Circuitboard Scales

[Edit]: Steelforge pointed out that garythepenman put this together and told all about it in this thread. What follows is my initial discovery of this razor on a different website. :)

I was going to post this in the gallery, but it isn't my work and I don't know the guy who did it. It's publicly viewable here though:

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1174/...5d8ae3.jpg?v=0

I don't know what that board is coated with, but it looks very uncomfortable, and very uniquely geeky!

[Edit]: Steelforge pointed out that garythepenman put this together and told all about it in this thread. What you just read was my initial discovery of this razor on a different website. :)

It's different for sure, geeky.................. not, just a matter of taste.

Well I'm a geek and i love them. I think you'd have to coat the board in enough transparent something to make the scales thick enough but I'd love a razor with those kind of scales.:o

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Originally Posted by Iron_Beard

Well I'm a geek and i love them. I think you'd have to coat the board in enough transparent something to make the scales thick enough but I'd love a razor with those kind of scales.:o

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+1!! :D
Ken.

I design electronics in my day job..

Printed Circuit Boards are normally made with a fiberglass material. You can get them lots of thicknesses, but common is about 1.6mm (1/16 inch?) think. You could glue two together to build up any thinkness you want. The fibreglass is a pretty ugly translcent yellow/brown/straw colour, but the vivid green colour you see is called a soldermask and is printed onto the board and you can get it in lots of different colours.

This one looks like it was a "spare" board - it has not had any parts soldered to it as you can still see the gold flash on all the pads.

If you are going to work with this stuff, remember that the dust is nasty - just like any other fiberglass. Oh and one neat trick is that you can smooth edges etc with acetone and a cloth rather then sandpaper - it disolves the board material a little and if you do it right you can polish the edge nicely.

Cheers,
Ash.

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Originally Posted by Ashley

If you are going to work with this stuff, remember that the dust is nasty - just like any other fiberglass. Oh and one neat trick is that you can smooth edges etc with acetone and a cloth rather then sandpaper - it disolves the board material a little and if you do it right you can polish the edge nicely.

Cheers,
Ash.

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I didn't know that! I'll have to try the acetone - it doesn't have to be as uncomfortable as it looks then! Not that one's hand spends all that much time in contact with the scales anyway.

Gary Holder aka garythepenman made those. :)

Edit: Here's the original thread he posted when he made them. http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...ric-razor.html

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Originally Posted by Steelforge

Gary Holder aka garythepenman made those. :)

Edit: Here's the original thread he posted when he made them. http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...ric-razor.html

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Great memory, thanks! I should have just bumped that thread if I had known it was here :)

Moisture wouldnt be an issue?

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Originally Posted by hoglahoo

Great memory, thanks! I should have just bumped that thread if I had known it was here :)

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Heh, it was one of the first threads I replied to when I joined SRP, I almost bought that razor too! :)

Actually, I'm digging it!

Regardless of the texture of the board's surface, coating them with epoxy resin would give a solid, smooth finish....


I need to go rummage thru my junk drawers...... :hmmm:



v/r

Allen

Love the look of that razor!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ashley

Oh and one neat trick is that you can smooth edges etc with acetone and a cloth rather then sandpaper - it disolves the board material a little and if you do it right you can polish the edge nicely.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by hoglahoo

I didn't know that! I'll have to try the acetone - it doesn't have to be as uncomfortable as it looks then! Not that one's hand spends all that much time in contact with the scales anyway.

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It has been a while since I have done this, but from memory the trick is to use a cloth with a little acetone one it. You want to only partially dissolve the resin and you rub it until the acetone evaporates to get the polished effect.

You may have to watch out for the glass fibres though. They are generally a woven mat type of material so if you edge is aligned with one of the weaves, you can pull out long threads.

I guess I should add the warning that you really don't want acetone on your hands and you should do this in a well ventilated space..

One other thing, the acetone is for polishing, you would probably want to sand it to round the edges quickly...

Hope that helps.
Ash.

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Originally Posted by geoffreyt

Moisture wouldnt be an issue?

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not as long as you don't care if the board works :)

I work at the big Texas Instruments campus in North Dallas, and the TI train station here has columns decorated entirely with old PCBs, (components pulled off) and they have done quite well. the sun and the rain have faded and stained them, but I think the weathered look is very cool.