Thiers Issard (problem)

Hi all, I bouht the razor in the attached photo about a month ago, it is a beauty, but I have problem to use it properly, it scratches and my cheecks are not happy. I never had similar problems with my 4 Pumas, so I tried to refine the edge with my belgian coticule and using a very good strop, but no luck: the razor is rough on my skin and apparently there is no way to make it better. I tried again with the belgian coticule, because I know that the C135 steel is very hard, but no luck again. On the other side the old Pumas work like a dream. This is my first modern Thiers Issard, may be will be the last.

Attachment 133951

Rampa:
I have had models similar to yours and found areas around the point to be finished poorly by the manufacturer and, therefore, somewhat jagged. By smoothing the specific areas on stones I have solved the problem.

I've got the same razor with white bone scales. Matter of fact, I have two, one in the old silver steel, the other in the new C-135. Both shave smoothly and flawless. There is little doubt in my mind that it can be honed to that same smoothness given the 'correct' stones and in skilled hands. I'm not doubting your ability, assuming you've honed your Pumas, just saying that it makes no sense that there would be something integral, that couldn't be corrected with honing, in the razor that would prevent it from being a stellar shaver. :shrug:

Agreed. I think you are probably feeling microchips that have to be honed out not stropped out.

Thanx for your replies. I'll try to hone it again, but this time I'll start from a japanese stone 1000/6000, then the belgian coticule.

If your bevel is good and set and even I would only spend a very little time on the 6K and then spend most of my time on the Coticle. On the coticle I would avoid slurry this go around. If there are microchips then more time on the polish end of things, which seems counterintuitive, seems to work better. This steel is VERY hard and takes longer to hone up than other brands out there. Once you get it right though you will absolutely love it.

Hey, Rampa.

a couple possible things in play. Some steels need different techniques to retain the smoothness, and a BBW is quite effective for sharp, but many find it more harsh than the coti side. Lots of easy options exist for getting the smoothness back - some pastes or sprays, backstrokes on the stone can help (would use the coti side). The Swedish maker - Tornblom has been one that makes me do most of the moves to crank the smoothness. Great razors, but like to stay rather brisk.

If it would help, I'd gladly work the blade - just pick up postage and envelope cost to get it back to you.

If ideas for a spray/paste would be helpful, PM me.

Best of luck. It a gorgeous razor.

I have two TI's made from C135, and both are excellent and smooth shavers. Don't give up, and consider pinklather's offer in the event you are not able to smooth out that edge. Good luck!

I would also advise magnification to gauge the condition of the edge. A bevel can look fine to the naked eye but have micro chips that cannot be seen without an eye loupe or a microscope. I like a 30x eye loupe and they are not terribly expensive. Also use the magic marker on the bevel to make sure you're making correct contact with the stroke you're using. Back to the basics is always a good way to go with a problem razor. :gl:

I just received a Thiers-Issard Special Coiffeur this week, and I am astounded by how well it shaves. Cuts my whiskers like they're not even there. So don't give up on the steel or on the manufacturer! Good luck smoothing yours out :-)

I bought one of their first "new steel" razors and those were really a bear to hone when new. The newer ones are better however it's still hard steel and takes some more finesse with the hones and you need the right hones to make life simpler with these.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by thebigspendur

I bought one of their first "new steel" razors and those were really a bear to hone when new. The newer ones are better however it's still hard steel and takes some more finesse with the hones and you need the right hones to make life simpler with these.

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+1

I have had the same problem. My problem was increased by the tendency of the steel in the particular razor I have to microchip at high grit level while honing.

Regards,
Neil

I think the biggest problem with these is the final grinding. In most cases the front side bevel is wider than the back indicating a burr was created and then taken off. In addition, there is usually uneven flattening of the spine which does not the same on both sides. When you first start to hone these newer ones, you will notice you have created a double bevel with or without tape. I have found the key to them is to really establish a good bevel and once you do that, the rest is pretty smooth sailing and you end up with a nice shaver.

Have fun.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lynn

I think the biggest problem with these is the final grinding. In most cases the front side bevel is wider than the back indicating a burr was created and then taken off. In addition, there is usually uneven flattening of the spine which does not the same on both sides. When you first start to hone these newer ones, you will notice you have created a double bevel with or without tape. I have found the key to them is to really establish a good bevel and once you do that, the rest is pretty smooth sailing and you end up with a nice shaver.

Have fun.

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+1 - again!

Out of six or so TIs that I have recently honed, four had this uneven spine - two to such an extent that the bevels were really uneven. One had a rather large 'bulge' on one side of the spine near the tang end - looked a bit unsightly once ground off. One even had to be taped after straightening the spine.

Regards,
Neil

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lynn

I think the biggest problem with these is the final grinding. In most cases the front side bevel is wider than the back indicating a burr was created and then taken off. In addition, there is usually uneven flattening of the spine which does not the same on both sides. When you first start to hone these newer ones, you will notice you have created a double bevel with or without tape. I have found the key to them is to really establish a good bevel and once you do that, the rest is pretty smooth sailing and you end up with a nice shaver.

Have fun.

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It seems my case: the front bevel is wider than the back, also the spine surfaces are not the same.

On my older TI's I don't remember this problem occurring. But these days I look at any new TI I buy (2 recently) as if I myself am still at the factory and need to 'grind' a proper and even bevel before shipping it out. Taking that view helps me to frame my plan of attack on getting the new TI dialed in. One trick that is commonly discussed is using the black permanent marker. This really helps when you get a new TI to see what you need to do to correct the bevel and get it the way you want it.

PS; I don't actually take the thing to a grinder, lol. It just spends more time on the Chosera 1K and I pay a bit more attention to the edge at this stage than I do with others. Almost like I'm bringing home an eBay special. But, I should say that I absolutely love their new steel and feel that it stands out to the other carbon steels out there in its ability to take and hold a good edge.