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I have had my stainless steel Mastro Livi for two years now and I believe it is a great shaver. Unfortunately, I have had an extremely difficult time honing it. I can't get pass bevel setting. Do you have any specific advice about honing these masterpieces ?
I usually follow Mastro Livi's advice when I need to refresh a dull edge and, in my opinion, it is a great technique, both quick and effective.
It basically consists in passing the razor on Mastro Livi loom strop - linen side - by using his very good chromium oxide stick. It usually takes few passes to get a very good and absolutely sharp edge. Of course I do not know about the edge of your razor, but - generally speaking - a cutting edge does not need to have the bevel set from scratch (something you certainly need for freshly made razors or those to be restored) and it usually takes a simple touch up in order to get it back in full shape.
Do you know what stainless steel was used by Mastro Livi for making your razor? You said it is now two years you have that, so I suppose it is RWL34?
Moreover, what hones/stones did you use for bevel setting? I am sure they were perfectly lapped, right?
Yes, I think you are right about the type of steel. I set the bevel with a Chiosera 1000, well lapped. I usually don't have a problem with setting the bevel on most of my SRs. I did refresh the edge periodically with CrOx on balsa but at some point, the razor required to go back to the hones.
With all the due respect, but I think using a 1k hone on a dull razor is just too much. I do not argue on the fact your razor needed going back to the hones, but I would have used a finer grit hone instead in order to touch it up.
In case chromium oxide would not have worked, I would have used a 8-10k hone instead and, in case it was not enough, I would have used a 3k, then progressing to 8k, finally to Mastro Livi loom strop with chromium oxide.
I probably did not explain myself very well. I set a bevel at 1 K. This is followed by a pyramid progression with Naniwa water stones at 5 k and 8 k, then I use a 12 k to finish it . From then, it goes on a balsa/CrOx strop, linen and leather.
I think Antonello was trying to explain that going to a 1K stone was overkill for what you needed. The bevel was already set when you bought the razor and did not need to be re-set, or should not need to be for a touch up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Razorthin
It is always better to touch up a razor starting with the higher grits and then going lower progressively as needed. By starting on the 1K you would have been trying to re-set the bevel which should not have been necessary. Also, if it is not done properly, all manner of issues could happen. If you are having troubles with it, my advice would be to send it to someone on these forums that is a recognized honemeister.
Thicker grinds do take a lot more work and there is the question of whether tape was or was not used originally to set the bevel.
Well, I first tried to refresh the edge with a 8k-12K but I was not successful. The razor was also sent to a well respected honemeister from this forum but it has not been the same compared to the edge that it had coming from Mastro Livi's hands.
The lowest I would have dropped to would have been a 4K, personally. But you should not have needed very much time on the 4K at all. Since you liked how the edge was originally, I would send it back to Mastro Livi and get him to fix up the edge for you. That is likely your best chance for success.Quote:
Originally Posted by Razorthin
With all the due respect, with a razor having its bevel set and simply needing a touch up, I simply use a Belgian coticule with no slurry and this is usually enough. Most of the times, few passes on Mastro Livi loom strop and his chromium oxide are enough to get a fully sharp edge.
Having said this, I do not consider myself an expert and, as far as I can tell, in fifteen years of straight razor collecting, restoring, honing and use, nothing beats Mastro Livi honing. I understand it is not that easy for our friend Razorthin to send the razor to Mastro Livi in order to get it honed, but it can be a good solution.
I however can suggest this: if Razorthin can post a picture of his razor, including the type of steel used for its making (this information is found in the certificate coming with the razor) I can ask Mastro Livi and see whether he has a good advice in order to get this razor back in very good shape.
As requested, this is my razor with its certificate of authenticity.
Attachment 200558
