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I've treated all of my blades with a layer of Renaissance Wax.. but I also have the blade oil that came with my Hart Steel.. I don't have so many razors that they will sit for extended periods before going back in rotation, but I still do enjoy my DE collection so a straight could sit unused for a week or more.
Is it over the top to put a dab of oil on a blade treated with RenWax?
Ren Wax is great stuff. I've got it on some but too lazy to put it on the whole bunch. Rather than oil I use a silicone gun cloth impregnated with Birchwood Casey R.I. G. (rust inhibiting grease) The RIG is really great for guns, knives, razors ....... anything metal.
That is exactly what i do. Better safe than sorry.
Thanks !!Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyHAD
Everyone seems to do it slightly different.. I thought the easiest method would be some kind of impregnated cloth and just give wipe when done. No goopy messes and easy to apply. Just wasn't sure what. I'll look up the RIG.
You do RenWax and oil?Quote:
Originally Posted by nicknbleeding
Just to clarify, on some razors I've used ren wax and rig, on others just the wipe with the gun cloth. The gun cloth is 25 years old and I'm sure the silicone is long since gone. I take a Q-tip and apply some rig to a razor, wipe it with the gun cloth, and the residue stays on the cloth. I only apply new rig every now and then. The residue in the cloth is good for many applications. I live in a high humidity tropical climate and have found this to work well for avoiding corrosion.
Yes i use both. Can be rather humid here in the summer.
how do you clean off the RIG when you want to use the razor?
My razors sit for sometimes 6 to 8 months, then I recheck them. I use a heavy coat of mineral oil, keep them in a cigar box with a bag of rice to absorb moisture. Never had a blemish on any of them.
I do it the easy way- just spray on some WD 40. Done.
Thanks all..
The challenge is this.. since any one of my razors could find itself back in rotation in short order, whatever I apply has to be easily removed as well. I don't think I would shave with a blade that has WD40 on it. Mineral oil, sure. I have a vial of mineral oil, with a slight cut of alcohol to help it dissipate water. The RenWax is easiest.. apply once, buff it out and reapply when water no longer beads on the blade. But I have concern with how well it will stand up to hot soapy water.
I like the Renwax for a second reason, that it makes the blades so much easier to rinse clean. It seems to stick around through an awful lot of lather and rinsing, but I don't count on it to protect the spine and edge for as long as I count on it for the rest of the blade. I can't imagine that stropping doesn't rub it away from those two high-contact zones. So I also supplement it with Remoil or Tuf-glide. I probably don't refresh the Renwax more than twice a year on any blade.
I also like to put some Tuf-glide on the pivot pin, to make sure it's protected if I miss wicking or blowing a drop of water out of there.
I use RenWax and nothing else. But then again I only have two straights and I mainly use just one all week and then shave with the other razor that was professionally honed on the weekends just to get a reference shave to compare to so I can make sure I'm not dulling my other blade with stropping and refreshing on hone while I'm learning. It just stays in it's leather case all week until I use it. I haven't had any problems yet with letting it sit that long. It doesn't get stored in my bathroom where there's humidity though.
For long term storage I have used " spray silicone lubricant". I have used it for years to protect cast iron equipment used for sausage making. Also I use a metal protectant from "Chestertan" that lasts for 2 years but it is a very waxy consistancy.