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So one of my vintage blades does not stay open by itself. Its still centered and wiggles only a tiny tiny bit. Is there a way to make it stay open by itself or do i need to re pin to be able to make it stay open? (ive seen people just put pencils to keep them open for pictures) It does not bother my shave in anyway.. its just the only blade like that that i own. Once again thank you gentlemen.
you could tap each side lightly with peening hammer. Do both sides. little by little so you don't over tighten. If it gets too tight I think you can bend the pin.
what size peening hammer do you suggestQuote:
Originally Posted by bondpunk
mine is tiny. total weight 13 oz. The ball end is about the size of a red high bouce ball you can get from the quarter machines when leaving the grocery store... I will check the wiki to make sure I didn't feed you bad info.
Un-pinning and re-pinning a razor - Straight Razor Place Wiki
link to the wiki. it would be like the last two steps. plus some handy videos in there other members were kind enough to make.
thanks, im watching the videos on the wiki page.. how does he place those divots on the hammer for finishing to peen those pins? with a drill? im going to have to invest in some dummy blades and rods and washers now lol. (also now it sounds like this post should be in the workshop thread now lol)Quote:
Originally Posted by bondpunk
I used to a drill to place my divots on the hammer
I put my divots on the horn part of a 10 pound anvil available at Harbor Freight pretty cheap if you catch it right or use the weekly 20% off coupon. You also get a lot of flat area also for other stuff. I put felt pads on the bottum of the anvil so I wouldn't mark up what ever area I was working on also.
Oh by the way they sell a pretty sweet jewelers hammer too with interchangeable heads.
Cover the scales including pins with masking tape, then very slowly with your razor firmly secured file the head of the pin back so you can see the washer clearly, then take the razor to a piece of wood with a small hole drilled in it, place razor on the wood with the good side of the pin lined up with the hole, take a small punch the same size as the pin usually 1/16 lightly tap until you push the pin through the hole in the wood. then you can re-pin the razor.
Jamie.
What would be considered the "good" side of the pin? thanks for the info!Quote:
Originally Posted by celticcrusader
What I actually mean by good side is the side you have not filed down, be very careful when you are filing the pin head off as not to mark the scales, also old scales can be very brittle make sure the pin head is as low and flush to the washer before you give it a little tap, spray a little bit of WD40 on the pin, it's a case of slowly slowly catch a monkey.
Regards Jamie
I wouldn't repin. Just tighten what you have unless it is bent.
I also don't bother with divots in my anvil. I use a jewelers block to back the pin when I tighten or pin a razor.
I also don't like the replaceable head hammer or a 13 oz ball peen. Find the smallest hammer you can whether that be a jeweler's hammer or a tack. Many have also used heavy spoons in a bind. The replaceable heads always came loose on the hammers I had that could do that.
I agree, this should be moved to the workshop, you would get a lot more traffic there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by deighaingeal
I used Loctite on my hammer so the replaceable ball peen doesn't back off any more.