Question on Grinds

Gentlemen,

I am planning to do the acquisition of a fine razor but before I need to understand the question of the different grinds. In the literature they are talking of ¼, ½ and full-hallow ground, I am wondering what is the difference between them when shaving and what are the upside and downside of the different grinds, I assume that a ¼ hallow grind will be stiffer and heavier than a full hallow but I don’t know witch one will shave better, it seems that most modern shaver are full hallow but is it really better, when I read the description of some ¼ ground hallow razor at ShavingShop.com I get confused. I am presently learning with a 5/8 Henckels Friodur and I believe it is a ½ hallow ground since I don’t see the belly. I will appreciate any comment to help me understand

By the way is there any comment on the Wacker straight razor, I found they are very nice

Thanks and I have a great day

Norm

Stiffer grinds are better for heavier stubble because they don't deflect as much as delicate grinds. Delicate grinds are easier to sharpen. I wouldn't mind having a Wacker in my rotation.

I'm very new at this (about 1 month), but have several different grinds/sizes of razors.

In my limited experience, grind is just as, if not more, important than width.

For example, I have a Holland 5/8 that is a heavier hollow (likely about 1/2) that shaves rings around my other full hollow 5/8 razors. For me, it shaves as well as my full hollow 6/8.

I also have some 1/2 and 1/4 razors in 6/8 that I think are great. I have a full wedge being restored by another member and am looking forward to giving that a go as well.

When you refer to the Wackers, you need to be specific as John Crowley has full hollow and 1/4 hollow grinds for sale.

I've heard mixed reviews about the Wackers. I have a 7/8 full hollow Bartman (by Wacker) that I'm having re-scaled but haven't used yet.

If you're looking for a heavier grind, you don't need to shell out the cash for a Wacker if you're not sure you'll like it - you can likely get a heavier grind in a 5/8 or 6/8 from someone here for a reasonable price if you keep your eye open or ask.

I really like the heavier grinds and find they work well for me. Having said that, my full hollow 6/8 Sheffield steel TI shaves great, but the full hollow 5/8 razors I have a harder time getting the tough stuff on the chin - that having been said, if sharp, they will certainly get the job done.

I'm no expert and I can't tell for sure without pictures, but I suspect your Fridur is a full hollow.

My understanding is that razors range from a full wedge (triangular cross section) to full hollow (which tapers quickly from the spine to give you a profile where there is a small hollowed triangle at the top which thins quickly so that most of the width of the blade is quite thin) - with many possiblities in between. The closer the cross section is to a triangular, the "wedgier" the razor.

You see I would like to invest a fair amount of money and purchase a new razor but beside Dovo and TI the choice is limited. I am not sure about Dovo, it seems that it is not the preferred choice of the experienced member of this forum, on the other hand it seems that there is a consensus on the fact that TI is great shaver but the finishing touch is not always there and I am sure it will piss me off to purchase a new razor and find out it is not perfect. All that said john Crowley is proposing some very nice razor of different type of grinds, some full-hallow and a large selection of ¼ hollow ground. I found they are all very nice. Much nicer than TI IMO but I am not sure about the shave they give and I wonted to understand the question of the different grind and find how it is affecting the shave

The way I see it my Henckels Friodur is a Full-hallow, it is a basic model but I have to say that it give a very smooth shave

thanks and have a great day

Norm.

You won't go wrong if you buy anything in JC's shop. Your other option are well-restored antiques. If you have $150 to burn, that Friodur that Gary's selling is an absolute peach and I'd like to see it come to Canada. (actually it's a re-scaled NOS).

I was leaning toward a new one but I am not closed to a well-restored antique since some of them could be beautiful, that friodur that Gary is selling is it possible to see it on the user gallery, I could not locate it

Norm

You're in luck. This is a restored NOS (New Old Stock -- never used) piece. Ice-hardened edge, with ice-blue scales.
http://straightrazorpalace.com/showthread.php?t=8948
If I had the cash to burn I'd buy it in a second and I usually prefer restoration projects for myself.

Norm,
If you aren't only interested in "new" razors, have you had opportunity to check out any of the old "choppers" by Wade & Butcher, etc.? Talk about a heavy hunk of steel, and no flimsy grind....
You may find they are just what the doctor ordered. I haven't looked for them in some time, but I got a few for between 20 and 50 bucks (some did go for more, but my wallet doesn't always go for more...)
John P.

This is a beautiful razor; there is no doubt about it. I am still evaluating my needs and at this moment I have two basic razors on their way to be tuned up by Lynn, I use them to learn and practice and frankly I think I am doing good, I go step by step and right now the stropping and shaving are perfect, next step is to learn the honing. If I can achieve that then I will purchase a nice razor, new or old but nice, it will be my personnel diploma but you see I am not the type of person to have a collection of razor because once I know witch one is the best then I loose all the interest in the others, I am just like that what can I say, therefore I wont to be sure and purchase the right one.

By the way those 8/8 are very impressive but don’t you find them to big sometime

Gentlemen have I great day and by the way this forum is great

Norm

Norm, I wouldn't know as I haven't tried anything over 6/8. I do want to have a 7/8 and an 8/8 in my rotation but I'm in no rush, especially considering my finances.

You might want to consider the Maestro razors that Lynn sells on his site.

That MAY be my reward for a month smoke-free. Not a sure thing yet and in any case it's only been like 3 days so far lol.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FiReSTaRT

That MAY be my reward for a month smoke-free. Not a sure thing yet and in any case it's only been like 3 days so far lol.

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I've been there Ilija. It does get better (but it still sucks!:mad: ) Hang in there.

Jordan

Thanks Jordan. I think the shakes are down to the point where I can focus on a workout or two to make up for the compulsive nervous eating lol.

Yup, I found days 2-5 are the worst - physically. Then its a matter of simply "missing" the lifestyle elements like beer+a smoke = :tu. Its like losing an old friend. That's been the worst part for me.


:HJ
Sorry, back to the topic....

Norm, as has been suggested, keep your eye on the buy/sell forum. Some heavier grinds that have been very nicely restored come up from time to time. They're a nice investment.


Jordan

I am learning and discovering a lot of nice thing on this site to the point that my wife is looking at me sideway lately. I am not so demanding after all…… I just would like to have a piece of art that shave like a dream. I prefer to have 1 razor at $600 than 4 at $150…..by the way those nice Maestro Livi razors how do they shave exactly? Just ok, as good as TI or better, maybe like a dream.

Jordan, thanks for the head up, I went to the buy/sell. You are right, it might be interesting.

Norm.

These scales by Gary are a custom work of art. As for the blade itself, it's a beautifuly worked 8/8. It would make me as happy as a Livi piece would and it would shave just as well.

There is doubt in my mind that this razor is a beauty, the scale is beautiful, the blade is very impressive and they re known to shave well I am just not sure about the 8/8, I am under the impression the ideal size is 6/8 but those it really matter, If anyone happened to have the different dimensions could you explain the difference you see when shaving, otherwise I guess I will have to try and find out by myself but it'is more expensive

Norm

Actually size is more of a comfort issue. Mine are all in the 4/8-6/8 range, but I am working on a 13/16 restoration project. What's good about big blades is that there's more of a surface to work with if you wish to play around with shapes or decorative touches. Even though I prefer the 5/8-6/8 range, I'll get some 7/8 and 8/8 just to have a full size range.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FiReSTaRT

Actually size is more of a comfort issue. Mine are all in the 4/8-6/8 range, but I am working on a 13/16 restoration project. What's good about big blades is that there's more of a surface to work with if you wish to play around with shapes or decorative touches. Even though I prefer the 5/8-6/8 range, I'll get some 7/8 and 8/8 just to have a full size range.

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It is like everything, at the end it’s just a question of personnel preference, there is no good answer, I have to say that the big 8/8 are more impressive but technically a 6/8 is probably a better choice.

I have all types of razors and sizes and grinds in my collection and they all shave wonderfully. I depart from your thinking in that I would rather have 4 $150 razors rather than 1 $600 razor. A razor doesn't have to be expensive to give a great shave. I do have a maestro and yes it gives a wonderful shave but so do many others that cost a fraction of the price. If you are in a position to afford one you buy it for the workmanship and exclusivity more than the shave quality.

I would recommend people starting out obtain a variety of razors of all sizes and grinds and then decide which is best for you and then and only then if you can afford it go ahead and buy the big bucks razor. The last thing you want to do is spend $800 or more on a beautiful 7/8s maestro and find you hate big blades and it either becomes a display piece or your looking to sell it at a loss. Just my 2 cents.

I agree completely with thebigspendur.

I've been at this for just over a month - I have a bunch of razors in different sizes - many of them have been acquired shave-ready for between $35 and $50.

In that short time, I have developed definite preferences that will impact my furture acquisitions and I may even sell some of my current roster of razors.

Specifically, I now know that I'm not a fan of full-hollow 5/8 razors (they're a little too light for the S-N pass around the chin), but that a 6/8 or bigger full hollow works just fine. Similarly, a 1/2 hollow or wedgier 5/8 also works just fine. I may also try a 5/8 stainless (they're stiffer than carbon - supposedly), as I do like the nimbleness of the 5/6

My preferred size is 6/8 and I like a heavier grind 1/2 hollow and up, but a full-hollow 6/8 is very nice.

I have a couple of 7/8 and they're nice razors, but I really don't see my self getting any more "big" razors in the near future.

To get back to the point, had I invested the same amount of money in one or two more expensive razors, I wouldn't have as good an idea of what works best for me. Also, if you don't like a razor you spent $50 for, you can usually sell it for pretty close to what you paid for it - that's not always the case with the more expensive razors - even if you lose only 10% on resale, 10% of $500 is a whole lot more that 10% of $50!

From that point of view I have to agree with both of you to, I hate to purchase something I don’t really use therefore before investing that much money on a shaver it make complete sense to try different less expensive shavers of different style, I guess it’s part of the fun to and then once you know what are your preferences it is always possible to get a really nice one.

Gentlemen thanks for the feedback and have a great day


Norm.