do you need to stanilize any of those for razor scales? i've heard of some people that sday you need to stabilize those an the snakewood...
thanks!
Gabe
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I haven't worked with lignum, but either the horn nor the tropical hardwoods require stabilization. The hardwoods polish up beautifully and are generally pretty stable even without a finish, though a well-done CA, epoxy, or some sort of rubbed oil finish would certainly seal the deal.
Stabilizing soft, punky and/or spalted burls in a vacuum chamber with "Cactus Juice" or similar and then curing them is a necessity, and can produce stunning results. But unless you're going to get into it on a volume basis (or have a knife-maker friend who will trade nice blanks for fancy cut-off pieces from a custom art furniture maker!), it might be easier just to buy the stabilized blanks.
Thanks Sout! one las question, whats the CA epoxy? I mean i know whats wpoxy, but what does CA stand for?
Thanks!
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CA is super glue. Stands for cyanoacrylate. It will produce a glass like finish if done right. I like it on yellowheart. It really makes the wood stand out. Here is a good bit of info on doing it.http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...ints-tips.html
It isn't used much because the grain is nothing special but teak is an ideal wood. It is extremely dense and almost impervious to water. Fresh cut teak will actually sink not float.
If its cut properly, it has an awesome grain.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b89f56127f.jpg
I am partial to scales made from kauri wood. Not much to look at, unless you get lucky with a quilt or burl grain, but pretty cool to use wood that is over 45,000 years old. Basically, the wood on these scales pre-dates shaving.