Bought a Straight Razor, How did I do? (Boker Vintage)

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11-22-2008, 11:38 PM
mademperor

Bought a Straight Razor, How did I do? (Boker Vintage)

I just got back from an Antique mall and bought a razor (my 2nd). I wanted to get a razor with a non-perfect edge to practice honing on.

It was labeled $69 and oddly enough the owner was there when I was looking at it. (This place has alot of owners, so it is odd) I got him to say $50 and I said I'll think about it.

Came back and offered $40 cash (avoiding the store's cut and tax :ziplip: ) He accepted after a lot of stalling.

The razor has 2 problems I see.
1. It has a bit of rust near the pin, think it's a big problem? Can it be fixed, if so any links or tips how?
2. The handle looks to be a bit compressed and you can tell it has hit it in the past and can still. Think I can put something in between the handle to just slightly open the gap?
- Okay 3, the edge is horrible and will need to be rehoned... but I did just buy $100 of new stones + norton 4/8k

Pictures (hope they aren't to big)

http://img75.imageshack.us/img75/4227/img3530iv0.jpg

Fancy handle =P

http://img357.imageshack.us/img357/1058/img3531ic1.jpg

See how tight that gap is, think i can make that wider?

http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/2898/img3533ni3.jpg

Interesting Spine

http://img357.imageshack.us/img357/3251/img3536hy4.jpg

RUST =( How hard to you think it'd be to fix this, serious you think?

http://img380.imageshack.us/img380/3444/img3538fh5.jpg

Other Side more rust in there

http://img377.imageshack.us/img377/6393/img3540vw2.jpg
11-22-2008, 11:43 PM
holli4pirating

That is a sweet blade, and you got it for an amazing price. Bokers are amazing shavers, and I'm sure a few members will be tempted to make you offers for that blade.

Regarding the warped scales, as long as you can get the blade to close between the scales without hitting the scales, it's not a big deal. You'll also want to make sure the blade does not rest on the scales when closed.

Regarding the rust, you can go at it with a toothpick and/or q-tip, or just leave it be. If it doesn't get any worse, I wouldn't be concerned. If you do get to a point where you want to get rid of the rust and/or fix/replace the scales, you could send it out or de-pin it yourself. Again, that is personal preference, but since those look like the original scales (I've seen others with similar scales), I would be very careful in doing so.

PS: I don't see any hone wear on the spine; that might be NOS. Just a suggestion, but you might want to find a ... less valued razor to practice on and return to this when you are more comfortable. You're not likely to damage the razor while learning to hone, but you might remove more metal that you'd like in the process.
11-22-2008, 11:48 PM
nun2sharp

HEY! THATS MINE GIVE IT BACK!:w I love the size and the bladework on that Boker, that rust is minimal and will be easy to clean up, as for the scales that should also be an easy fix, just check the tutorials. When you get done cleaning it be sure to send it me.:D
11-23-2008, 12:05 AM
coachmike

Great looking razor!!!! With a little elbow grease will be a fine RAZOR!!!!
11-23-2008, 12:11 AM
Joed

Nice blade and good price :y. +1 on Holli. If you need or want help let me know. You are always welcome to call and/or stop by, once I get over this cold :(.
11-23-2008, 12:13 AM
mademperor

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joed

Nice blade and good price :y. +1 on Holli. If you need or want help let me know. You are always welcome to call and/or stop by, once I get over this cold :(.

Thanks for the tip about the antique store. 75% of the stuff there is either junk or over priced, but there was some nice stuff like this. (ebay is so pricey... There is more competition on razors on ebay then just about anything lol)
11-23-2008, 12:16 AM
Doc

that's a great razor I would not use that for honing practice! find an ebay junker for that. Come to the Boker brotherhood thread to see more bokers like that one. And welcome to the Boker club!!!
11-23-2008, 12:46 AM
mademperor

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doc

that's a great razor I would not use that for honing practice! find an ebay junker for that. Come to the Boker brotherhood thread to see more bokers like that one. And welcome to the Boker club!!!

Should I practice on my other Shave Ready one? WM Elliot, to be honest I think it could use a bit of work (and the small chip I put in it when I bought it was never fully removed I noticed)

http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/8269/img3543cy4.jpg

http://img380.imageshack.us/img380/9452/img3545sq6.jpg
11-23-2008, 01:38 AM
bpave777

Yeah, I'd send that Boker out to someone on the list to professionally hone it. As for practicing honing I'd do it on that Elliot before practicing on that Boker.

As for restoring that Boker, should be a pretty easy process. There are tons of tutorials for each of the things needed. Check out the Wiki.
11-23-2008, 01:56 AM
gugi

Yeah, nice razor and $40 for it is quite a deal. I probably would've paid the original $69.
Most definitely practice on the chipped blade.
11-23-2008, 01:58 AM
mademperor

Quote:

Originally Posted by gugi

Yeah, nice razor and $40 for it is quite a deal. I probably would've paid the original $69.
Most definitely practice on the chipped blade.

umm, both are chipped... the elliot is very very very minor... the Boker is a bread knife (I'm sure a 200 grit could take care of that though lol)
11-23-2008, 02:20 AM
Ditch Doc

That Boker is one sweet blade. I would have probably paid the list price too, 40 bucks is AWESOME! You should get some really messed up blades to practice restoring and save that one for the sweet razor pile. Send it out for honing, then later, when you have more experience, depin it, clean up that rust spot, and repin it.
11-23-2008, 02:27 AM
joke1176

Those Boker's are nice shavers and that worked spine looks awesome. You got a steal.

Personally, I use one of those steel dremel wheels. It will knock off that rust, and the hub prevents it from eating the scales, if you use the lowest RPM setting.
11-23-2008, 03:51 AM
mademperor

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ditch Doc

That Boker is one sweet blade. I would have probably paid the list price too, 40 bucks is AWESOME! You should get some really messed up blades to practice restoring and save that one for the sweet razor pile. Send it out for honing, then later, when you have more experience, depin it, clean up that rust spot, and repin it.

I'm thinking about doing a very slight restore on the Boker (using a Dremel Buff 180-320, 1-2k sandpaper)
^ for the blade
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Tools/Pa....aspx?pid=512E
(tape the handle, and leave the pin because repining is too much lol)

I haven't figured out the rust in the other part yet... lol

Then send it out to a honemaster

Then practice honing my elliot. Worst case I trash a $30 razor :o (and not my expensive $40 one :rofl2:)
11-23-2008, 04:06 AM
syslight

great blade... great price... i would have and in the past have paid more for that blade style:p

that rust is not that bad... a brass or steel dremel brush will clear the stuff up near the pin and for the rest if it what you have proposed is a bit aggressive

clean it first with either maas or fltz or turtle wax rubbing compound on a rag first to see the true condition then head to the restoration forum!

again great steal!
11-23-2008, 05:44 AM
Seraphim

Quote:

Originally Posted by mademperor

I'm thinking about doing a very slight restore on the Boker (using a Dremel Buff 180-320, 1-2k sandpaper)
^ for the blade
512E EZ Lock Finishing Abrasive Buffs 320 Grit (2 Pack) / Model: 512E
(tape the handle, and leave the pin because repining is too much lol)

I haven't figured out the rust in the other part yet... lol

Then send it out to a honemaster

Then practice honing my elliot. Worst case I trash a $30 razor :o (and not my expensive $40 one :rofl2:)

HOLD YOUR HORSES!

From the pics, there is no need for sandpaper that I can see (except for the two pivot rust locations). Don't start out getting all crazy with a dremel and sandpaper! That goes for the comment about setting the bevel using 200 grit!:nono:

Dremels can catch an edge and break your razor. They can easily overheat a localized area and ruin the edge holding temper of the steel, etc, etc.

Take a breath. That razor is a beauty.

Get a rag and some polish and rub that thing till it shines. If that doesn't produce satisfactory results, then, and only then can you begin to think about getting aggressive with it.
11-23-2008, 07:46 AM
Doc

hear hear!!!!
11-23-2008, 10:54 AM
gssixgun

+1 with what Seraphim just said

Restore + Dremel + razor = bad Mojo

There are very few parts of the restore process that really require a Dremel. In fact some of the hardest restore work I do consists of removing previous Dremel work....

Now Dremel + experience+ polish pads (after restore)= shiny razor...

Restoring a vintage razor and keeping it vintage to me is actually harder then just tearing the whole thing down and starting from scratch....
You need to start with the least aggressive system first then increase the process until you get the results you want...

Absolutely a beautiful Boker there BTW, been looking for a worked back spine Boker for myself lately...
That is a nice old gal ya got there be gentle with her....
11-23-2008, 12:38 PM
mademperor

How should I fix the rust then? Is there anything I can do about the blade not being shiny and such? Lot of dark areas.
11-23-2008, 04:00 PM
Joed

As Holli mentiond earlier use cotton swabs (Q-Tips) tooth picks with Maas. You can find Maas in Walmart. I found it in a Super Walmart in the grocery section with the other cleners and metal polish. You'll be surprised with the results. Also. as everyone else mentioned, forget about the dremmel for a while. It will not improve the shave. Lastly, when an edge is shave ready it is really really thin and will get damaged very easily. Even the slighest bit of pressure will 'dent' the edge. After your friend kept fingering the edge on our blades at the meet they needed to be touched up. This may be why the blade Karen and Holli fixed for you is dented again. Holli noticed a chip on one of my blades that I needed to use extrene magnification on to see so I highly doubt the dent was in the edge when they finished honing it for you. Also, too much pressure will roll the edge on the blade and make it appear dull. If the edge of the blade hits your finger while stropping it may get dented.

If you would like to reduce your frustration I suggest you take a deep breath and relax. Take smaller steps towards the ultimate shave experiance. Get some good shaves under your belt before you try to improve the looks of your blades. If you are really hungery to try restores and re-grinds go back to the antique shop and buy a $2 - $5 straight to play with. Everyone here is trying to give you good advice and I am sure many have experiance behind what they are saying.

In the end, the straights are your's to do with as you like. Experiance is always the best teacher.
11-23-2008, 05:21 PM
alex2363

rudy lane.com

Quote:

Originally Posted by mademperor

Thanks for the tip about the antique store. 75% of the stuff there is either junk or over priced, but there was some nice stuff like this. (ebay is so pricey... There is more competition on razors on ebay then just about anything lol)

rudy lane .com has alot of antiques, type in straight razors and you will come up with 100's of razors from shefield to dovos and antiques. some as low as 10. good to prctice on, or restore and sell.