Carbon content dilema (advice needed)

Hi all,

I am a University student studying at the University of Melbourne and am looking to start my own online business selling straight razors. I am in the process of trying to lock down a supplier for the stainless steel used to make straight razors, but am having trouble deciding what kind of metal to use. Hence, I thought I would make a post here since you guys are clearly experts on the matter of straight razors!
I guess my main confusion is in regards to carbon content. At the moment I'm considering manufacturing the blades using 304 grade stainless steel which has a maximum of 0.07% carbon content but I hesitate to commit because I'm afraid a low carbon content might sacrifice the integrity of the blade. So my question is, how much carbon is typically suitable in a straight razor? Are straight razors made without carbon?

Thanks a lot for your help! :)

Hi Hassy . Just a friendly warning that market research is not allowed, however I can tell you that Henckels Friodurs are made with 440C & ice tempered so if you can master that process & pull apart & re assemble a few hundred vintage razors you may be on the right path. I'm not a smith but I don't think 304 would cut it.

Looks to me like excellent advice. Friodurs are very good razors. I have a modern and an older one: both great shavers, still being manufactured AFAIK.

The Workshop forum on this site would be the place to ask for advice regarding steels. Lots of knowledgeable folks there.

The Workshop

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Originally Posted by Kees

Looks to me like excellent advice. Friodurs are very good razors. I have a modern and an older one: both great shavers, still being manufactured AFAIK.

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JA Henckels still has production but they stopped producing razors around 1990.

You need to do some research in metallurgy before trying to get into the straight razor business.

The 300 stainless series such as 304, 308, and 316 are designed with high amounts of chromium and nickel to provide good corrosion resistance. Thus, they are the steels of choice for stainless steel utensils, pot and pans, etc. However, these steels do not take or hold an edge effectively, so they are poor choices for knives and razors.

Many knives and most razors are made from carbon steel (non-stainless) such as 1095, C100, C115, 52100, O1, etc.

There are razors made from semi-stainless steels that have more chromium then carbon steel, but do not have the requisite 13% chromium for a true stainless steel. An example of a semi-stainless steel is D2 with 11-13% chromium.

Stainless steel knives and razors are generally made from 400 series stainless steel or equivalent. Buck Knives are now made from 420HC which is a modifiedl high-carbon version of 420 stainless.

Many inexpensive knives are made of 440A steel or equivalent. Chinese knives are often made with 7CR17MoV stainless which is a modified version of 440A. They have good corrosion resistance and sharpen easily, but do not hold an edge particularly well, so they need frequent resharpening. Some inexpensive razors (China, Pmight be made from this steel.

The next step up is 440B steel. The Japanese version is known as AUS-8 which is a well known knife steel. The Chinese equivalent is 8CR13MoV. Knives made from these steels are harder to sharpen, but hold their edge well. I do not know if anyone makes razors from these steels. It is often used for scissors and barber tools.

There is also Sandvik 13C26 also known as Swedish razor stainless steel. It has 13% chromium. It was designed specifically for razors.


The steel used for surgical instruments such as scalpels is 440C, often known as surgical stainless for its ability to take and hold an edge. It is the steel that Buck used for its vintage knives, but some customers complained of difficulty in sharpening these knives, so they now use 420HC. However, if you are going to make a stainless razor that will take and hold edge, 440C or equivalents such as Japanese AUS-10 steel and Chinese 9Cr18MoV would be good choices.

When producing a knife or razor, the type of steel used is important. However, the tempering/heat treating/hardening process is equally important, perhaps even more so. You can take a great steel, but if it is not properly hardened, it will make a lousy razor.

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Originally Posted by Hassy

Are straight razors made without carbon?

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This makes me think that you might not be ready to consider such a business. Do you plan on making the razors yourself? Do you have any experience making any other blades?

If I were to find out that you had made a razor from your suggested steel and were offering it for sale, I would warn the world of the poor quality.

You have a lot of research to do. A lot of knowledge to acquire. A lot of practice will be necessary.
This is not an easy task, many others have tried and failed.

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Originally Posted by Hassy

At the moment I'm considering manufacturing the blades using 304 grade stainless steel which has a maximum of 0.07% carbon content but I hesitate to commit because I'm afraid a low carbon content might sacrifice the integrity of the blade.

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Hey Hassy, 304 is not going to be a good steel to make your razors with, regardless of heat treating they will never hold an edge for long enough to keep your customers happy. I worked extensively with 304 in my previous job and while it has some wonderful qualities in terms of manufacturing and chemical and oxidation resistance, it's much softer than a lot of SS and certainly most of the carbon steels out there. I would highly recommend not using this steel for razors as it will just let your customers down, and this is your reputation on the line.
One of the few times i'm going to offer advice here, as i am still learning all about wet shaving, but steel type and 304 in particular is something i have extensive knowledge about. Find a different material for your blanks would be my advice.
as always, just one man's opinion :)

might want to learn to use and maintain a razor to find out what you are trying to sell. the knowledge gained will help you build a decent razor. just from your thought on steel really shows your not even in the ballpark. cause if you cant shave with one, who will trust your razors?, now if your just wanting to build letter openers, go for it Tc

Actually, TC makes a very good point. In addition to my questions above, what experience do you have with straight shaving?

It actually is critical for you to understand how to use them if you want any hope of being able to be competent making, or even just selling, them.

Hassy, I realize that it may seem like we are piling on with criticism, but I hope that you can recognize that we actually are trying to help.

Many thanks to everyone who replied, especially onimaru55, RayClem and Butzy who were extremely helpful.
I guess I should mention that I am not trying to replicate the traditional straight razor. Above all, my aim is to produce something that is reasonable priced but retains the function and and an extent of quality of traditional straight razors. If you imagine the cheap, disposable safety razor at one end of the spectrum and the expensive, high-quality straight razors that you guys enjoy at the other end, my aim is to produce something in the middle for a reasonable price. Hence in manufacturing my product I am considering all metals even those that are traditionally unconventional for straight razors.
Again I am still learning the traditional straight razor and I really appreciate all replies.

@Utopian no worries all comments are welcome and admit my knowledge of straight razors is a minute in comparison to the rest of the members on this forum but that is why I am here and learning.
I do appreciate your help :)

The reason we say pull a few hundred apart is that high end or mid quality there is an essence to the geometry & function of a straight that a lot of smiths that attempt razor making just don't or won't get.
It's not a mousetrap that can be made better. Cheaper or unconventional sure but better nuhh... Ok maybe modern plastics might last longer than celluloid but that's about it.

It's this simple; You need to know more about your products than your customers.

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Originally Posted by Hassy

my aim is to produce something that is reasonable priced but retains the function and and an extent of quality of traditional straight razors. If you imagine the cheap, disposable safety razor at one end of the spectrum and the expensive, high-quality straight razors that you guys enjoy at the other end, my aim is to produce something in the middle for a reasonable price. Hence in manufacturing my product I am considering all metals even those that are traditionally unconventional for straight razors. ....

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There are straight razors that cost $10 (perhaps even less). There are straight razors that cost $1000. No matter whether the razor is carbon steel or stainess steel, the cost of the metal in the razor comprises on a very small portion of the manufacturing cost. The cost of the razor depends on the crafstmanship (or lack thereof) put into the razor. A $1000 razor is designed as a work of art by a artist who pays attention to every detail. The $10 razor is designed to have the bare minimum of craftsmanship. It is possible to produce a $100 razor that will deliver a shave equal in performance to the $1000 razor, however, it will not deliver the same style experience. The performance of the $100 razor is likely to be far superior to that of the $10 razor as that inexpensive razor will lack some of the qualities needed to deliver a good shave. However, if someone has the skills and time to refine the $10 razor, it might be made to perform as well as the $100 razor, but it will never come close to the style of the $1000 custom razor.

There is a market for $1000 razors. There is a market for $10 razors. However, the best bang for the buck is probably in the $100-150 razor market.

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Originally Posted by RayClem

No matter whether the razor is carbon steel or stainess steel, the cost of the metal in the razor comprises on a very small portion of the manufacturing cost. .

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I agree with this with the exception of if you go to the extremes of using metal from a meteorite or the prop shaft of the Titanic.....:)

A couple of years ago there was an SRP member that decided he could figure out a way to mfg straight razors and compete with the "Gold Dollar razors" of the world. He had a lot of experience in the business world and usually succeeded at whatever he tried. He really worked at this and realized from the start that hand labor was the big enemy. He went to a well known MFG of CNC machines and talked with them. They said they could build a machine that could do most of the grinding but it would cost $300,000+. .... so he tried to build another version which used 2 Bader grinders mounted on a lead screw. He found out that this generated a lot of heat on the steel blade and eventually slowed his work down enough to keep the temps reasonable. The problem he had was in the heat treating and tempering. He was overcooking the steel ..... That's the last I heard from him.