Who would you recommend for custom straight?

Hey guys, I have been shaving for awhile with a Feather Club Artist and learning to master the technique (I do have a non "disposable" but I don't use it very much I find the Feather is better than that one and I enjoy chopping up my face on a regular basis :) ). It is a tough blade to learn on as a new blade is a sharp as it gets (i have already been pounded on this subject, so let's try to stick to topic here! ;) ). I do not want to get another used blade, and I want to get something that I will use and have forever. So, I would like to get an opinion on who would do the best job designing a custom razor for me. If you have other questions to ask me before your recommendation, please let me know and I will do my best. I would also welcome your recommendations for what I should base my criteria on. Here is what I know:

I would like to have a custom blade that incorporates the best materials. As for the blade itself, I don't have a preference for carbon or steel. What I do know is that I would probably not want to spend a ton of time on maintenance, but lasting a long time is more important than easy sharpness. I would like to have the best modern design. I don't have a preference for size but a 5/8 is probably good. If there is any reason to require a larger or smaller size I would like to know why. I have a very sensitive face, I cut easy. I don't grow beards well, I do not intend to ever have beard or mustache or goatee (couldn't grow a good one anyway!). I Like the feather club design as I find it is easy to adapt different styles to. Weight is not a huge factor, although I am used to light weight. Balance IS important. Something eye catching, someone who designs very unique blades, a TRUE artist is what I am looking for. Cost is not an issue.
Thanks for the help!

I would first try everything from wedges to singing hollows in different sizes. Once I knew my real preferences, only then would I spend a nice chunk of cash on a great custom.

Not the answer you probably wanted, but it's the only way you'll really get what you want for the long term.

JoshEarl would be one of my choices, many other good makers are out there.

Frank Warner makes some really beautiful custom razors. True works of art. If money is no object I'd look into a Mastro Livi also. Best of luck to you in searck of your new custom.

Yes, you are right about trying new styles, I probably won't want to do that. I have considered that, but after research, I am pretty convinced that the GOOD customs will be something I can adapt to. I also believe that it is likely that the hollow is the best for my face as I don't grow beards and they are probably best for my face type.BUT as long as a blade is well balanced, I can adapt to any.I have also found that IF something is well designed, at least for me, I learn to master THAT and then it becomes MY preferance. Plus, knowing me, I would go hog wild and buy a bazillion razors. Which in the long run would add a ton more cost as the customs are not cheap. So, if I am going to spend REAL money, I am going to do it right. I don't need to collect, although afterward, maybe I WILL, just for fun. This is a good point though, how about this: Can anyone tell me what they think the most important factors to consider would be IN order? I have researched this, I would be curious to see what people say. Also, does anyone have any examples (and THANKS for those who have provided some) of what THEY THINK is the COOLEST blade they have ever seen? One thing that I believe is that for ME, vintage doesn't hold the same appeal as a modern masters design with the benefit of time and artistry. Like it or not the Feather Club IS well designed, and it is difficult to master. I have even thought it woud be fun to do a contest where I sent my Feather artist around and saw if anyone could shave themselves with at least two passes without nicking themselves on a new blade ;) (I have it all worked out if there is any interest, haha)

I would personally get something like a half-hollow 6/8" to 7/8", ebony wood or Micarta, squarepoint (not spike), stainless or carbon (no preference). But that's just me.

A custom would be a great way to start too. Many will hold their value fairly well.

The coolest ones I immediately think of were the vintage restores done by Traveller or Philadelph (I like vintage razors). With so many other fine makers and restorers, I don't envy making the hard decision you have ahead of you...

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Originally Posted by JGUNS

I have even thought it woud be fun to do a contest where I sent my Feather artist around and saw if anyone could shave themselves with at least two passes without nicking themselves on a new blade ;) (I have it all worked out if there is any interest, haha)

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:hmmm: hmmm, what would the terms of the contest be... I might be willing to take a crack at it.

Well, if you're going to go all out, look around and see what you like in various razors and then ask some of the custom guys what they think they can do for you. I have a Robert Williams custom and love it (the only custom I have - so far :w). He made me what I asked for. I generally tend to prefer "elegant" razors with clean lines as opposed to say, "rustic" designs, but that's just me. I think all the custom makers you see talked about here all do great work and it would be hard to recommend one over the other.

Jordan

If you go to 'show & tell' forum here you will see various razors, many of them custom, that members have posted. You might see one that catches your eye. The 'razor clubs' here is also a place where you can see what members tend to go for in blades. Not necessarily customs but it may give you a design idea for your custom. I would venture to say from personal experience with all but a Frank Warner and LR Harner that any of the custom makers you will find mentioned on the forum make a razor you will be proud to own.

Edit; Not saying that Frank Warner and LR Harner aren't right up there but I have no first hand experience with their razors. I do with the other makers.

I could be completely wrong, and your plan probably fits your personality, but here's my $.02

Buying and trying "a bazillion" razors is half the fun! I can't imagine going from my first disposable blade razor directly to a custom. I've been buying a bunch of razors up and trying different things on my face, and I gotta tell ya- there are as many razor personalities as there are razors. Learning to love it seems to be a backwards way of going at it and a complete waste of having someone make your dream razor. It's like dreaming up your perfect woman if you've spent your entire life chained up in a basement.

At the moment my favorite is my WB 6/8 half hollow square point, but I bet that'll change before the month is out. New day, new razor.

Good luck with it, and if that's your plan, and it'll make you happy, don't let me tell you how to spend your money. Just seems like without experiencing first hand, you're handing someone a fat wad of cash and saying "I hope you'll give me something cool".

first understand that with nearly every custom maker there is a waiting list. nearly all of them make razors part time. the full time blade-smiths are tim zowada, butch harner, mastro livi, bill ellis (sorry if i missed anyone). robert williams, joe chandler, josh earl are the part-time but by no means "inferior " makers most of us are familiar with.


of all the listed the makers i have at least one razor from all but Butch Harner... mainly because i have not bought a new blade in quite a while... but soon ...

Ok... so you want a fine custom. but you don't want to try different types because you'll adapt to whatever some TRUE artist come up with. (by the way that's kind of like saying give me a Rolls Silvercloud or give me a Countach I don't care, I'll adapt). Money is no object.

Fine we got the requirements. Frank Warner, Butch Harner, Mastro Livi, Bill Ellis, Robert Williams, Josh Earl, Joe Chandler. Send them all an email saying "I would like to commission a custom razor. I don't have a preference. Do whatever YOU would really like to create. Tell me what the deposit is you require." Send a check to the first one that responds.

...and quit wasting our time. I'm sorry but you haven't made it out of 100% pure troll status with me.
Show us pics of your new custom razor and we'll all drool over it with you. You'll be a god around here.

Just took a look at Classic Shaving's website. They have some mighty fine looking Zowada's in stock here.

CS has one less of the 7/8 ebony scaled razors - it arrived in Nova Scotia today and will be tried out tonight. That makes three Zowada's that I have and I love them!

Chris

If money is no object, Jim, I would do the following: buy a nice vintage or new razor of each size and grind, have it professionaly honed, try them out for a couple of months and decide what it is that you really like. Maybe it's a 5/8 wedge; maybe a 8/8 hollow grind. Find what suits you. The Feather, being a good razor is not very flexible (as most disposable blade straights are) and flexibility is a very important issue in a non-disposable straight razor. I for instance, have mostly hollow groud razors and all are about the same size. However each and every one of them have a different feel and personality and despite the similar sizes and grinds, all give me different shaving experiences. That is something that you might be lacking because you've been using mostly one razor, no matter what razor it is. Therefore I supose that you don't know the difference between sizes and grinds, therefore not knowing what your fancy really is. Sure, one can always adapt... but I, for one, would hate to have to adapt to a thing that costed me a bunch of money and with which I am "stuck" to. That's a bummer in my book...
Once you really know what you like - for sure - you can sell the "try out" the razors you bought. Someone will buy them. You can fund the custom and be sure that what you choose or design yourself is exactly what you want. I know, I know... this is not what you wanted to hear, but since we are all friends... there's an old saying in my country that goes as follows "he who warns you is your friend..." And if you want one razor to be a lifetime piece and some sort of heiloom, what is a year or two to decide what you want?

That said, back to topic: you said that money is no object. That is great; it gives you a lot of space to decide. If I were in your position I would order not one but a set of two matching razors, custom made. That is both practical and valuable. You would need two razors anyway, I guess... and that constitutes a plus in both value and heirloom-ity (that is not a word...). My choice would be, at this precise moment, a Mastro Livi. I guess... There are plenty of razor-smiths out there that would, for sure, create a masterpiece for you. But my personal choice would be a set of two razors, mathing exactly or having, each one, a distinct set of features but with a classic look. I would stay away from any "spacey" feature, snake-like appearence or whatever. I'd want a spike point, 6/8, carbon steel (maybe damascus steel) with real tortoise scales. Each one of the two would have some distinct feature. And I'd like to have them in a nice, small size, elegant box made for them. But that's me...

Good luck and take care!

Fp, yes alas you are correct. My impatient nature can sometimes be unreasonable. However reponses by you and others had convinced me to get a couple different designs to try, as by the time I got back here to read the responses I already had several on order. However, I am still going to be moving forward with Tim Z. It will take time and I will be working with a master so I am sure that he will have great advice as well. But I like the responses I am getting because things that are important to some are not to me, but some that I hadn't considered are getting re consideration, so this is good. I know that everything can be found on this board by search, but that would not be any fun now would it? And it is always good to refresh opinions.

Anybody want to take me up on my Feather Club contest? :D I chopped my face good yesterday on a new blade, but only a few nicks this time. I am thinking that soon I will be getting a sponsorship from Feather and traveling the world, and I will only have one or two pieces of toilet paper stuck to my face when I have to meet a new Head of State! The Japanese are going to be SOOoo Lucky! I would love to see the person's technique that can do at least a two pass shave with it on a new blade with no cuts. I am sure that there are many, but there is just no vid on those blades. That is an unforgiving edge. ;)

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Originally Posted by JGUNS

Fp, yes alas you are correct. My impatient nature can sometimes be unreasonable. However reponses by you and others had convinced me to get a couple different designs to try, as by the time I got back here to read the responses I already had several on order. However, I am still going to be moving forward with Tim Z. It will take time and I will be working with a master so I am sure that he will have great advice as well. But I like the responses I am getting because things that are important to some are not to me, but some that I hadn't considered are getting re consideration, so this is good. I know that everything can be found on this board by search, but that would not be any fun now would it? And it is always good to refresh opinions.

Anybody want to take me up on my Feather Club contest? :D I chopped my face good yesterday on a new blade, but only a few nicks this time. I am thinking that soon I will be getting a sponsorship from Feather and traveling the world, and I will only have one or two pieces of toilet paper stuck to my face when I have to meet a new Head of State! The Japanese are going to be SOOoo Lucky! I would love to see the person's technique that can do at least a two pass shave with it on a new blade with no cuts. I am sure that there are many, but there is just no vid on those blades. That is an unforgiving edge. ;)

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I can just imagine us all making videos for YouTube. Standing at the sink; wearing shirts with logo patches and looking like NASCAR drivers. Hey, why not? Don, would SRD like to sponsor me? :D

Jordan