restoring a "jubilo" Solingen

First post, I've been reading a bit trying to find information on this SR but haven't come up with anything. I'm fixing it for a friend of mine, he chipped the blade cutting open a box with it. I told him i would fix it for him only if he wouldn't abuse it like that again :nono:

I'm planning on cleaning up the oxidation and breadknifing the blade on wet/dry sandpaper to remove metal up to where the chip is. with any luck the blade is salvageable and might still be able to take a shaving edge, but we'll see.

Anyway, to my actual question...I was googling on trying to find out how to remove the oxidation without damaging the gold on the blade but from what i can tell the only way to remove the oxidation is to buff it out losing the gold finish. Is this right?

I know this thing probably isn't worth much but i like to keep things original as much as possible. When the piece was made, someone felt that this is the way it should look and I like to respect that about hand made workmanship.

any and all help appreciated! here are some pictures i just pulled off my phone...the scales feel like plastic, the blade has "hand forged" on the convex part and on the spine part it says "no 65. germany, solingen"

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...312_092136.jpg

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...312_092223.jpg

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...314_222051.jpg

You could try to work around the goldwash, but just about any abrasive will remove it.

I would not breadknife it. With chips like that I lift the spine off the hone/sandpaper a bit and do circles until it is gone. Much easier to reestablish a bevel later this way.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Slartibartfast

With chips like that I lift the spine off the hone/sandpaper a bit and do circles until it is gone.

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Thanks for the information! the blade is hollow ground on both sides, and only has lettering on the front so i'll try to work around that but the goldwash on the spine part is going to go away with a buffing, too much oxidation to really restore it.

My most aggressive hone is a 1200 grit waterstone so i'll try the circular motion tip on that and if it's taking to long i'll switch to sandpaper. that motion makes more sense for putting an edge on the knife afterwards.

Many thanks! I like your screen name too, you seem like the type of guy that knows where his towel is :beer1:

Check out Glen's video on youtube (gssixgun) breadknifing one of my blades. He makes it look easy, but he's got years of experience.

He had all the dings out within 10 or so minutes and within 15 he had a bevel set.

No disrespect to anyone, his technique seems the most effective and puts to shame any sandpaper plan.

Just my opinion. YMMV.