and went off to lunch. When I went to unpin it an hour or so later, I found that the oil had soaked into the bone scales, discolored them, and softened them way more than I would have thought possible. Neither scale survived the unpinning, although I had no trouble at all on the wedge (dry) side. Not an everyday occurrence, but you should definitely be wary of how oil will interact with the scale material if you are thinking of oiling the pivot.

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Originally Posted by sqzbxr

I oiled a blade I was restoring once with camellia oil and it ran into the pivot area. I got most of the excess out with tissues and went off to lunch. When I went to unpin it an hour or so later, I found that the oil had soaked into the bone scales, discolored them, and softened them way more than I would have thought possible. Neither scale survived the unpinning, although I had no trouble at all on the wedge (dry) side. Not an everyday occurrence, but you should definitely be wary of how oil will interact with the scale material if you are thinking of oiling the pivot.

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It seems I have read somewhere on this website not to use camellia oil.
As i have mentioned, I use Tuf-Glide but I think ballistic & Eezox are good also although I haven't tried those, I've heard nothing but good about them. To keep the rest of my blade from rusting, I use the Straight Razor Oil SRD sells.

I use TUF-GLIDE on my pivot areas. I also wipe the blade down too. So far, so good!

I add a drop of oil to the pivot area of my non-Ivory razors, and it hasn't hurt anything yet. I take care to keep the pivot dry, but water does seem to get in the pivot area at times...

Engine 46, I use Eezox too, on all my guns, knives, etc.

Far as Ivory goes, Mineral oil preserves Ivory, I have seen whole Mammoth tusks soaking in mineral oil, For what it's worth.

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Originally Posted by FAL

Engine 46, I use Eezox too, on all my guns, knives, etc.

Far as Ivory goes, Mineral oil preserves Ivory, I have seen whole Mammoth tusks soaking in mineral oil, For what it's worth.

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Come to think of it, I have never lubed any of my Ivory scaled razors Dave.