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I'm going to have to store some razors for 9 months, and I only have two options
for treating the blades: gun oil or WD-40. After treatment, the razors will be stored
in an AlembiCase.
Which of the two treatments would you recommend?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Paul
No third option? I would suggest TufGlide. But if it's dry in the case and no moisture can get in, you don't actually need anything.
WD 40 is not a protectorant,It actually has some water content to it.As said above Tufglide is great stuff.I hunt ducks in saltponds,The ultimate long term protection for shotguns is rig grease,just a light coat will protect any metal.
Don't use WD-40 it's main purpose is to displace water. Short term for bicycles and such it serves but for long term storage it would be a mistake.
What is TuffGlide? The name implies that it has both lubricating and preservative qualities.
I know that I can't get it here in Tonga, but you have gotten my attention, and maybe I
will get some Stateside.
Thanks!
One other thing that may give some piece of mind for storage,those little dessicant bags,you know the ones that say do not eat:) They work well.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3.../dessicant.jpg
There's lots of good protectants in the gun industry. Try FP-10, Eezox, Slip 2000.
I'd imagine that since you'll be using the blades on your mug again, the dessicant bag, bottles or electronic devices might be a good. I think Gunzilla is a natural gun oil.
I've heard that another good long term protectorant is Renaissance Wax.
WD-40 is good for a week and to prepare for a longer lasting oilQuote:
Originally Posted by PaulKidd
like Camellia, mineral or gun oil. Tuffglide is also good if you can find it.
Gun shops often have good rust prevention products.
Moth balls in with those do not eat desiccant bags also works.
Remember that you are going to put the razors to your face
eventually so look for non-toxic products and expect to wipe
them clean perhaps with a thin layer of mineral oil or something human
safe when you pull them from storage.
wd-40 is NOT a lube......... repeat that 40 times.....
it stands for "water displacement formula #40".........
please don't coat anything you love with this stuff.......
you CAN however use breakfree CLP....
I would consider using Birchwood-Casey Barricade. It is a metal preservative that also contains a water-displacing agent. It dries to a film which is easily removed with rubbing alcohol. It's available in small quantities at many gun shops.
http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/news/9588.html
I've fallen in Love with Ballistol!! It's been use in Europe for about 90 years!!! if you pour some into a small glass and add water, it 'mixes' into it, it doesn't just rise to the surface!!
ETom tells me that he uses it on 'Everything'!! Razors, All Weapons etc!!
With that said: To each their own!
Tuf-Glide is a gun lubricant, so I guess it is a brand of gun oil.
If you can't find gun oil in Tonga, try using a light coat of mineral oil on the blades of your razors.
Personally, I wouldn't trust anything to prevent rust especially somewhere like Tonga. I would regularly check the razors & replace whatever coating you use. If I had to be away from the razors I would pop the scales off & store the razors submerged in oil or some kind of coating that blocked air contact.
I'm sure the Alembic cases are great but those dessicant packs work by absorbing water in the air of which you have plenty, right ? Average humidity would be what ? 70%-90% ? I reckon those packs would need recharging in the oven or microwave regularly. If you use humidity indicators in the case you can keep an eye on what's happening. You won't necessarily get rust at 50% humidity but that also depends on the coating on the blade.
If you only have WD40 I would be recoating on a weekly basis but I prefer products with more oil content. I use an Aussie made spay called Inox. It doesn't wash off with water. Inox-MX3
What about coconut oil?
Mineral oil is good.
I see that the temps and humidity in Tonga are a little lower than in Georgia, USA during the summer. The difference being that the temps/humidity range less during the year in Tonga, than in GA.
I use Ballistol, and mineral oil on my straights and the Georgia humidity hasn't hurt them yet.
Give them a polish with some MAAS to clean them up good, then wipe them down with a silicone gun cloth. Put them in an air tight container with a desiccant pack and you will be just fine.
+1Quote:
Originally Posted by paco664
Yes what he said...
It does displace water in the pivot and
on the surface of the steel. That can
help especially when followed by a
people safe oil...
This is a topic where a lot of people
have history with this product and
know from personal experience if it
is suitable for their environment and uses.
The WD-40 FAQ is interesting
note the "additional applications"
bit.... this implies (to me) that long term
storage needs help.
WD-40 Frequently Asked Questions
Q: How long does WD-40 last after application?
A: While this may vary depending on the application, WD-40 remains effective even after
it appears to dry. The corrosion and rust protection ingredients remain adhered to the
surface. External conditions may, of course, require additional applications of WD-40 for
maximum protection.
=====================
Read more about "breakfree CLP"
Break-FreeŽ
I hope I said that WD-40 needs help for
long term storage... CLP is one good
choice to evaluate.
PaulKidd,
If specialist preservatives are hard to come by in Tonga, you could try using motor oil as as a preservative; it contains detergents, corrosion inhibitors etc, and can do a fine job and is usually very available :)
Have fun !
Best regards
Russ
WD-40 has some harsh chemicals in it that I would not trust on some scales like bone or whatever. The best single step application thus far is Corrosion-X. It displaces water, bonds with metal and gives a protective barrier against rust. It is not toxic and food grade. Take a look at it on line. I have been using this stuff for guns and other fine pieces of steel for over a decade and it performs excellently. There are different thicknesses that you can obtain and for long time storage I would get the thick stuff. Just as a side note do not use on a new gun like an automatic because it will not break in, it lubes that well.
Take Care,
Richard
Ballistol or rig, either is well reommended. I learned about rig when I was in the Marine Corps. It is a splended product, but you might not like the smell. Some of the guys here use ballistol, I have purchased a razor which had been covered with it and I like this product very much. Besides being a great protectant, no petroleum smell.:gl:
he makes great sense..... do this if you can find nothing better.....Quote:
Originally Posted by PhatMan
+1 good product.Quote:
Originally Posted by riooso
Always read the vendors data sheets:
http://www.corrosionx.com/msds/corrosionx-data.pdf
CorrosionX
For example:
Rubber: No visible effect on Buna-N, Viton or Neoprene products. Slight swelling and/or softening of
butyl rubber items.
What about the Remington Dry lube spray? It's a teflon coating mainly camping stuff.
yes.... that will serve just fine....Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffC79
As I read the manufacturer site it is a lubricant andQuote:
Originally Posted by JeffC79
not a surface rust preventative in the context of what
we are looking for.
It would be cleaner than graphite and not plate surfaces
the way moly-disulfide does so it would be nice for the
close tolerances of some firearms. It would also
be nice on bicycle chains in a number of situations.
BTW: If you read the Teflon patents for
razors it takes a bit of serious heat to get it to coat the surface
and thus requires very well timed heat and precise temp to preserve
the temper.