First clean up, advice needed

Hi guys, picked up a Puma 52 on here a few weeks back, Fantastic shaver, was a little watermakred however. Not that this was a problem, as there was no rust or pitting. The pic of it is here:

http://straightrazorpalace.com/show-...-straight.html

hard to see the watermarking (thats how slight it is)

So i figured today that i have to learn to clean sometime, so i went and got some autosol and started to work on it, making sure to stay away from the edge.

Started with a Q-tip rubbing it in, and the cream was turning black so definitely lifting something. but had marks left, so moved up to a Microfibre cloth and a little more autosol (still keeping the cream away from the edge) still turning black, but having a hard time removing the staining. Now as this is my first time i have to ask, is using autosol usually quick and fast or does it require a lot of work? i've been at it for 30 mins now. Do i need to move up to sand paper maybe?

also, these have the original scales and would like to keep them that way, is autosol detrimental to plastic? i'm keeping the cream well away just in case but would like to get at the pivot with a Q-tip or floss. Is this something to leave for when the scales are off?

cheers

Simon

I've never used autosol personally, but by the look of the blade from your other post, I wouldn't go to sand paper with this one, just keep at the polish until you are happy with the finish. Floss will work for getting in around the pivot area.

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Originally Posted by Adam_MA

I've never used autosol personally, but by the look of the blade from your other post, I wouldn't go to sand paper with this one, just keep at the polish until you are happy with the finish. Floss will work for getting in around the pivot area.

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Unfortunately I'm stuck with a phone cam at the minute so it's hard to get an idea of the blade, like i said this seems to be patination, but i was hoping to get the blade cleaned off completely with no water marks. While the dicolouration is fasing, it seems to have reached a removal "plateau".

Am happy enought ot use floss but was wondering if the autsol in conjunction with it would react with ths scales plastic in a bad way?

Wish I could help with the autosol, i'm sure someone else will chime in. I usually only use Flitz or Mothers, and neither of those have had reaction to the scales. Actually, the Mothers works well to polish scales.

I've been think about this, i thought today i might give the autosol and a spare toothbrush a go. Should work in between the scales and the jimping too. What do you guys think? Also i should have mentioned in the original post, i have no power tools or specialist equipment etc

I use a brush designed for gun cleaning to work the hard to get areas. I use one like this Otis Gun Cleaning Brush Double Ended Nylon Package of 3 - MidwayUSA
The bristles are a bit stiffer, and they seem to get into the little places better than a regular tooth brush, though a regular old tooth brush will work.

I've actually used Autosol to polish scales with no ill effects. There exceptions to every rule but I think it should be fine.
Grant

Nice razor, love the thumb notch!

I'm another with no experience using autosol, but have used Flitz on all sorts of scales--plastic, acrylic, bone, everything but wood--with no problems. The gun cleaning brush is a good idea. You might want to get a stiffer (bronze) bristle one for the jimping, but keep that scratchy brush away from the blade steel. I usually keep the Dremel and the razors in far separate rooms of the house, but do use it with a little steel brush and some Flitz to clean out the jimps. An old toothbrush is sometimes not up to that task.

Good luck with it!

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Originally Posted by roughkype

Nice razor, love the thumb notch!

I'm another with no experience using autosol, but have used Flitz on all sorts of scales--plastic, acrylic, bone, everything but wood--with no problems. The gun cleaning brush is a good idea. You might want to get a stiffer (bronze) bristle one for the jimping, but keep that scratchy brush away from the blade steel. I usually keep the Dremel and the razors in far separate rooms of the house, but do use it with a little steel brush and some Flitz to clean out the jimps. An old toothbrush is sometimes not up to that task.

Good luck with it!

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I´ll have to order one online as firearms shops are few and far between here. (i do get a little guilty pleasure going to gun ranges when i´m in the states with work) but yes it seems like a good idea. I`m thinking the patination is in the metal little more than i thought, i have removed the watermarks but i think its minor pitting below. I`m not sure i actually dislike it or is worth sending off to have metal removed for the sake of something that gives the razor character. Thanks to adam for the link

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Originally Posted by baldy

I've actually used Autosol to polish scales with no ill effects. There exceptions to every rule but I think it should be fine.
Grant

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Perfect, cheers baldy I´m probably being a little anal but i´ve been told good puma scales are hard to come by and these are minty. I do really want to get at the tang and pivot though without having to remove them ao will have a go tonight

Something else you might try for cleaning between the blade and scales is ribbon with flitz on it. Go to an art supply store or college bookstore art section and look for bookbinders ribbon. This is the stuff that sections of books are sewn onto. It's linen, about 10 mm wide, and great for this application. If you can't find the real bookbinders stuff, see what they've got in a fabric store. Or, even simpler, cut or rip a rag into really thin strips and use that. I like something ribbon-shaped way more than I like floss. The floss, with a little grit on it, can act an awful lot like a saw. Just ask anyone who's busted outta da joint!