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I bought this locally, and I'm hoping to restore it. Could anyone tell me what it is, is origin, and whether it's worth restoring?
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It is a Bismark, a very popular and high quality brand.
It's this razor worth restoring?
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It is worth restoring if you are looking for a decent shave. With that much wear ir will never be a looker though, but it will be good practice and once completed what you learn from it could be very valuable.
This is my practice before I attempt to restore my finest English steel razor. That has been in the family for a few generations and I don't want to ruin it. Search on here for it, and you'll find it if you're interested.
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JimmyHAD has some good background info on this razor in this thread:
http://straightrazorpalace.com/razor...rck-brand.html
I think it is, like RezDog said, absolutely worth fixing up, both for the shave quality and for the experience.
Remember, there is LOTS of good info here, just poke around and remember you can use the search feature for threads that may have info on the steps of restoring if this is your first go. Happy restoring!
I think it has seen its better days days. However, once you start working on it the rust may not be as deep as it appears and it could wind up being a nice shaver.
Bismarck was an excellent brand. I would say it is worth restoring as a shaver if you do the work yourself. I don't think it is worth sending out to a pro, unless there is significant sentimental value.
Yeah good maker but as they say it's never going to be a looker although I would imagine it could end up being a good shaver.
It will make a good shaver. All German razors are good shavers. She may not be the prettiest girl but she'll treat you right!
I bet that could be dressed up to look great. To me in the pictures the rust does not seem too bad. May have to take a tad metal off but it may be better than you thought. Won't know until you start getting into it. I say restore it!
Out of curiosity, what grit would you start with on this razor? I wouldn't think it would need something as low as 80, but I could be wrong. Maybe a wire brush first, to determine how bad the pitting may be? Then determine the grit?
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Some pictures after the wire brush. There isn't really any pitting, from what I can see
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I start with 1000 grit sandpaper and step down in grit until I get satisfactory results, then work back up in grit sizes to 2500 grit. Finish with metal polish and CrOx - but all of that is for a mirror finish. If you want to keep the patina then start at 1000 and work up the grits and polish.
I very rarely go below 600 grit, but would start at 1000 and see how it goes with that and then either drop down or start progressing up, depending on how it goes. It is always best to go with wet and WD-40. A backer is also a must have. My favorite backer is wine corks, but it it not the only choice.
The rust came off nicely! I would also recommend starting no lower than 600 grit, otherwise you will spend too much time trying to get out the deep scratches:) I personally much prefer to wet sand but it will get messy...
Post pictures when you finish!
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Here's about 30 minutes with the 600 grit wet sanding
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Well... the scales didn't come off as easy as I would've liked... :(
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A couple of things that will make all the difference when you take scales off. A split point drill bit in a pin vice is my main tool for removing scales. I file the pin flat as close to the collar as possible and then use the split point drill to cut through the pin. They should be quite easy to deal with.
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After broken scales and 1000 grit.
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So, I started to notice some small pits and just couldn't let it be. I backed off to 150 grit and worked my way back up. This is at 2k grit. The last grit that I have is 2500 grit. I'm wondering if I should even take it that far...
This is my first razor. My hands hurt from sanding, my fingernails are black... however, I'm finding this very self-rewarding.
I had to stop sanding the tang because I was removing the Bismarck stamp...
At this point, should I just polish it with some mother's? Should I take it any farther?
Anyone know who'll rescale it and hone it in front of me? I'm curious to see this process up close. Looking at acrylic for the scale... I just like it.
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If you are going for a mirror finish then Mother's is a good next step. I hand rub CrOx and then use mothers.
Sorry about the scales, but it happens when you are learning.
You've come this far, you can make your own scales and pin it yourself if you wish. Plenty of videos that will show you how.
@criswilson, I would love to. However, I don't have the tools to complete that task. I may attempt to meet up with someone to help me with this that is close.
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Honestly if you are in no rush to make the scales, the process is not the difficult with a few hand tools. A coping saw, a small clamp, a course wood file, a scraper, a hand drill and wet dry sand paper and of course some horn or bone blanks and you are off to the races.
Yep, +1 on RezDog.Quote:
Originally Posted by RezDog
As far as the blade, I like criswilson10's idea if 2500 is the highest you have. I have from 240 grit in progressions up to 3000 grit. Whenever I sand a blade or scales I go in progressions until I get to the last step, then it is polishing time. All this can be done with a few household tools & some time. I used to make my scales the hard way but I have since started using a cheap belt sander from Harbor Freight Tools until I can get a better one.
For first scales I recommend acrylic (plexiglass). It's cheap, readily available, and easy to work with hand tools. All you need is a fine tooth saw, sand paper, and a small drill bit. You can get a pinning kit with washers and rod online and all you need is a light weight round headed hammer. You may break the acrylic while pinning the first time, but you can make another one pretty easily.