new razor rust

Hello all,

I bought this razor, Rasoir 275 "Le Grelot" 5/8, chasse os de buffle, from the Thiers Issard store in Thiers a few months ago and only now have gotten around to using it.

I only used it once on a ballon to practice my technique but after I used it, I put Ethyl alcohol on it and stored it in the little rectangular box it came in. Yes, I don't know why I did that. I just wasn't thinking, stupid!

I took it back out a few days later and tried to test it on my face, but I was too scared since it was so sharp. I gave up for the day and started to put it away and noticed this:
Attachment 316035Attachment 316036Attachment 316037Attachment 316038

Please don't tell me that I've already managed to ruin this over 300 euro razor already and I haven't even had the opportunity to use it on my face yet.

It’s not ruined. Try a single edge or de razor to lightly scratch the rust off. Be careful when you’re doing the spot on the gold wash. You can follow up with a pencil eraser and a little bit of tooth paste and gently rub the areas after using the razor to scrape the rust off. Don’t use any polish on the gold wash, it will come off.

It may have been the alcohol. Alcohol absorbs moisture, by trait. I also have seen this quite often with razors that have been etched, the way yours has been done. At least with the newer production razors.

I believe the chemical etching that's done today, eats away at the surface of the metal, exposing any imperfections in the steel that can't be seen by the naked eye.

Take a look at the blade with high magnification, you'll see what I'm saying.

@jfk742 - I don't know what a "single edge" or "de razor", so I will research a bit and report back.

@outback - I guess no more alcohol then. I always thought that was recommended, this is so complicated. I think I'm just going to contact the store I bought it from in Thiers and see what their specific care recommendations are.

I also forgot to mention that after I noticed the rust, I immediately put some olive oil on the entire blade since here mentioned that I can use that in a pinch:
https://www.portlandrazorco.com/blog...o-prevent-rust

I'm thinking of picking up some Camilla oil if I can get back to Japan before March. The flowers are in bloom everywhere at this time of year, so I should be able to get some fresh pressed oil or even do a tour and fresh press it myself.

Oil can trap moisture.
Don't oil a blade until it has air dried for several hours

I’m a big fan of anticorrosion emitters. You can get them from many places including Lee Valley. They are in my safe, gun cabinet, display cases and tool boxes. They last for five years, and you can also get VCI paper to wrap stored metal objects in. They work like a charm. After using and rinsing a blade I carefully make sure it is actually dry with toilet paper and them strop it and off it goes. Many people also use renwax. Oils can trap moisture.

Cleaning the blade with alcohol shouldn't hurt anything if you completely clean/dry the blade before storing. If you are near the beach, sea air isn't helping.
I use any rust inhibiting oil I have in the house. A $1 bottle of mineral oil will work. You probably have something on hand you can use.
Personally, I avoid using any oil that can go rancid. If you are regularly using the blade that shouldn't be a problem though.

You didn't ruin the blade, just gave it some character. Some of my favorite razors have a lot of character. :)


Remember, it could be worse.
Attachment 316041

Just a plain old pencil can be handy in removing small spots like that. The graphite works well to take off the rust, and because it's a pencil, it's really easy to control.

I always let mine sit open in a flower frog, till the next day. Then I can put them away without any worries.

Attachment 316043

I never oil my blades.

There Are some razors that just seem to have a proclivity to rust very easily. I've had a few. The important thing is to make sure the razor is dry, totally dry before putting it up. Some sterol or other protectant will keep the rust away.

I've had some razor's that I used one day and the next day there were traces of rust already. After those incidents I always put some sterol even if I'm gonna use it the next day.

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Originally Posted by Jacob21

@jfk742 - I don't know what a "single edge" or "de razor", so I will research a bit and report back.

@outback - I guess no more alcohol then. I always thought that was recommended, this is so complicated. I think I'm just going to contact the store I bought it from in Thiers and see what their specific care recommendations are.

I also forgot to mention that after I noticed the rust, I immediately put some olive oil on the entire blade since here mentioned that I can use that in a pinch:
https://www.portlandrazorco.com/blog...o-prevent-rust

I'm thinking of picking up some Camilla oil if I can get back to Japan before March. The flowers are in bloom everywhere at this time of year, so I should be able to get some fresh pressed oil or even do a tour and fresh press it myself.

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Avoid Camilla oil if at all possible; it gums up and becomes a real PITA to remove the longer its left on. Some here have recommended products like Tuf-Glide (I’ve been using this) or Ballistol.

Your best bet remains to ensure you dry the blade after each use, even leaving the blade out to dry for a day like many of us do.

*Edit — Also, note that 91% Isopropyl alcohol contains 9% water, so that’s the likely culprit.

If where you live has a normal level of humidity, simply drying the razor with a wipe down of the blade and between the scales using toilet paper, a little stropping to make sure the edge is dry and then leaving out open for a few hours before putting away should be all you need to prevent rust forming.

You have been given some good advice on how to try and remove rust. I would just add that etching and gold plating on razors are easily damaged/removed so a fair amount of caution when working around them is needed.

No, you did not destroy your razor. It is just not as pristine as it was but should still provide you with years of excellent service.

Bob

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Originally Posted by BobH

If where you live has a normal level of humidity, simply drying the razor with a wipe down of the blade and between the scales using toilet paper, a little stropping to make sure the edge is dry and then leaving out open for a few hours before putting away should be all you need to prevent rust forming.

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This is all I ever do, except I skip the leaving it out open part. The scales have plenty of room for air to circulate even with the razor closed. The important part is a good drying job with the toilet paper. I've never seen a problem

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Originally Posted by Jacob21

@jfk742 - I don't know what a "single edge" or "de razor", so I will research a bit and report back.

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Here you go:
Attachment 316074

Come it at a low angle with edge close to parallel with the surface you are trying scrape, tip the edge away just a little and press down towards the rust spot and gently scrape the rust spot:

Attachment 316075

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Originally Posted by RezDog

I’m a big fan of anticorrosion emitters. You can get them from many places including Lee Valley. They are in my safe, gun cabinet, display cases and tool boxes. They last for five years, and you can also get VCI paper to wrap stored metal objects in. They work like a charm. After using and rinsing a blade I carefully make sure it is actually dry with toilet paper and them strop it and off it goes. Many people also use renwax. Oils can trap moisture.

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Hmm, I’m not sure about this just yet. I think I would need to have a box like enclosure to store it in. I will look into it.

For the VCI paper, is that sold as a single sheet that I would reuse for a few years? Or is it more like Serran wrap, where you continually use new sheets?

For the renwax, is that applied after every shave?

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Originally Posted by JP5

Cleaning the blade with alcohol shouldn't hurt anything if you completely clean/dry the blade before storing. If you are near the beach, sea air isn't helping.
I use any rust inhibiting oil I have in the house.
You didn't ruin the blade, just gave it some character. Some of my favorite razors have a lot of character. :)

Remember, it could be worse.

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I live on an island, so yes, the air isn’t good for blades. What’s the story on the blade in your attachment? :dropjaw: I really hope my blade doesn’t ever turn out like that.

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Originally Posted by Cangooner

Just a plain old pencil can be handy in removing small spots like that. The graphite works well to take off the rust, and because it's a pencil, it's really easy to control.

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What’s the recommended method to take off the olive oil I used to try your method above?

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Originally Posted by outback

I always let mine sit open in a flower frog, till the next day. Then I can put them away without any worries.

I never oil my blades.

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I did a search for “flower frog razor” but didn’t get any hits. Is this something specifically made for razor storage or something you improvised?

@jfk742 : Thank you for the visuals! I think I will try this after I figure out how to remove the olive oil I used.

Thank you everyone for the encouragement though, I was really worrying about it. I will try to be more careful from now on.

Emitters work in a container for sure. The paper lasts for quite a while. It can be bought in small packages, I think the manufacture that made mine says they are good for five years. Island life can be harsh for certain. Cars and trucks here and where you are have quite a bit shorter of lifespans. Pm me if you would like a few sheets.

VCI paper is pretty cheap. I bought 500 sheets a few years ago for about $20

500 sheets is now $40 shipped.

Just look up flower frogs.

They sat in a shallow pan of water, have holes in the bottom to let water in for the bouquet of cut flowers.

Attachment 316107

Fairly easy to remove those small spots, if it were mine I would tape over the etching and then use a small amount of Flitz polish on the edge but after polishing it ma have to be honed again

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Originally Posted by Jacob21

What’s the recommended method to take off the olive oil I used to try your method above?

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I'm a fan of keeping things as mild as possible. So while something like acetone will de-oil the blade for you, I'd start with warm water and dish soap. It gets olive oil off the dishes, right?

I haven't seen anyone suggest this yet, so I'll toss it into the mix.

I've lived in coastal marshes and high mountain deserts recently. The shaving zone has experienced gross humidity including mold and mildewed cloth. My razors have had the benefit of exposure to all sorts of environments.

The variable that I think will help is Hot Water. At the very last during cleanup, I rinse the blade in hot water. These are not massive blades but the whole blade warms. I wipe everything down with a dry towel and put the razor down for the next shave. Nothing else special, no oil, no treatment. What I think is happening is the residual heat from the hot water causes any leftover water to evaporate leaving a dry blade. My experience is no rust. Now one of my stored razors gets a light wipe with G96 or Gunzilla (because the G96 smells great and these are what I have on hand.) That's it.

In all my fiddling with steel over the years, I have noticed that human beings express differences in the acidity of their skin oils. A polished knife on a table for sale will show differences in fingerprints as they have been handled. I believe that some folks can touch a blade and leave a rusty fingerprint that shows in minutes where others are easily wiped away with no appreciable marks on steel.

Renwax equals Renaissance Wax. It works. Here's a link with a lot of education. https://www.theruststore.com/Renaiss...4aArTcEALw_wcB

Maybe a slightly better wax: Walker Wax. Made by a fellow out of Eugene OR. I've had Renwax seem to gum up with long storage. It's not miserable but Walker Wax doesn't seem to do that.

Really, any good barrier to the elements that cause oxidation will do.

Lastly, as all the other good advice suggests, get over the heartbreak and learn to accommodate chaos with protective rituals. Good steel rusts. Even so-called stain resistant steels will rust if given the right conditions. To keep myself from heartbreak, I've patinated blades deliberately to prevent rust formation. But then, they are not all nice and shiny objects any longer. It comes down to what you can live with.

So far the only steel I know of that won't rust is H-1. I'm testing some knives with that steel. It's a great knife steel. I'm not sure that it will make a great razor steel however.

I do the same thing, Mike. Scalding got water to warm the blade, wipe it down with a piece of toilet paper a quick stropping and back in the drawer. The only special thing I do is to put a drop of oil in the pivot when I get a razor whether new or vintage. For 5 years I haven’t had any rust issues with razors that I’ve restored or bought. The blades in queue get a quick scraping with a razor blade to get the active rust off then a light coat of gun oil until I can get to it.

I know a barber who has a highly acidic, touch. He's got a Tupperware bowl full of razors, with the tang and stabilizers rotted with rust.

I live on the ocean in the Middle East. It gets boggier than a frog's bum in the summer.

I like silicone razor socks quite a bit. That took care of my razor spotting issues. Google silicone razor socks, there are plenty of vendors.

My wife got me a super cool razor display for Christmas I now mounted right outside the bathroom... lets my razors and brushes air dry and haven't had any issues since. Of course, we haven't hit summer yet.

In all my years as a mechanic, first I've ever heard of oil trapping water and enhancing corrosion... I mean in theory... maybe? But if that's your concern a good wipedown of the blade will displace any water. Food based oils are probably best for your skin, but yes will go rancid (I experimented with coconut oil before I tried the silicone socks... was easy enough). Just shave with it. WD-40 is of course "water displacer" and will work well, as will ballistol. Not sure about getting those on your skin though... and I'd want to wipe before shaving. Sounds a hassle.

Yes in theory and fact oil will trap moisture. This is why leaving the razor open to air dry is a great way to ensure this doesn’t happen if you oil. The only protectant I use any more is if I store my razors for a long while. Mostly let them dry then put away while I use another razor. I live in a very high humidity area and no rust. Also I’ve used WD40 a lot. Can’t say it’s affected me. But like any razor I oiled it gets wiped down. I’m sure everyone wipes down their razor after oiling before use. Dry the razor completely and you’ll be good. We see this kind of rust from new guys because they just didn’t dry it

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Originally Posted by tcrideshd

Yes in theory and fact oil will trap moisture. This is why leaving the razor open to air dry is a great way to ensure this doesn’t happen if you oil. The only protectant I use any more is if I store my razors for a long while. Mostly let them dry then put away while I use another razor. I live in a very high humidity area and no rust. Also I’ve used WD40 a lot. Can’t say it’s affected me. But like any razor I oiled it gets wiped down. I’m sure everyone wipes down their razor after oiling before use. Dry the razor completely and you’ll be good. We see this kind of rust from new guys because they just didn’t dry it

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Even if that were the case... it takes water + o2 + iron to make rust... Water and iron alone won't do it.

To each their own... I agree you shouldn't oil a wet tool, but if you're going to oil you're good after a wipe down.

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Originally Posted by HungeJ0e

Even if that were the case... it takes water + o2 + iron to make rust... Water and iron alone won't do it.

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The O in H2O is oxygen

For another solution for razor storage in high humidity environments Google "dry cabinet". You can also make on yourself.

Bob

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Originally Posted by bluesman7

The O in H2O is oxygen

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Right.! It has to be in very deep water, below the thermocline. No oxygen, there. No fish, either.!

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Originally Posted by bluesman7

The O in H2O is oxygen

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Yes... but no... conflating the molecule O2 with the element... rust requires O2 for the initial reaction to take O2 + 2 H2O -> 4OH... hydroxide goes on from there to bond with the iron and oxidize to rust...

No O2, no rust... (yes there can be dissolved O2 in water... but here we're talking a blade that's been wiped with a towel and then had oil applied... my contention is you're good... others clearly disagree...)

You do what you want. But wiping with a towel does not dry it completely. If you think it does then wipe it off and put it away. You will find no rust. But oil it and put it away. You will trap moisture. That is why we suggest to leave open and air dry. After a few hours it’s good. Fact.
Why are you oiling anyway? If you want to throw science at it you will find that yes we are giving the correct advice. But that’s all t is based n several hundred years of experience. Hell why not store your razors in a barrel of oil in a vacuum sealed chamber

I still say it has to do with the etching process. My new Dovo, and others etched like it, have rust spots like that. Under magnification, it looks like the beginning of devils spit. Getting them completely dry (hot water rinse ) then a lite coat of baby oil ( mineral oil ) has kept it from getting any worse. YMMV

I’d agree with Mike. You see this kind corrosion fairly often even on NOS razors with gold wash.

The store just responded to my email and their official recommendation is since the blade is carbon steel, I should wash the blade after use, and then apply a bit of oil such as "sweet almond oil".

They also referred me to their care guide, but it is all in French and I haven't had time to try my hand at translating it yet.

I'd still let it sit open to dry, for the day. If water is still in the pits where the rust is, and u apply oil, its trapped in there to do more damage. JMHO. From a guy who maintains nearly 200 razors.

I leave my razors open and out for a couple of hours to to dry. I then put them in a silicon razor sleeve. I live in Florida and don't have any rust on any of my razors. Don't store them in the bathroom because of the humidity.

I keep a small travel spray bottle full of auto detail spray under the sink and and after I dry the blade with my shave towel I let it sit while I finish then spritz it with the wax Detailer and then use a few squares of toilet paper to wipe dry, this process only adds another minute or two

Just FYI, you can buy silicone oil, the same stuff that’s in razor socks, by the bottle or gallon, whatever. It works very well and you ca ‘recharge’ your razor sleeves with it.

Don’t use it with wood, bone, ivory, or tortoise, unless you’re sure...

In Hawaii, near the ocean, you may want to try some preventive sealer. I have had good result with Frog Lube, buy the paste, a tub (lifetime supply) is about $12. Great for razors, knives, firearms and tools. Plant based, so no worries for razors or scales.

It was formulated for military marine firearm use, (under salt water). Follow directions, clean scrupulously, (Simple Green and wipe with paper towel with acetone or brake cleaner), heat the blade in the sun or hair dryer, brush on a lite coat, wait an hour and buff it all off. 2-3 application give more protection.