Pivot pin getting loose

I have noticed over the years that the pivot pin on my razors will not stay tight like I would prefer, and has to be tightened now and then. I know what the reason is and was wondering if others have the same problem. When I am shaving I bend the blade back to hold the razor as usually done and then when wiping the blade straighten it. Then bend it back again and so on. I tried to wipe the blade while it is in the 90 degree position but I find that clumsy. I was wondering what others do as this causes undo wear on the pivot.

I pivot the razor whichever way I need to whether shaving or cleaning. Should it get loose I gently tighten it. So far so good. Usually they stay tight for me for awhile if I get them right the first time.

What I have a problem with is razors that are very tight when open and beyond the halfway point but are loose when swung around towards closing them. I have to guide them into the scales. I am leery that if I tighten them enough to hold towards closing they'll be too tight to open past half way without cracking. :boohoo:

Yes, I wish someone would come up with a solution to that problem. It is a little scientific I think, It has to do with the tang being thicker and thinner in spots I guess. I don't want to grind any off if I can help it. Getting it to look right like it was before, would be a lot of work.

It is annoying, I know! I have chamfered the insides of the scales in the past to accommodate the tang, but it makes them look a bit odd. If the worst comes to the worst I add a third pin with a spacer-plug that is thick enough to open the scales a bit for the length of the tang.

Regards,
Neil

What I have been doing on my own re-scales (so far it has worked well)
I make my thrust washers out of copper shim stock as copper has a very high lubricity,When the flat washer is made I put it on a piece of thick leather and take a dimpling punch and tap it to put an almost invisable curvature to it.
Sort of makes them into spring type washers.
Even it the tang is tapered (as most are at the pivot point) it seems to maintain an even tension thruout the blades full travel.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pixelfixed

What I have been doing on my own re-scales (so far it has worked well)
I make my thrust washers out of copper shim stock as copper has a very high lubricity,When the flat washer is made I put it on a piece of thick leather and take a dimpling punch and tap it to put an almost invisable curvature to it.
Sort of makes them into spring type washers.
Even it the tang is tapered (as most are at the pivot point) it seems to maintain an even tension thruout the blades full travel.

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If you are using the Microfastener washers you can do almost that exact same thing as Pixelfixed is talking about, simply by paying attention to how you use the washers..
These washers have two sides it is really easy to notice when you have a few on the bench, one side is flat the other is slightly beveled..
Put the flat side against the scales, if you always do that on the inside and the outside you will get a better action when opening and closing, and a better look on the outside :)

Have not seen those Glen but it sounds like the same concept.
Not sure what they are called but what I think would also work well (have never seem them in the right size) are those wavy spring steel washers.
Only problem I have with mine is trying to gauge the moment of a small spring action verses flattening them to far, It's tap and check, tap and Check.

Many of the old makers used to scuff the scales with a rough file at the pivot ends to create a friction effect too.. All kinds of tricks :p