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Ive heard wedge razors are more difficult to hone, but why? Are there any resources for videos showing the difference between the razors? or at least how to hone a wedge? And lastly, is a wedge less capable of obtaining/holding a blade as sharp as a hollow? (i wouldnt think so... but if sharpening is difficult, maybe that would translate to a blade of a less keen edge)
Simply put, a wedge has a lot more material to remove when honing. That is the primary reason they are considered difficult to hone. I would say that primarily it just takes longer to hone. But I have not honed a full wedge, so I'll let someone else chime in on that.
now this is just a thought, and im pretty sure this would go for ALL blades, but how often is a wedge going to need to be completely "re ground"... i can see that after a certain period of time, the blade itself is going to become too thick to get a thin, sharp edge out of... what happens then?
I did see Bill Ellis suggest using two layers of tape on the spine of a wedge to reduce the metal needing to be removed. I'm no expert though.
Jordan
but (and im just a newb, looking to suggest ideas in hopes of learning) wouldnt using 2 layers of tape... or even 1 on a wedge, increase the hone angle so much that the blade would come out no sharper than an "out of the box" kitchen knife? you know how they always have almost symmetrically triangular edges? barely enough to cut, know what i mean? that, to me, would seem to be the biggest problem with a wedge... you would have to take down the ENTIRE side of the blade in order to get the angle necessary to sharpen it... know what i mean? or am i misinformed?
Since you are removing metal from both the edge and the spine of the razor when honing, the proper bevel angle is maintained. A regrind is only needed after excessive honing where the bevel and spine are very large and flat. A properly maintained razor wouldn't need to be reground in our lifetimes (assuming it's not being honed weekly...lol).
I may not have explained that very well, but I'm sure someone else will be able to explain it.
i see what your saying... so question, when honing down the wall of steel on the side of a wedge, how does one maintain lustre? and keep the entire blade from rusting out?
Most "wedges" are not literally triangular. They're slightly hollow ground, so you don't end up honing the face of the blade.
And that hollow area is barely recognizable until laid on a flat surface with a light on the other side!Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveS
if its that slight, wouldnt a few years (or 100 as the age of some of these relics lol) of honing wear the concave down to being flat?
Yeah, I've heard that "true" wedges are very rare. I've got a matching pair of Joseph Rodgers straights that I'd class as wedges - they have a small amount of concavity. The bevel that developed on these when I first honed them was 1-2mm wide, at a rough guess. That's a fair bit more metal removal than is required on a full hollow.
I've found honing them is more time consuming, for sure. I might be wrong about this, but I decided that it's better to sneak up on the sharpness with a wedge - overhoning and breaking off a wire-edge means more work than on a hollow (not that I go for overhoning on a hollow either...:nono: ). Once they are there, wedges give a beautiful shave, IMHO.
James.
so considering (or at least im assuming) most old blades are carbon... how does one keep it from rusting after honing both the edge, and the spine... possibly even after using an abrasive sandpaper/polish to spruce it up? am i looking at daily oiling? keeping it out of the shower? etc... ive checked around here, cant find any information on blade care of post honing on heavy duty hone jobs (wedges)
I have over 70 blades and I just make sure they are clean and dry! I rinse them after shaving or honing and then simply wipe them dry being careful of the edge. I keep my straights in the bathroom with no ill effect!Quote:
Originally Posted by Warlockdlx69
Oh, I wouldn't try and shave in the shower if I were you!
Please realize that honing does not remove some protective layer. Razors are not plated; the blades are made of homogeneous metal (usually carbon steel, but sometimes stainless steel). Fine grit "finishing" hones leave a nicely polished bevel that is smooth enough to not retain corrosion-inducing moisture. Just wipe the blade dry and you're done.
My carbon steel razors don't really rust at all, but they do develop a kind of grey patina over time, basically small areas where the shinyness gives way to darker grey colour.
It's only noticable on a Dubl Duck I've been using for a year now, I guess I might give it a polish at some point which will bring the shine back, but it's not necessary as such.
You don't need to oil them after every use. Just wipe them dry with a towel and store them somewhere warm/dry, or at least somewhere not too humid. Mine all live in a canvas roll on the bathroom shelf and suffer no ill effects. I know some folks wipe their blades down with alcohol after use, as it drives away moisture, but I never felt that I needed to do this.
Party pooper . . . think how entertaining the inevitable, "I dropped my razor while I was shaving in the shower" post would have been! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by JMS
Sanding or honing doesn't effect the rusting situation. You have to make sure you keep them dry. I store them away from the bathroom due to steam. My apt is air conditioned most of the time and I dry my razors well after each use so I don't oil them unless they are going into long-term storage. Try to keep water away from the pin area and dry them well after each use.Quote:
Originally Posted by Warlockdlx69
Jordan
:roflmao:roflmao:roflmaoQuote:
Originally Posted by SteveS
I should've known you when I lived in Willits!
my apologies, i meant "bathroom"... i wouldnt dare take a straight edge into the shower (O_O) LOL that would be tragic, as stated, if i were to drop it... God forbid im showering looking forward to a long night with the Mrs.....
so heres a question, should i wipe the blade on a dry towel like i would if i were stropping, to dry it? or would that wreck my edge?
YesQuote:
Originally Posted by Warlockdlx69
Jordan
You could do that if your careful. I just use tissue paper myself!Quote:
Originally Posted by Warlockdlx69
You know how you double up a tissue or cloth to wipe both sides of a lens in a pair of glasses? That's what I tend to do to dry my blade - spine toward the palm, of course. Just be careful of the edge.
James.
basically, just wanted to know if the towel might be too abrasive, or not stiff enough to handle touching the blade and not damaging it... :) thanks guys! seems like in many aspects, this is actually becoming easier... for some reason i was getting the impression str8s were like trying to care for a thin piece of concave glass... gotta watch everything you do with em lol glad that is not so :D
.....DittoQuote:
Originally Posted by Jimbo