Best of the Best, Vintage and New

I'm very new to the world of straight razors, and wet shaving. I've read most of the stuff in the library and have gathered that the 3 bigs, Dovo, Boker, and Thiers-Issard, are the most sought after brands. I was curious what are the Razors everyone wants? Whats the Action Comics #1 of razors, and whats the "hot new model." I understand most of it comes down to preference, but I am curious to hear everyones response. What do you feel separates those top 3 from the other brands, and what do you think the difference between the 3 are in relation to each other? Aside from giving a good shave, what makes a good razor? What do you look for? What size do you prefer and why (I ask that because I'm new and I have no idea what any other size does or doesn't do.) Who's the historian on here that can fill me in an everything straight razor?

ATM I am a big fan of Swedes and Filarmonicas. Both are easy to hone, take a good edge and give a smooth shave. As I am prone to skin irritation that is the thing for me.

Wacker for new or Grelot for vintage for me followed by Mappin and Webb. Wade and Butchers are favorites too.

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Originally Posted by Kyleybob

I'm very new to the world of straight razors, and wet shaving. I've read most of the stuff in the library and have gathered that the 3 bigs, Dovo, Boker, and Thiers-Issard, are the most sought after brands. I was curious what are the Razors everyone wants? Whats the Action Comics #1 of razors, and whats the "hot new model." I understand most of it comes down to preference, but I am curious to hear everyones response. What do you feel separates those top 3 from the other brands, and what do you think the difference between the 3 are in relation to each other? Aside from giving a good shave, what makes a good razor? What do you look for? What size do you prefer and why (I ask that because I'm new and I have no idea what any other size does or doesn't do.) Who's the historian on here that can fill me in an everything straight razor?

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The Dovo, Boker, and Thiers-Issard razors don't even hit my radar unless they are vintage.
Have a Bengall 5/8 that cost $2, it shaves as good as razors that owe me 100 times that and some.
Like Kees said, the Filarmonica razors do take a nice edge, but you are paying a premium.
Genco, Burrell, Shumate, to name a few are all good American manufactured razors and as good as anything else out there.

I have razors in my rotation that are in the well respected class and most in the also ran class. For the life of me I can't fathom what the difference is when it comes to the shave. The shave is the reason these things exist.

Over the years there were hundreds of razor makers in Sheffield, Solingen, Sweden, USA, Spain, Japan, Russia and other places I am sure. Most of those on any given day could turn out a razor that was properly made and also a few that weren't. Manufacturing being what it is, that is likely true today.

For that reason I am not too fussy about brand names so long as the razor was well made and capable of taking a shave ready edge.

Since I have no control over how well a razor has been made I look for a razor that is in decent condition, when it comes to vintage ones, which is not a problem with newly made ones. They have a blade style that I like, in a size that I like, are pleasing to my eye and at a price that I am willing to pay.

The blade size is a personal preference. Keep in mind that I have not seen, when I was a kid many moons ago, a barber using very large sized razors. If I had to bet most were in the 5/8 - 6/8 range. It was and still is all you need to get the job done in style at a modest price point. Personally I prefer razors in the 5/8 - 7/8 range for those reasons.

I guess I am not much help when it comes to naming the best of the best but there it is. The only thing I will say for brands is that I have not met a vintage Boker that I did not like. I have no idea what the new ones are like.

Bob

More than focusing on brand, I'd try to find what size, grind and condition I'm in the market for.
There are stellar shavers in all categories.

Avoid the cheap pakistanis and most cheap new production models and you should be golden.

Browsing around these forums, the razor clubs in particular, will give you a good feeling of what is popular and considered "up there"

In threads like "shave of the day" you'll find a lot of high end stuff as well.
Most people show off some really sweet stuff in there.

All that said, there is not really all that much difference in shaving ability on a ton of respected brands from the past out there.
Some are more popular (pricey) than others, but a well maintained vintage razor will work wonderfully.
Much more often than not.

Thanks Bob. Now i dont have to post, as you said it all for me and i agree 100%. Even to the many moons ago and Bokers.

There's been a lot of great advise said here so far. But in my opinion, if you're wanting newer, then a custom razor is your best bet. There are few if any really good new razors out there by mass producers.
Now you can't really go wrong with any of the razors made in Sheffield back in the day. As long as the razor is in good condition, then you'll have a fine shaver.
Also there are a few American producers from back in the day as well.
This is a rabbit hole, like most anything involved in straight razor shaving lol

Watch the Buy/Sell/Trade area of the forum, you can find some very good razors there at good prices.
And they are shave ready.

As to size, that is a personal preference. I like 6/8 and up. But I also have some 5/8 and 4/8 in my collection. They are all a joy to shave with. Different grinds give you different feed back, but in all honesty shave no different.

Just enjoy and have fun!!!!
That's really all that matters

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Originally Posted by Dieseld

There's been a lot of great advise said here so far. But in my opinion, if you're wanting newer, then a custom razor is your best bet. There are few if any really good new razors out there by mass producers.
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Custom can be great, no doubt.
I have a few of my own;)

That said, in my experience one needs to thread carefully in that market.
Not all makers of today are quite up to snuff imho.

We don't do vendor bashing on SRP, but check around with other experienced members before buying is my advice:)

That is very true Birnado, and I agree. Just check around here, and you'll see who's razors are used and who's aren't.
Also check in the razor clubs area. I'm pretty sure every good maker has a following there

If you're new at this I suggest that you get your technique down first with a 5/8 then branch out as to different brands and sizes. That technique is not only shaving but stropping. Once you are confident with that then experiment with size and brand. I have a hodge podge of razors in all sizes......new, vintage, heirloom, NOS, custom, restored. So my current favorites are---->
New--Boker 6/8.
Vintage--Geo. Wostenholm IXL Celebrated 7/8.
Heirloom--My Grandfather's Lakeside cutlery 6/8.
NOS--Jacob Wiss 5/8.
Custom--Koraat 8/8.
Restored--Isaac Diller 13/16 restored by Outback Mike.
I'm sure this list will change when the next razor comes my way.

If I do my part with stropping and shaving I get a comfortable, long lasting, 4 pass bbs that keeps the old widow women and divorcees happy. Welcome to the rabbit hole. It's deep and there is no light at the end of the tunnel. Look sharp and smell nice for the ladies.:)

Really great advice so far.
I would just add that you can buy a nice vintage razor for a fraction of what they costed three years ago so you should definitely give one a try. Another member recently posted a W&B he bought on eBay for $20 that was in excellent condition.

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Originally Posted by Benz

Welcome to the rabbit hole. It's deep and there is no light at the end of the tunnel.

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If you see a light, you were probably shaving the wrong direction.

Any razor of quality steel. If honed right will shave as good as the next. It boils down to beard/ skin prep, and your shaving techniques.

For grind and size, that becomes a personal thing.
I myself don't care for wedges, the extra width of the bevel, causes them to stick to my face. Not that I don't get a comfortable shave from them, I just don't care to use a lot of force to move a razor across my face.
Like Benz, and many others here, I have a large collection of different makes and grinds, new to vintage. So far vintage is my favorite, over new production. They can be obtained on the cheap, if you can restore and hone, yourself.

I personally like the smiling blades more than the straight ones, but will shave with any of them just the same.
30+ years with straights makes a big difference, too.

When I was fairly new, I went on a buying spree that lasted for over a year. During that time I shaved with many many razors. There are a lot of good razors out there. If you can figure out your favourite size and grind, that helps. The barber supply brands are often top shelf and sell for very little money. However they are almost all 5/8 or 6/8 full hollow. If you seek large or heavy ground razorsthey will usually come at a premium.

Thanks to all for the replies. I have a 6/8 Dovo (Col. Conk) that seams to work nicely, but seeing as I'm new, I really have no idea what I'm doing. Learning to shave with, and care for a straight razor is a little different than most things. Its a lost art, for the most part, and regardless of how much you read or watch, it seems to be trial and error. You're on your own unless you know someone. It would be a little different if someone I knew shaved with one and lived close by. Its much easier with someone there in person walking you through it, and pointing things out. However, growing up poor and lazy, trial and error is my cup of tea.

The guys have given good information here, but in my opinion only skirted your original question. As one said, there aren't many modern, current producers. Here's my list of new producers: Dovo, Boker, Thiers Issard, Wacker, Revisor. I likely missed some. Among the modern producers are the artisans like Mastro Livi, Korrat, Riga Razors. Others I don't their names. Not mass produced, but by order, by the piece. Don't forget the New-Old-Stock (NOS) razors. These are vintage razors made years ago, but are still new, never been used, still in the box. They are numerous. Next are the used vintage razors. Some are beautifully restored, some not so much. Numerous brands, steels, countries of origin. Many members here focus extensively on vintage razors. Most of mine are new or NOS, but I'm starting to branch out into the vintage realm.

As to size, point style, etc. There is no right or wrong, better or best. Everything is personal preference. Though some might argue other wise. Whatever direction you head, give much diligence to learning, learn to use your tools properly.

BTW, put your city, st in your profile. That will help us help you. As a truck driver I'm through Little Rock often I've stopped before to coach others. Join my list.

Edit: I knew I'd forget some. Ralf Aust, Portland Razor Company. I don't know if PRC is mass producing or order by the piece. Hart Razors.

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Originally Posted by Longhaultanker

As a truck driver I'm through Little Rock often I've stopped before to coach others. Join my list.

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Thank you for the info. Its a bit off topic, but I've always wanted to ask a trucker this. How does I-30 stack up with interstates around the country as far as amount of you truckers? By that I mean, the amount on the road at any given time. I've used I-30 far more than any other interstate, and it has always seemed to have a hell of a lot of trucks on it at all times. I've always been curious if we just have a heavy amount of truck traffic, or if it was normal, or actually light.

Interstate 30 from Little Rock to Texarkana is the only major route serving routes west/east, or north / south from Houston. Saint Louis to Dallas, right through I-30. Its a major truck route. Lots of trucks. Only I-40 east of Little Rock worse.

I know where Prescott, AR is. Loves truck stop. Easy access. I'd be happy to stop. Currently awaiting deliver Wednesday in Toronto, but should be through Prescott Friday/ Saturday later this week.

I should have added: Memphis is a major freight hub. I-55, I-40 intersect there. From there all points n, s, e, w.

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Originally Posted by Dieseld

There are few if any really good new razors out there by mass producers.

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Not sure if Ralf Aust or Wacker would be regarded as "mass producers", but have only heard good things about them.

Amongst my new production razors I have 3 Thiers Issard, 3 Wacker, 2 Dovo, 1 Ralf Aust. They all hone and shave just fine.

Custom is where my heart has gone, especially those who are starting out and have promise.

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Originally Posted by ScottGoodman

Custom is where my heart has gone, especially those who are starting out and have promise.

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You and me both, buddy ;)

Make that three of us fellas.

Some of the new customs are just amazing razors

I don't think TI, boker, and dovo are the most sought after current production, just the most prolific (i.e. mass produced ) of very few modern manufacturers.

I really think those who are aficionados are seeking certan vintage models or customs.

That being said TI, dovo, and boker have some nice razors as well. For current production you could also look at whacker and ralf aust.

There really isn't a consensus superman first edition or honus wagner.

My suggestion is look at razors on ebay across the spectrum and get a feel for what turns you on before you start buying. Good luck, you have plenty of company.

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Originally Posted by NittanyGator

I don't think TI, boker, and dovo are the most sought after current production, just the most prolific (i.e. mass produced ) of very few modern manufacturers.

I really think those who are aficionados are seeking certan vintage models or customs.

That being said TI, dovo, and boker have some nice razors as well. For current production you could also look at whacker and ralf aust.

There really isn't a consensus superman first edition or honus wagner.

My suggestion is look at razors on ebay across the spectrum and get a feel for what turns you on before you start buying. Good luck, you have plenty of company.

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Or you could go my route of buying one of each and see what you like then thin the herd later. [emoji50]
Set a price limit though... lesson learned. [emoji6]

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I appreciate all the info, and replies. As stated, I'm very new so a lot of razors look the same to me. How did most of you acquire most of your razors in the begging as you delved more into the hobby that is wet shaving? To me it makes sense that you would get a better understanding of things and different razors seeing them in person. I'm sure antique stores are where most vintage can be found, but I'm relegated to an hour drive for the closest one. I'm not complaining, I'm just curious. The only other option is internet, which is fine when you know what your doing, and what it is your looking for. I'm happy with my Dovo (Col. Conk.) It was an internet purchase after a small amount of research a few years ago. I do believe it needs to be honed, and have planes to get that squared away. It was used a few times then sat for 3 or 4 years. It got a little rust that I've pretty much eliminated, but I think it has a small chip in the edge.

I inherited my first two. I had MyCarver restore one, then the other after I botched the attempt. After I learned how to use them a bit, I started reading, then buying. I've gotten a bit crazy but don't regret any of them. Most I bought off the bay, or other other online sites. Only 1 over $100, most are "user grade" and in the $30 to $60 range. If I wanted, I could get that back from them.
Then honing. I haven't gotten crazy with stones yet... Well too crazy.
Imo there are razors I love that I paid $30 for, others I paid much more that shave the same.
I doubt that you'll find a shotty vintage manufacturer but you'll pay a premium for minimal wear and tear. I think there's more bang for the buck in vintage. That's me.
I think there might be pass around razors in the forum too. That might be an option for you. Try different widths, weights, makers, hone techniques. I'm not sure of the details.
That's my two cents

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It has already been said, but I don't believe that those brands are sought after at all. They are simply the three main manufacturers that still make good products.

As others have said look to the grind and shape of a blade, but the thing is until you try you won't know what you like. My first razor was like many others a 5/8" full hollow round point Dovo best quality. It is often recommended for beginners as it is easy to handle and doesn't have extra sharp bits on the end like a square point would have. The thing is, I would say that it is now my least favourite razor. It shaves every bit as well as all of my others, I am just not a huge fan of a full hollow. Many others love the hollow grinds, but I just don't like the sound it makes.

I have ventured a little in to the vintage market and a little into the custom market too and they are all great. I would say if you are looking for a quality new razor that is on par in terms of price to the ones you listed, but maybe has a little more of a "custom feel" you could look to Ralf Aust.

Good luck and enjoy.

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Originally Posted by Dieseld

But in my opinion, if you're wanting newer, then a custom razor is your best bet. There are few if any really good new razors out there by mass producers.

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I also wouldn't consider Ralf Aust, Revisoren or Wacker mass producers (or Koraat, for that matter), and I would take any one of those over most "customs" I have seen over the last ±7 years any day.

And not just because of price but also design and the fact that I prefer hollow ground razors. Most custom makers don't offer hollow ground, or if they do it comes at a premium.

I know this is much based on opinion. Still, I wouldn't consider recommending a custom razor over e.g. a basic model Ralf Aust sage advice for a new shaver.

With regards to the original questions:

There is no ultimate best razor. Most vintage and new razors are decent to good, depending on the state they're in.

Wade and Butchers (and other wide Sheffield wedges) and Filarmonicas are ever popular, and I'm not sure why. I guess bigger is better.

Don't get me wrong, both are decent brands, but I have never considered them the cream of the crop, by a long shot. Just because something is popular (and hence, expensive) doesn't mean it's necessarily high quality.

Personally, my favourites are Solingen and Eskilstuna full hollows, ranging 5/8 to 13/16. Anything above that is more of a bother than useful to me, as I can't see half of my face with, let's say, an 8/8. With facial hair, that's a real issue.

Best regards,

Pieter


Ps: Considering the Cambridge Dictionary's definition of 'artisan (adj.)':

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Originally Posted by Cambridge Dictionary

made in a traditional way by someone who is skilled with their hands

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I very much consider Ralf Aust, Revisor and Wacker as straight up artisans rather than mass producers.

Vintage Sheffield are the best of the best.
We all agree on that.
Thank you :)

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Originally Posted by JOB15

Vintage Sheffield are the best of the best.
We all agree on that.
Thank you :)

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NO no no Solingen is the best of the best. No, wait a minute American is the best of the best or is Japanese. Oh I give up. :D

Bob

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Originally Posted by Pithor

I also wouldn't consider Ralf Aust, Revisoren or Wacker mass producers (or Koraat, for that matter), and I would take any one of those over most "customs" I have seen over the last ±7 years any day.

And not just because of price but also design and the fact that I prefer hollow ground razors. Most custom makers don't offer hollow ground, or if they do it comes at a premium.

I know this is much based on opinion. Still, I wouldn't consider recommending a custom razor over e.g. a basic model Ralf Aust sage advice for a new shaver.

snip....


I very much consider Ralf Aust, Revisor and Wacker as straight up artisans rather than mass producers.

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Pithor, I also don't consider these as mass producers.

And grind is also a personal preference as well.

Maybe being a bit more clear, a Gold Dollar is a mass produced razor that most likely will not give you a good shave without some "professional" help to get it shave ready. As well as many of the "less expensive" razors offered on some big sites like Amazon. Now go to most shaving sites, like SRD or Shave Nation, and they offer good razors. SRD razors will be shave ready when they arrive. To me this is very important.

As to some of the custom producers, I have numerous razors from them, and they are all top quality and give an amazing shave.
The vintage razors, as long as they are in the proper condition will also give you a great shave.

I think your mentioning Wade & Butcher as well as Filarmonicas, they are both companies that did produce quality razors. And as many here will attest, the Sheffield steel is a bit different for some reason, and shaves better than much of the modern steel. As well as holds a better edge in my opinion.

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Originally Posted by Dieseld

Pithor, I also don't consider these as mass producers.

And grind is also a personal preference as well.

Maybe being a bit more clear, a Gold Dollar is a mass produced razor that most likely will not give you a good shave without some "professional" help to get it shave ready. As well as many of the "less expensive" razors offered on some big sites like Amazon. Now go to most shaving sites, like SRD or Shave Nation, and they offer good razors. SRD razors will be shave ready when they arrive. To me this is very important.

As to some of the custom producers, I have numerous razors from them, and they are all top quality and give an amazing shave.
The vintage razors, as long as they are in the proper condition will also give you a great shave.

I think your mentioning Wade & Butcher as well as Filarmonicas, they are both companies that did produce quality razors. And as many here will attest, the Sheffield steel is a bit different for some reason, and shaves better than much of the modern steel. As well as holds a better edge in my opinion.

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As for mass produced razors, I consider Dovo, Böker, possibly Thiers Issard (I'm not sure about the magnitude of their operation) as well as Gold Dollars to belong to that category.

I don't necessarily consider custom razors, Sheffield razors or Filarmonicas inferior razors. Custom razors simply don't check a lot of boxes for me for what I look for in a razor.

As for Sheffield razors, the lion's share of the ones I've come across had geometry issues to some degree, much more so than 19th century and modern production Solingen razors.

As for Sheffield steel, I hesitate to ascribe any specific qualities to it, as I don't believe there was such a thing as homogeneous, consistent Sheffield steel (contrary to Swedish and modern steels used by Herkenrath) due to the vast number of forges there must have been in the area.

I find it hard to ascribe differences to the steels used. Grinds are obviously also a big influence on how a razor behaves on the hones, and I find it hard to determine the causes of discrepancies.

Also, I haven't noticed any significant differences in edge retention between different steels (maybe stainless is a bit tougher in that respect).

I'm not a big fan of putting things (and people, for that matter) on a pedestal. Which is why I have refrained from dubbing my preferences 'the best'.

Most razors, vintage and modern, will make decent to good shavers.

Best regards,

Pieter

Thanks, I appreciate your reply.
I think we are getting to understand each other opinions better.
All in all I do agree with most of what you've said.

Thanks again, to all that have replied. Its been a wealth of knowledge. Speaking of which, some of you really seem to know your history on straight razors, any suggestions as to where I can learn more? Is it just me or is the internet becoming harder to find things? There was I time I could type anything in and bam there it was, first link, no need to search further. But now days....