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I posted a thread earlier about what oil to use for protecting a razor and sewing machine oil was one of the options that you guys came up with. So I got som oil and oiled my razor..but now what!?:eek: The oil refuses to stick on the metal..you know it's almost like watering a newly waxed car. The oil does not form a protective film on the blade but rather messy drops that don't seem to do any good as it does not cover the whole blade just a few patches.
Any Ideas?:shrug:
I don't recall ever actually seeing sewing machine oil before. Is it thin? Maybe it coated what it had to and then beaded up where it could. What did you use to spread it around with? Try running some cold water on it and see how the water reacts on the surface after you oil it. If it beads up all over, then maybe it just leaves a thin coat.
Have you done any work on the razor? Maybe there is something on the surface that doesn't mix with oil. I've tried flitz a couple of times and noticed that it didn't rinse off with water. I'm not sure if that could be the case with oil or not.
Not unusual. It should have left a thin coat on though, even if the excess oil is beading up. If this bothers you, you can also use a thin motor oil, which contains detergents that should help reduce the beading effect. I've used 3-in-1, baby oil, honing oil, 30-wt, as well as the Dovo Sterol and the Tuff-Glide stuff, and they all seem to work beading or not. Just don't use WD-40 unless you like rust.
I use tuf-glide and after putting a few drops at the pivot and blade I spread it around with a q-tip. The oil could run off if held at an angle before i spread it around.
How much oil are you using? I put a single drop of camellia oil on each side of the blade after it has been thoroughly dried and rub it in (always going toward the edge of the blade). Then using the excess on my fingers to wipe the tang and tail. It doesn't take a lot of oil to lay down a protective layer. You may be using too much and the excess oil is just beading on top of the required coating.
Regards - Walt
I put some mineral oil on a piece of folded up toilet paper, then wipe the blade on it. Seems to put a thin even coat across the blade.
Lynn (and I assume Don) uses Camellia oil when they ship razors.
What I use is a product that unfortunately seems to be unavailable now. It is called R.I.G. (rust inhibiting grease). I have an Outer's Silicone Gun Cloth impregnated with the stuff and it is great for insuring that my razors and whatever else don't rust.
I have been using nyoil for cameras and lenses for years and it seems to work for razors, too.
Thanks for the answers and suggestions..
I also use paper tissue to apply the oil. I first put a few drops, max 3 drops, on the blade and then wipe it over the whole blade with the paper.
I still really don't know what it could be but I'm in the quest for some camellia oil..any suggestions where I can get it at a good price? Btw how much do I need really?
Are you having problems with corrosion/longevity or just the application?
Woodcraft sells it in a big spray bottle.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rawaz
It's just the application, the razor is new..I got it in december and I have used it max 5 times.Quote:
Originally Posted by crazycliff200843
Cheers..but they don't ship outside cont. U.S.:gaah:Quote:
Originally Posted by Seraphim
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slartibartfast
Same here. :tu
You can also use castor oil or get some camellia from www.bessermesser.de
It is really good.
I could ship you some--how much do you want?Quote:
Originally Posted by Rawaz
I use motor oil on the pivot area. I always seem to get water in there and it worries me. I recently rescaled a razor and there was no corrosion there at all, so either I shouldn't have worried in the first place or my motor oil is doing the job.
I use olive oil on the blade itself, figuring I don't want to get motor oil on newly shaved skin. I'm sure it doesn't really matter but I happened to have a bottle of it handy when I first thought about oiling razors so I have stuck with it. Stops rust just fine.
I use air tool oil....it works great. Thin enough for oil hones too. Rem Oil for guns would also work great on the blade/pivot it coats real even but cost way more.
Air tool Oil.... - Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
Ballistol is good - lots of stockists in Germany and EU. You don't have to bother getting it all of, either - like camellia, it is skin-friendly. It is thinner than camellia (which I used to use) and flows a lot better.
Regards,
Neil.
Yes but it smells and its said to not being too friendly with brass.
It takes very little machine oil sewing machine/3in1 a drop or less will cover the blade. I wipe/spread the oil with my finger and thumb to a very thin film of oil.
I never have a problem with the oil beading up. Do you have some residual film left over from buffing compounds on the blade?
Charlie
It does have a strange sort of smell, I admit. I didn't like it at first, but it has grown on me. It doesn't smell quite as bad as camellia that has gone rancid!Quote:
Originally Posted by 0livia
If I ever get a brass razor, I'll introduce it to the ballistol gently and make sure they shake hands before I leave them alone...:)
Regards,
Neil
LOL thats very polite of course.
DE razors will be quite greatful and pins, too.
With all this oil talk is it a good idea to put oil on the blade after every shave or is it something i should do when im not going to use the blade for a while.
I use a mixture of coconut oil and olive oil in a small bottle. When I finish that I will use olive oil. I read that is what they used in the Middle Ages. If it was good enough for King Arthur it is good enough for me.
keep it simple and cheap, i use olive oil