I did a search, but didn't find much, or maybe my search parameters were off.
Anyway, I've been using Camellia seed oil but an about out. It works, but before ordering more was wondering what everyone else uses?
Thanks.
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I did a search, but didn't find much, or maybe my search parameters were off.
Anyway, I've been using Camellia seed oil but an about out. It works, but before ordering more was wondering what everyone else uses?
Thanks.
Paraffin oil.
https://www.fendrihan.ca/products/do...traight-razors
Thanks, I'm seeing a lot of "blade" oils that are basically mineral oil. I have to wonder how well that would work?
I’ve only used paraffin oil. I put a dot on each side of the blade and spread it over the entire blade and tang with my fingers - careful not to touch the edge and cutmyself. Then I put a dot on the pivot and open and close a few times to work it into the pin area.
Even when I take a blade that’s sat a while, the oil has remained clear and comes off with a simple wipe on a towel.
Ren Wax, mineral oil, gun oi;, wd 40, Ballistrol, you name it it can be used. but i dont oil any blade unless its put up for months on end, no issue so far and Memphis is a high humidity area. the real key is dry tje blade well, i leave mine open for overnight then close and put up or reuse.
I use clippercide spray. Works great. My blades that are stored long term I use frog lube. I have used mineral oil with no issues in the past.
I use ballistol oil. A drop on each side and rub it in to cover the blade. Been using for almost 10 years now and no issues.
Camellia oil is the traditional blade oil used by Japanese swordsmiths for preserving steel blades. However, it is high in oleic acid and it will oxidize (turn rancid) over time. However, as a monosaturated fatty acid, oleic acid is less susceptible to rancidity than polyunsaturated fatty acids. For short term storage, camellia oil, or even olive oil would be suitable.
For long term storage of blades, it would be best to use either a fat high in saturated fatty acid such as coconut oil, tallow or lard, or a petroleum based oil such as mineral oil or petrolatum (Vaseline). Waxes such as Rennaisance wax are also suitable. Many gun oils, such as Rem Oil are basically a lightweight mineral oil, so they will work.
Food grade silicone spray might also work, but if you get any on the scales, you might have difficulty maintaining a proper grip on the razor.
Since the blade will be in contact with your skin, it would be best to avoid any substance that is toxic.
Just a thin coat of mineral oil.
Balistol for regular storage. The blades that get used regularly just sit in the open, so far no issues. The true rare specimens that will live unused get wrapped in VCI and placed in plastic bags with dessicant.
A thin coat of any mineral oil works.
I use whatever is on hand. Wd40, rem oil, mineral oil, gun oil, etc. Been wanting to try Ballistol or Tuf Glide.
Ballistol oil! Why didn't I think of that? I buy it by the gallon for use with black powder firearms and other uses. Normally on knives I use Renwax, but was looking for something to use after shaving and drying. I've got a bad habit of leaving my razor in the bathroom and the humidity from the shower is not good. Never had an issue with Camellia seed oil, but don't like the idea of it going rancid either. Ballistol is non toxic, water soluble, and while it might not be the best corrosion preventative out there, it should work well for my purposes.
Thanks
Since you buy so much---Pm me and I'll give you my address so you can ship me some--I'm getting low on my supple of Ballistol :roflmao:rofl2:
I don't have any problems with blades rusting her in SE Washington State but I believe in practicing those 6 P's-Proper-Planning-Prevents-Piss-Poor-Performance so I use a light coat of Ballistol on my blades just as a precaution.
I've dug out razors that I haven't used in years and the Ballistol rinses right off with hot tap water. With that said after the hot tap water, I do give the blade a squirt of rubbing alcohol and then re-rinse the blade off before stropping and shaving.
By the way---for blades that have been sanded And Or buffed--always keep some oil on the blade as 'fresh steel' will oxidize faster than steel that's had time to age a bit.
If something like Mother's Mag and Aluminum or Mass or any other metal polish is used then the oil isn't critical but remember those 6 P's----------:tu
One problem with straights is that anywhere the blade contacts the scales is a potential rust spot due to friction rubbing the oil off. So oils that rinse & wipe off easily might not be the best option. I always use Inox-MX3. In over 3 decades of straight razor use haven't found anything better. Even works on my bicycle chain.
My normal shaving routine is to nuke some water in a bowel, about 3 cups worth or so, tap water isn't quite hot enough. After shaving I dunk the blade in the hot water for 30 seconds or so to heat the steel up and then rinse off with hot tap water, it's well water so no chlorine to rust a blade, wipe dry on a clean towel and blow any moister out of the handle, and oil. Been working well so far, and now I'll be trying Ballistol lube out.
Thanks for the info, and I still don't know why I didn't think of using it before now.
Because you were too close to the problem! Weird how that happens. Had the same thing happen recently.
I've been meaning to get some ballistol as an all purpose oil and rust preventative. I know some shooters swear by it.
I got a few zerust plastabs to put with my blades/tools. Gave a few to other members and they didn't complain, so I at least know they don't hurt anything! :p
I try to dry my razors thoroughly after each use before putting them in the closet.
I've used Camellia oil in the past with great results. And I love the German miracle that is Ballistol, but it honestly smells like a wintergreen-tinged fart to me, which has become more of a deal breaker for me over the years.
So for long-term storage, I'm loving the silicone infused razor socks/sheaths these days. They work great for guns, and razors. No mess, and they allow me to put razors in the socks and just dump them in storage, with no worries about dinging them. Take them out, they're ready to go with no wiping. More expensive than Ballistol for sure, but versatile.
Ballistol is the one!
Thin coat of mineral oil.
I use the same oil, works well
Ordinary baby oil. It’s only light mineral oil with perfume added. Close to 40 razors in rotation and the oil works fine.