Is Rubbing Alcohol ok for a Straight Razor?

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03-24-2010, 06:08 PM
Larzz

Is Rubbing Alcohol ok for a Straight Razor?

Hey there everyone,
For those of you who read my introduction thread in the beginner's section, you saw the pictures of the brand new razor I accidentally ruined when I took the advice of a Dovo employee and soaked the carbon steel straight razor in a diluted white vinegar & water solution which in turn completely ruined the razor causing it to rust.
My previous thread - http://straightrazorpalace.com/membe...-everyone.html
displays pictures of the razor, and the whole story behind it.

Anyways, I would like to know if using rubbing alcohol on the blade and scales would be ok to sterilize the straight razor, or would this pose any threat of causing the blade to rust, or ruining the scales?

Thanks everyone :)
03-24-2010, 06:14 PM
CarrieM

I guess my first question to you is why do you feel like you need to sterilize the blade? Once the blade is completely dry there isn't any micro organisms that can survive on steel.

In answer to your question, you can wipe the blade down with alcohol and let air dry. I wouldn't soak it in it though.
03-24-2010, 06:24 PM
BKratchmer

Alcohol will be fine on the blade, but it might oxidize some hard-rubber scales. I'd test it on a small spot before doing the whole thing.
03-24-2010, 07:13 PM
6Myles

It discolored one side of my scales on a razor a bought from Sham awhile back. He said it did it when he laid it in a tub of alcohol, but it must have only come up the blade b/c the other scale is perfect.
03-24-2010, 07:18 PM
sproosemoose

Hi

I am so confused because in the Wiki there is a Sterilization apge - and at the top it says do not do this it will ruin your razor then it says how to do it.

The reason I want to know as well is because if I buy a razor 2nd hand and want to clean it I would be clueless.

Thanks
03-24-2010, 07:28 PM
hoglahoo

that's a very strange article for a straight razor wiki if the disclaimer is true
03-24-2010, 08:20 PM
Obie

Rubbing Alcohol . . .

Ladies and gentlemen:

Through the years, when cleaning and sterilizing razors, I have come to depend on nothing but soap and hot water — and a good scrubbing.

Regards,
Obie
03-24-2010, 08:23 PM
BKratchmer

If you want to sterilize a second hand blade, I highly recommend Barbicide... inexpensive, professional, kills EVERYTHING. Just soak the blade for 10 mins, rinse, dry, and it's sterile.
03-24-2010, 08:31 PM
sproosemoose

Can I put the scales in also?
03-24-2010, 08:33 PM
BKratchmer

It really depends on what the scales are- I think it would be quite a gamble. Unless you are rubbing the scales all over open wounds, however, I wouldn't worry about it.
03-24-2010, 11:15 PM
John Crowley

Quote:

Originally Posted by CarrieM

I guess my first question to you is why do you feel like you need to sterilize the blade? Once the blade is completely dry there isn't any micro organisms that can survive on steel.

In answer to your question, you can wipe the blade down with alcohol and let air dry. I wouldn't soak it in it though.

I agree with this comment!
03-24-2010, 11:18 PM
John Crowley

Quote:

Originally Posted by Obie

Ladies and gentlemen:

Through the years, when cleaning and sterilizing razors, I have come to depend on nothing but soap and hot water — and a good scrubbing.

Regards,
Obie

That is all I ever use is dishwashing soap and hot water. Alcohol won't hurt anything as long as you dry it off but isn't any better than soap and water.
03-25-2010, 05:02 AM
Larzz

4 Attachment(s)

ok wtf is going on here?

Ok, I just got the new razor, and used a Q-tip dipped in 70% rubbing alcohol and swabbed the blade quickly before first use, and wiped it clean with a dry towel. Then proceeded with the shave making sure to not get any water on any other portion of the razor other than the blade to merely rinse the lather off between strokes. I also made sure to keep my hands dry and not allow moisture to get into the scales.

As soon as I finished the shave and dried the blade to get it ready to apply mineral oil before putting it away, I noticed this spot had popped up miraculously! WTF!? :banghead: Can someone please explain this? Here are the best pictures I could manage to take with my camera.

I don't know if this is the start of a rust spot or what....
03-25-2010, 05:23 AM
mrsell63

Quote:

Originally Posted by Larzz

Hey there everyone,
For those of you who read my introduction thread in the beginner's section, you saw the pictures of the brand new razor I accidentally ruined when I took the advice of a Dovo employee and soaked the carbon steel straight razor in a diluted white vinegar & water solution which in turn completely ruined the razor causing it to rust.
My previous thread - http://straightrazorpalace.com/membe...-everyone.html
displays pictures of the razor, and the whole story behind it.

Anyways, I would like to know if using rubbing alcohol on the blade and scales would be ok to sterilize the straight razor, or would this pose any threat of causing the blade to rust, or ruining the scales?

Thanks everyone :)

_____________________________________
________________________________________

Larzz
Vinegar is a mild organic acid known as acetic acid but is nonetheless an acid. Acid can destroy. It is used to dissolve lead. Thank the Lord you didn't dip your razor in Nitric or Sulfuric or Hydrochloric acid.

Several members recommended soap and water and you will always be safe with this combination. Dry your razor well and oil with mineral oil or camelia oil or maybe WD-40, And I guess baby oil would be good also. NO ACID of any kind.

Next time you get a brainstorm, run it up the old flagpole and see who salutes it. There are many knowledgable members here and they will stop you from doing something you might regret later.:)
03-25-2010, 06:21 AM
niftyshaving

Quote:

Originally Posted by Larzz

...............
Anyways, I would like to know if using rubbing alcohol on the blade and scales would be ok to sterilize the straight razor, or would this pose any threat of causing the blade to rust, or ruining the scales?

Thanks everyone :)

Rubbing alcohol followed by a thin application of mineral oil to sanitize (not
sterilize) is commonly used (and so is shaving soap and hot water).

Alcohol will strip any oil from the surface of the steel and then steel
will quickly rust right before your eyes so you must apply a thin layer
of oil promptly to keep the rust bunnies at bay.

WD-40 displaces water and can help keep the steel under
the scales near the pins dry and with a small application of
oil rust free. i.e. Oil the entire blade.

Mineral oil (USP) and WD-40 top my list of post alcohol products
with mineral oil topping the longer storage list. For long storage,
gun oil and 3-in-one oil.come to play. I do like the way WD-40 wets
steel and wipes off leaving almost no goo. Other good oils can
be found in barber shops for lubricating clippers and even sewing
machine oil.

Mineral oil (pharmacy grade) is safe and can even be eaten. :idea:
where its lubrication properties can astound.... READ THE LABEL!....
Laxative (Oral Route) - MayoClinic.com
03-25-2010, 07:53 AM
Jsteele

Quote:

Originally Posted by Larzz

Ok, I just got the new razor, and used a Q-tip dipped in 70% rubbing alcohol and swabbed the blade quickly before first use, and wiped it clean with a dry towel. Then proceeded with the shave making sure to not get any water on any other portion of the razor other than the blade to merely rinse the lather off between strokes. I also made sure to keep my hands dry and not allow moisture to get into the scales.

As soon as I finished the shave and dried the blade to get it ready to apply mineral oil before putting it away, I noticed this spot had popped up miraculously! WTF!? :banghead: Can someone please explain this? Here are the best pictures I could manage to take with my camera.

I don't know if this is the start of a rust spot or what....

I believe it is a water spot.It is common for spots like that to pop up. Especially in humid places. I have that problem a lot. I live in a very humid area. Once i am done shaving,i rinse the razor in hot water and i dry it off GOOD. It is very important to make sure the razor and scales are totally dry(especially the inside of the scales). If a spot shows up? and they do,i use Maas to take it out. But be VERY careful using it on your blade. It will take off the etching wash. So use a cotton swab and watch that you do not go near the lettering. Good luck and enjoy the shaves
03-25-2010, 12:10 PM
Stubear

All I've ever used is soap and water. It seems to work well enough!

The only oil I've ever put on a blade is WD-40, as it keeps the water out and wipes off really easily.

Larzz, that mark on your razor should come off with MAAS and a Q-tip. I occasionally get them on some of my razors and they come off pretty easily..!
03-25-2010, 10:15 PM
sproosemoose

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stubear

All I've ever used is soap and water. It seems to work well enough!

The only oil I've ever put on a blade is WD-40, as it keeps the water out and wipes off really easily.

Larzz, that mark on your razor should come off with MAAS and a Q-tip. I occasionally get them on some of my razors and they come off pretty easily..!

Isn't WD40 for like helping with roller blades or a rusty door?

If you spray your razor with that on the blade then shave I can't imagine it would be too kind on your face unless you got it all off somehow, but I imagine there will be some on the blade edge still. So this is really confusing to me.
03-25-2010, 10:53 PM
niftyshaving

Quote:

Originally Posted by sproosemoose

Isn't WD40 for like helping with roller blades or a rusty door?

If you spray your razor with that on the blade then shave I can't imagine it would be too kind on your face unless you got it all off somehow, but I imagine there will be some on the blade edge still. So this is really confusing to me.

Do recall that after fully drying to the next day the cutting
edge itself will have been wiped again some 20 times on
the canvas side and +20 times on the leather side.

Still, your point is well taken which is why so many like mineral
oil. Mineral oil has the advantage of being inexpensive,
orderless and does not gets spritzed all over the bathroom causing
the misses to complain that it smells like a machine shop.
03-26-2010, 05:10 PM
Larzz

Quote:

Originally Posted by niftyshaving

Do recall that after fully drying to the next day the cutting
edge itself will have been wiped again some 20 times on
the canvas side and +20 times on the leather side.

Still, your point is well taken which is why so many like mineral
oil. Mineral oil has the advantage of being inexpensive,
orderless and does not gets spritzed all over the bathroom causing
the misses to complain that it smells like a machine shop.

@sproosemoose:

Also, if you take a look at the Mineral Oil (USP) U.S.P. stands for United States Pharmacopeia, which means that it's medically safe. Infact, the main use for mineral oil is supposed to be as an intestinal Lubricant/Laxative. Hence why you find mineral oil in the pharmacy section of any department store like wal-mart.
Mineral oil is actually really neat stuff... It's uses go way beyond just a laxative. It can also be used to protect metal from rusting, and also as a wood conditioner among many other uses... I highly recommend reading up on it at wiki. Here is a link to the mineral oil section on wikipedia.
Mineral oil - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Also, I'm assuming baby oil would be ok to use as a rust preventative as well considering baby oil is nothing more than mineral oil with added scent.

Personally, I wouldn't use WD-40 first and foremost because it's simply not the best oil out there... I shoot pistol competitively and gun enthusiasts know to stay away from using WD-40 on their guns because it's a low grade oil that eventually gunks up and attracts dust. This is not good when you are dealing with moving parts or folding knives that move on hinges.
For guns I stick with break-free gun oil. It's a much higher grade of oil. Even 3-in-1 oil isn't bad either. But as far as straight razors are concerned, straight razors are instruments that are used on your face, and often times can nick the skin, and I wouldn't want WD-40, break-free, 3-in-1, or any other type of synthetic oils anywhere near my face. That is why I would stick with regular mineral oil USP from the pharmacy. Since it's safe to drink and use as a laxative, it would be ok if it comes into contact with your face. And once again, it's approved by the United States Pharmacopeia.
For more info on the USP, check out the wiki page on USP at
United States Pharmacopeia - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
03-26-2010, 08:51 PM
niftyshaving

Quote:

Originally Posted by Larzz

@sproosemoose:

Also, if you take a look at the Mineral Oil (USP) U.S.P. stands for United States Pharmacopeia, which means that it's medically safe.
......
And once again, it's approved by the United States Pharmacopeia.
For more info on the USP, check out the wiki page on USP at
United States Pharmacopeia - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

+12 on all except a caution about the above.
Some very nasty chemicals are tabulated in the USP.

USP is a standard of purity but the medical safety part
is not a given. A quick lookup of various arsenic
compounds will make my point.

Still mineral oil is a good thing for razor steel. Just
wipe and rinse the blade clean prior to use. Since the
ingredients in WD-40 are secret wipe and rinse twice :)
03-27-2010, 02:28 AM
Vnam68

Wipe it down with hydrogen peroxide. Then wipe it dry and put your mineral oil on it.
03-27-2010, 02:44 AM
BKratchmer

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vnam68

Wipe it down with hydrogen peroxide. Then wipe it dry and put your mineral oil on it.

Peroxide is a strong oxidizing agent! Your razor will not be the same color when you finish with this procedure... use at your own [tremendous] risk.
03-27-2010, 03:43 AM
onimaru55

Some high carbon steels rust quicker than others. How long did your shave take ?
It is possible your blade was wet long enough to get some rust happening.
Keep on top of it with a mild metal polish & keep it oiled.
Absolutely no contact with acids or any oxidisers.
Does anyone know for sure the "scents" in baby oil are safe on carbon steel ?
I use an Aussie made WD spray called "Inox". It is food safe & I spray my carbon steel kitchen knives with it too.
03-27-2010, 05:03 AM
Larzz

Quote:

Originally Posted by niftyshaving

+12 on all except a caution about the above.
Some very nasty chemicals are tabulated in the USP.

USP is a standard of purity but the medical safety part
is not a given. A quick lookup of various arsenic
compounds will make my point.

Still mineral oil is a good thing for razor steel. Just
wipe and rinse the blade clean prior to use. Since the
ingredients in WD-40 are secret wipe and rinse twice :)

You are right about the purity part. Because something yields the "USP" label, doesn't necessarily mean it's ok to ingest. But if you know the product your buying is meant to be ingested in the first place, then seeing that USP label means your getting the highest regulated form of that substance...In this case, mineral oil.
05-22-2013, 04:38 AM
dfussel

I had plastic scales and the alcohol broke the scales. I would not let the scales soak in rubbing alcohol.
12-17-2013, 01:35 AM
rhensley

I've used alcohol to get rid of water in the pin area. I also wipe clean with a tissue and re-oil with a good mineral oil. I get the oil from the straight razor place. when shaving and rinsing the blade some times water will find it's way in the pin area and other places. just wipe with a tissue a little alcohol in the pin area and re-oil. anyway that's what I do. WD40 will get rid of water but like others said I don't want it on my face.
12-28-2013, 05:47 PM
robert2286

Is Rubbing Alcohol ok for a Straight Razor?

Rubbing alcohol does not rust!!! It will completely strip the oils from your blade... Leaving it unprotected ! I use alcohol often to clean my razor and then apply camila oil when the blade dries! Barbacide for sterilization for sure...and like mentioned above... It helps with the drying of the blade
12-28-2013, 08:15 PM
Phrank

Quote:

Originally Posted by BKratchmer

If you want to sterilize a second hand blade, I highly recommend Barbicide... inexpensive, professional, kills EVERYTHING. Just soak the blade for 10 mins, rinse, dry, and it's sterile.

When I first get a used blade, I will soak it in Barbicide for the required ten minutes, then wipe off. As for the scales, it says you can put them in Barbicide and it won't discolor, but I don't take the chance, just hang the blade itself in the solution.

After that, it's my blade, proper rinsing with hot water, drying between the scales, and letting it air dry is enough. I"ll also place a drop or two of Tuf-Glide in the pivot area, as thats an area prone to rust IME.
12-29-2013, 03:59 PM
Splashone

Quote:

Originally Posted by robert2286

Rubbing alcohol does not rust!!! It will completely strip the oils from your blade... Leaving it unprotected ! I use alcohol often to clean my razor and then apply camila oil when the blade dries! Barbacide for sterilization for sure...and like mentioned above... It helps with the drying of the blade

I use alcohol on my blade after every shave to speed evaporation of any remaining water. I have mine in a small spray bottle, immediately dry the blade, let it air dry while I get dressed then strop and hit it with silicone. Contaminated alcohol can and will promote rust. Alcohols have a tremendous ability to mix with and carry water. That water will cause rust if allowed to hang around. Keep your bottle tightly capped and do not soak your blade in it.

I use silicone spray for a rust preventative. Many brands are labeled as safe for incidental food contact and if that puts you off, food grade is widely available. I do not allow alcohol or silicone on my scales.
12-29-2013, 07:11 PM
robert2286

Quote:

Originally Posted by Splashone

I use alcohol on my blade after every shave to speed evaporation of any remaining water. I have mine in a small spray bottle, immediately dry the blade, let it air dry while I get dressed then strop and hit it with silicone. Contaminated alcohol can and will promote rust. Alcohols have a tremendous ability to mix with and carry water. That water will cause rust if allowed to hang around. Keep your bottle tightly capped and do not soak your blade in it.

I use silicone spray for a rust preventative. Many brands are labeled as safe for incidental food contact and if that puts you off, food grade is widely available. I do not allow alcohol or silicone on my scales.

Agree 100%! I do the same but use camila oil instead of silicone! We clean wire harnesses and canon plugs at my job with alcohol as well
12-04-2023, 04:25 AM
Pedigree

Bump, would wiping the razor (blade, not the scales obviously) down with regular store-bought alcohol help with evaporation and prevent oxidization?
12-04-2023, 09:42 AM
randydance062449

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pedigree

Bump, would wiping the razor (blade, not the scales obviously) down with regular store-bought alcohol help with evaporation and prevent oxidization?

IMHO I would say that it would help with the evaporation of water but not prevent oxidation. You have to protect the blade from the moisture in the air (humidity).

Just my 2¢ :)
12-04-2023, 10:34 AM
outback

Rubbing Alcohol has a tendency to attract water/ absorb. Best to stay with ethyl alcohol for sterilization. ( hand sanitizer)
12-04-2023, 11:35 AM
RayClem

There are two types of isopropyl alcohol that can be purchased. One is common 70% rubbing alcohol that is 70% alcohol and 30% water. In this concentration, the alcohol will evaporate more rapidly than the water leaving behind a film of water on your razor. This is NOT what you want to occur as it can lead to corrosion of a carbon steel blade. However, for disinfecting purposes, it is better because the alcohol evaporates more slowly at that concentration. Thus, alcohol wipes used for medical purposes will be 70%.

The other type is 91% isopropyl alcohol. That concentration is a azeotrope. That is a fancy term that means that at that concentration the alcohol and water will evaporate at exactly the same rate such that no water will be left behind. That is ideal for razors. You can also mix the 91% alcohol with mineral oil. The alcohol and water will evaporate leaving behind a thin layer of mineral oil to prevent corrosion. If you have a large collection of blades, this is an ideal way to preserve your collection.
12-04-2023, 12:43 PM
rolodave

Ray is correct.
I keep a bottle of Everclear in the garage
12-04-2023, 04:58 PM
Pedigree

Quote:

Originally Posted by RayClem

There are two types of isopropyl alcohol that can be purchased. One is common 70% rubbing alcohol that is 70% alcohol and 30% water. In this concentration, the alcohol will evaporate more rapidly than the water leaving behind a film of water on your razor. This is NOT what you want to occur as it can lead to corrosion of a carbon steel blade. However, for disinfecting purposes, it is better because the alcohol evaporates more slowly at that concentration. Thus, alcohol wipes used for medical purposes will be 70%.

The other type is 91% isopropyl alcohol. That concentration is a azeotrope. That is a fancy term that means that at that concentration the alcohol and water will evaporate at exactly the same rate such that no water will be left behind. That is ideal for razors. You can also mix the 91% alcohol with mineral oil. The alcohol and water will evaporate leaving behind a thin layer of mineral oil to prevent corrosion. If you have a large collection of blades, this is an ideal way to preserve your collection.

Thank you for clarifying!