I finally got my hands on some ivory. Mated with a wootz blade, a wrought iron/nickel wedge, and silver pins, this is how it turned out. Took maybe the best edge I've ever been able to put on a blade.
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I finally got my hands on some ivory. Mated with a wootz blade, a wrought iron/nickel wedge, and silver pins, this is how it turned out. Took maybe the best edge I've ever been able to put on a blade.
Now THAT is a proper razor!
looks great Joe... sold already i bet.
Wow! great work Joe!
Thats beautiful Joe.
On a scale of one to ten, one being piece of cake, ten being an absolute nightmare, how was it to work the ivory?
About a 7, I'd say. Most of it was nerves. I couldn't replace it, so I was veeeery careful with it. Stinks. Use new belts, sharp tools, and do as much as possible by hand.Quote:
Originally Posted by OLD_SCHOOL
Wonderful. I really like the wedge.
James.
That sure is purdy.
Is that recycled Ivory or is there a legit source for new stuff.
I don't think I will make any attempts at making ivory scales anywhere in the immediate future. Not until my woodworking skills improve drastically.Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Chandler
I was just curious coz I can get them in 2mm thick strips but had assumed they are too thin until seeing yours.
Must have taken a great deal of patience too, something I have very little of.
Again, beautiful work.
Quote:
Originally Posted by OLD_SCHOOL
Thank you. It's hard to tell from the picture (yes, I know my photography sucks) but for ivory, these scales are quite thick. Probably close 5/64". Now I know why ivory is so thin...the tusks are so twisted, so it's hard to cut straight pieces. lol
The wootz came out of Ric Furrer's shop. I sent Joe some ivory because a blade like that deserves a decent cover. I had this in my hands three times. First the forging, second the heat treat after Joe's rough grind, and now it's coming back home.
I'll let you know the rest...(this waiting with bated breath is for the birds)
Isn't the spine a lot thinner than usual for a blade that size?
It looks like about 8/8ish to me, but my only 2 8/8s have a fairly thick spine to end up with the usual honing angle.
Awesome Razor Joe !!!!!
:y
Lynn
Once again, I am blown away by your work.
I'm trying bone and horn scales, but I think I'll leave ivory to the pros.
It is a bit thinner than usual. The blade's actually around 7/8 though. Because of the rarity of the material, I had to make do with what I had, and she turned out to be a killer shaver (IMO) despite this. Normally I work with 1/4" thick stuff for 7/8 and up, and 3/16" for less than 7/8 blades. I've found that I can make do with thinner stuff when I have to. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Bruno
I'm not a big fan of ivory color nor of Spanish points but this razor is absolutely GORGEOUS.
The shape from the heel to the tang is mind blowing FANTASTIC !!
:bow:bow:bow
Chapeau !!:tu
very nice, Joe!
but that's nothing new.
That's the most classy razor I've ever seen.
The design seems very well focused on letting those noble materials do all the talking.
A beautiful woman doesn't need much make-up...
Congratulations Joe, you made another work of art,
Bart.
Thats superb Joe I'm not a fan of ivory ,I prefere bone myself ,But as usual you've done an outstanding job.
Your another custom maker who's on my wish list.Paul
Joe, this really is a beautiful razor. You've got the midas touch.
Another beauty. :tu
Joe,
What is the difference between Wootz and Damascus steel?
Technically, what you're referring to as Damascus isn't... Wootz is the closest thing to actual "Damascus" (historically speaking) steel. There seems to be some indication it actually originated in India, but that's debatable, as well. What you seem to be thinking of as damascus steel is more properly referred to as pattern welded steel, wherein two (or more) steels with varying carbon content and alloying elements (steels with nickel are a favorite for great contrast) are forge welded together, making a homogeneous mass with varying layers, the pattern of which can be varied by mechanical manipulation (i.e., hammering), and exposed by etching with an acid solution. The wootz is much more difficult to produce, from my understanding, and is very costly. Frankly, I don't know much about how it's produced, as Alfred Pendray has a patent on the process, and any other maker has to vary his method of production somewhat. I do know it produces a steel unlike any other I've worked with; grinds like buttah when soft, and like glass when hardened, with a very high carbon content. The grain and pattern present in the steel is not produced by varying layers, but is inherent in, and integral to, the steel itself. It's much more subtle in appearance and feel than pattern welded, and with my less than stellar photography skills :o doesn't photograph as well (by me, anyway). I have been receiving good advice on the subject of photography by some knowledgeable persons, so perhaps that will improve soon.Quote:
Originally Posted by Amyn
Great combination of materials -- gorgeous work!
as always a great lookin razor...and the scales are beautiful, how i wish to be that good...
awesome work man....:tu
simon
Beautiful work Joe!! :tu :nj
Ooo-eee. Lookit what arrived in the post today. I had to put it down long enough to try some photos to highlight the wootz pattern and help Joe explain. You can see this a little better. :D :y :tu
I'll let you know how it shaves tomorrow.
The other interesting feature is that on the top picture you can see the hardened edge compared to the spine. The pattern is more visible in the less hard areas. The light angle on the bottom picture was a little off and that didn't show up as well.
Very very nice Joe!
Joe,
Thanks for the explanation on the difference between Wootz and "faux" Damascus :)
Those pics from Mike those pictures did help in showing the grain pattern on the blade. Hopefully Mike can do a review of the blade and let us know how feels and shaves.
Fantastic!
So a few questions....
When are you going to post these on a web site with styles and costs?
AND, more importantly....
How does this one hone up and shave?!
Great work!!
(I really like the small notch at the heel of the blade and the start of the tang! Looks like a waterville cutlery style!.)
C utz
Joe sent this razor to me shave ready and the preliminary arm testing and hanging hair test were passed without difficulty.
To help the grain pattern show up better, I used a wash of nitol (a mix of low percentage nitric acid and alcohol, okay fine, I have a big steel pair too). It really shows up a lot better, but the edge took a little color change too. It was still sharp and I didn't feel the need to hone it. So, I made a few passes with white rouge on the linen until the edge was bright again, then forty passes on the leather.
This thing wipes hair right off as easily as you could dream it would. Long whiskers, short stubble, it's like the hair doesn't exist. I don't think it's so much the material really but Joe's edge prep. I've got a few others in rotation (Dovo, TI, Filli, Japanese) and this one shaves at least as good as the best without feeling like the edge has a bite to it. It's simply comfortable and I had no feeling like "okay, be careful, this one's scary sharp and when will it get me." It's still scary sharp but different. I don't know if that's a sufficient explanation, I'm not accustomed to reviewing a razor yet. If there are other specific questions, I'll try to give you my impressions.
I love this razor. I'm unlikely to scrim the handle. I like ivory bare. This thing will be expensive enough to sell without adding a five hundred dollar picture or two.
The next batch, I'm going to try to get some more buttons from a good source. I would not recommend thinking these will be less than 1500.00 USD. The material can be hard to get in satisfactory chemistry. I'd rather use reputable material as well. But, this prototype is very satisfactory and more will follow.
What a lovely piece to hold in hand.
THanks for the accompanying info