Nice,but depressing find

I was out putting around on the motorcycle and decided I would wander around in the antique store today. I found a neat looking little razor with a very pretty spine on it. I got the clerk to open the case for me and was very disappointed to find that the blade was trashed. I still liked the look of the peacock scales so I went ahead and bought it. I came here and searched for "peacock" and found a few threads,but none with the same blade as mine. The tang is marked A.G.ASHI&N.COURY-MADE in GERMANY on one side,the other side is marked 104. The blade itself seems to read "OUR BEST" but it is really hard to tell. I wish there was enough blade to salvage because I really love the spine on it,but it's hardly anything left of it. Which brings me to my next idea. I got another old W&B that has a blade with what can only be described as excessive hone wear. It actually looks like it spent time dragging on the highway behind a vehicle,but I like it because of the notched blade. The scales on that W&B are pretty bad,but fixable. I would like to see if I can salvage the W&B blade and re-pin it into these peacock scales. Does anyone think that this blade can ever be made shave-able? I have never done anything like this before and will have to do a lot of reading up before I dive in. The blades are pretty close in length and I think they will swap out and still fit nicely. Any thoughts or suggestions?
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7030/6...7b9058f6_z.jpg
SANY0132 by Shiny Ribs, on Flickr
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7151/6...bf243e68_z.jpg
SANY0133 by Shiny Ribs, on Flickr
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7011/6...ed3f7135_z.jpg
SANY0134 by Shiny Ribs, on Flickr

Hopefully you can salvage the scales on the worked back razor, maybe the other one with black scales can be honed up and shaved with. Contact a honer off the classified's and send them the pic & ask their opinion. From what I can tell, it looks salvageable to me...

The one is obviously toast. The other can be used.

Dont quote me on it. but the blades appear to have the same general shape, with a similar pivot distance. should be able to move the peacock scales to the W&B. Again I dont do that work, so I cant be certain.

I had the same thought. They measure out pretty close. I'm going for it. I got the scales off of the W&B today. If I can get the blade cleaned up and shave-worthy,then I will attack swapping them out.

are the tangs pretty much the same thickness?

The tangs are nearly identical.The tang on the W&B is just a wee bit wider. Less than a 1/16" ,id say probably 3/64" difference between the two. Thanks for keeping an eye on me,though:D

The worked back razor can be saved. You just need a good grinder. It will never be a large razor, but it can shave. I have already done it. If you want to do such a thing, just know that it will result in a very thin blade that you will want to use for detailed works (like shaping your mustache or sideburns or what else), and you will not like it for a complete shave.
I use the largest blades for the most of the work, and little blades for details. And I get a lot of fun :)

But you could save this beauty.

I suggest you save the W&B as it is. It's nice. And if you properly clean it, you can cover the consumption of its spine.

Several years ago, someone posted a photo of a blade with those exact scales. They were in great shape and the peacock was hand painted.

If you are artisticlly talented, you could reproduce that same effect with your scales.

Maybe someone else remembers that razor.

Jerry
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I saw that post mrsell63. It was a great looking razor. I will try to repaint the scales at sometime. It just seems wrong not to !

Mauri,that is not a bad idea. i considered that but was concerned that with the spine being the original thickness,and the blade being so much shorter,that it might not hone like it should.It seems to me that the bevel would be set at a very broad angle like that. Would it work? I would love to keep that blade alive with such a nice looking spine,even if just for sitting on the mantle.

What grit do ya'll use for sanding blades? I started out with 400 then moved to 1200. I'd like to go to something coarser. It shined up real nice,even without polishing yet,but the deeper scratches are still there. Is it safe to use any sort of power tools on these blades. I really am getting tired of hand sanding,but don't want to risk hurting this blade.

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Originally Posted by shinyribs

Mauri,that is not a bad idea. i considered that but was concerned that with the spine being the original thickness,and the blade being so much shorter,that it might not hone like it should.It seems to me that the bevel would be set at a very broad angle like that. Would it work?

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It worked on a razor I own. I accidentally broke the tip of the blade and so I had to modify its shape. I also had to grind and re-shape the toe. It shaves well. All considered, the angle of the bevel is bound to change over time, since there is much more steel on the back than on the blade. The important thing is that you hone it properly, once you are done with the grinder.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shinyribs

What grit do ya'll use for sanding blades? I started out with 400 then moved to 1200. I'd like to go to something coarser. It shined up real nice,even without polishing yet,but the deeper scratches are still there. Is it safe to use any sort of power tools on these blades. I really am getting tired of hand sanding,but don't want to risk hurting this blade.

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I'd avoid high speed power tools. low speed and keep it cool so you dont mess with the temper. Id also add an 800 grit round in there, as for how high to go, your looking at 8K to 12K. How low you can go, its a lot better to take your time and go slower, its always easier to take less metal off each pass than to try and put metal back on. Might be able to get some 325 grit wet/dry.