The blades I have are about 2-3/4" to almost 3" long on the edge. Does anyone make a 2" edge (no smile) with a spike point at both the toe and the heel?
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The blades I have are about 2-3/4" to almost 3" long on the edge. Does anyone make a 2" edge (no smile) with a spike point at both the toe and the heel?
Sounds downright dangerous to me. I have never seen such a razor of any length. I imagine you might be able to get one of the custom makers to do one if you really wanted it.
I think I've seen some Tosuke razors that seem to meet that criteria, but you didn't mention if you need it to fold. :D
If you do, I'd hit up a custom maker.
Sounds like you are describing DE blades to me dude :shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by Quick
Well... longer than a DE, without the corners nipped off, with some weight, a spine, a honeable edge with a bit more rigidity, and a folding handle . yes, pretty much. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by sidneykidney
I could make one out of an old blade! Or even make one from scratch... but I'm not taking orders yet!Quote:
Originally Posted by Quick
Can you give us a pic or diagram of what you're thinking of?
If I may ask, why would you want a spike point heel? When you shave, do you shave with passes that are always perpendicular to your face rather than leading with the heel?
Chris L
I've been wondering about a double spike myself. A short blade might look something like this below. The shoulder would have to be quite slanted from the spine to give a spike at the heel. My concern with this is that it would be considerably easier to nick your thumb on the heel spike.
I suspect his is a job for the custom razor makers here.
X
I hadn't thought about the thumb but I would think it would be a lot easier to knick your face with a 2" or even longer blade with a spike at both ends. :shrug:
Give it a big smile and it should be safer on your face. That doesn't change the thumb.Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyH-AD
X
Almost invariably. Only if there's some desperate situation do I take a diagonal. I have sideburns that come straight down to my jawline and meet my 1" - 1.5" wide beard that runs down my jawline into my goatee. Sideburn to beard corner is almost 90*. Same at the goatee. All the lines are straight edge straight (except the top of the goatee under my lip and the top line of my mustache) and the corners sharp. If I'm doing my right cheek I need a point at the toe to do the sideburn/beard corner and a point at the heel to do the goatee/beard corner. It's about 2-3/4" from front edge of sideburn to back edge of the mustache part of my goatee. Using only the toe of the razor to do the detail work on the corners means that I have to use the other hand across my face to get the toe pointing forward for the goatee/beard corner. If I had points on both the toe and heel I could do one side of my face without changing hands (I can do it, but it's a bit awkward and inconvenient to change hands and reach across my face). Then with a 2-7/8" to 3" edge it means that I have to lift either the toe or the heel off my face enough to clear the sideburn or the goatee when doing the top line of my beard. I can do that too but it would be easier working with a shorter edge. So.... I just thought it would be worth a shot trying something like a short blade with points at the toe and heel. I figured there would be a couple of models like that out there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris L
No smile. Has to be straight across. If you took the length off the back of the blade (more tang, less blade) then the razor would be the same overall length, maintain the balance and feel, and your thumb would be a long ways from the heel point.Quote:
Originally Posted by xman
Oh, well I've seen those on eBay. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Quick
Holy crap! This might be exactly what I'm looking for.
http://straightrazorpalace.com/aucti...15-madmen.html
and they're thinking it's a piece of **** :D
Too bad it's in the UK. Only thing I would be worried about is if someone did that on a grinder and lost the temper...
How about a Weck? They have a 2 1/4 in. blade that, although it's replaceable, can be honed
and stropped and will last indefinitely. Blades can still be purchased on *B*y or at beauty supply
shops. It probably won't appeal to the purist, but it approximates the design you have in mind
and would allow you to "test drive" your idea before shelling out some big bucks to a custom maker.
Regards - Walt
http://i464.photobucket.com/albums/r.../weckrazor.jpg
You think its in the UK do you? :rant: And here I was gonna offer to buy it for you and sell it on to you if it helped out. Not any more. :jedi:Quote:
Originally Posted by Quick
Nous ne sommes pas Francais!!!
I have a Lauterjung that has a crack by the toe... I am going to grind out and will have the very razor (maybe 2.5 inches of blade though) you describe! I will post pics when I finish it up.
Hahaha, well I knew the guy was in Lorraine? France and I knew the description was in French that I couldn't read...but it's listed on ebay.co.UK So we have a Spanish razor that some French guy is selling on UK ebay.Quote:
Originally Posted by sidneykidney
European ebays feature each other's listings at no extra charge.
Here's an Electric razor that I was talking about earlier in this thread. This came out 2.5" rather than 2, but you get the idea.
Attachment 16971
Attachment 16972
Attachment 16973
Attachment 16974
Attachment 16975
It took me about 30 minutes with the dremel: I started with 1/4" diameter barrel rough grit, and finish polished with those weird soft grey disks. It could use a bit more finesse, but it's a viable option for cracked blades.
I don't know anything about working with tempered steel. Any idea how hard/easy it is to ruin the temper? Especially towards the edge where it's so thin.
...and it just occurred to me that I am assuming all razors are tempered?
If you get really heavy handed, you can generate some heat pretty fast, BUT...
I use a variable speed dremel, and kept my fingers right by the area I was grinding so I could feel for heat build-up. Light passes and keep the contact area moving, and you will be fine. Piece of cake.
Haha. I'm inspired! I have a dremel and some skillz :D.
doh. it might be a while though. My current list:
Silver tip badger brush
New soap
New cream
DMT D8C
Shapton 1K, 4K, 8K
Shapton 16K
Throw away ebay razor for practice grind
Dovo Ebony 5/8 spike point for modification.
oh yea, got to fit the kid's Xmas presents in there somewhere....
How old are your kids? chances are if they are young enough although they'll be disappointed now in the future they won't even remember this Christmas. Tell them a smooth cheek to kiss is the present you're giving them. :D
Red
I considered that :) but I'm not sure that would substitute for a Wii. ...and the wife NEVER forgets.Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Red
Great idea! thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Red
Quick update: I just shaved with the razor above, and I have to say I liked it! A different feel for sure, and the two spike-type points make you watch your edges, but it was kinda neat.
I'll read that as "Quick [, I have an] update [for you]:" :)Quote:
Originally Posted by joke1176
Today I was trying to shave with less of a blade angle. Amazing that all these people with experience were right... less angle works a lot better and I've been shaving wrong for about 20 years now. Oh well. I'll see if I can change but I suspect it may be a lot like my golf swing -- many years of a fundamentally flawed stroke firmly ingrained in muscle memory. Shaving is more of a concious act so there may be hope. So anyway, I'm fiercly concentrating on using the very slightest of angles and carefully running down the straight-edge line of my sideburn when it dawns on me that I'm hearing extra shaving sounds. Yes, yet again I've carved a little further into my goatee with the heel. :gaah:
Could you describe the dremel excercise with a little more detail? I may have to accelerate my plans to buy a practice razor and then maybe move on to modify my first line razors. You said you used the 1/4 sanding drum? and low speed. I have some grinding drums as well. Any pointers? Did you just free hand it or did you draw a pattern first? About how much time to make the rough cut? any issues when you got towards the edge? any special edge treatment or restoration when you were done?
Actually, I just measured the drum and I used the 1/2" size.Quote:
Originally Posted by Quick
I took a fine point black permanent marker and drew the shape I wanted...and then I squinted at it by a dark background to make sure I liked the end result. I like the straight off the tang idea, so I went with that.
I move the drum the whole time, but spend more time on the shoulder since the blade wears down fast comparatively. I actually knocked the shoulder down to within 1/64" or so of my final thickness before I did the last 1/16" final contour of the blade.
I made sweeping passes, trying to keep the movement fluid, since that's the kind of curve I was looking for. I also rested the spine of the razor on the deck railing to keep it steady as I made passes, since I have shaky hands most times.
Stay away from the final blade width until you are using the finish grit, just to make sure you don't overdo it.
The rough cut took about 25 minutes, and the finishing with the grey stone disk thingy took about 5-ish.
I beveled the edges of the tang and the blade I notched ever so slightly to keep a nice feel. I would use sandpaper for this unless you are very confident in your hand skills.
If you look, you will see I eased the new corner a bit, since I don't want a TRUE spike point...hey D.E. blades do that too, so good enough for me.
Go easy, use a light touch. Think finesse, not hogging metal when you are working at the edge. The shoulder is where you can use some pressure to get the job done.
Got to say you got all the lines absolutely perfect. Toe/heel, sweep of the arc. It looks outstanding.
