Vintage vs. Modern Adjustable?

I've begun poking around, looking at adjustable razors. At this point it's just research, as I figure I'm some time away from adding an adjustable to the collection. One thing I notice is that the old razors that are written up as having great performance tend to be running in ebay for prices comparable to (or higher in many cases) a modern adjustable (e.g., a Futur).

One might naturally suppose that a good modern should perform as well or better than the corresponding vintage model (for example a fatboy vs. Futur) and since it's newer, should have better longevity (assuming comparable maintenance procedures). This all assumes that the fact that technology gets a little better each year is more than offsetting the desire to cut production cost by a smidge each year.

So, except for the fact that it would be kinda neat to have a razor from my birth year, I'm thinking the way to approach this is that if cost is equal or nearly so, I'd pick up the modern one first and maybe add vintage units later, as much out of curiosity as anything else.

So I wonder if there is (purely from a performnance/longevity point of view) a consensus out there among the experts on this, and would very much like to hear people's perspective (pertaining in particular to adjustables): Vintage or Modern?

Thanks,
Charlie

I've got several slims and fat boys. FWIW I prefer the Futur. It is nice to hold a birthdate (birth quarter?) Gillette in ur hand though.

The prices of vintage razors don't really have much to do with how well they shave. They tend to have a lot more to do with rarity and collectability, especially when you are talking NOS type razors, which are in high demand and low supply. Without going into too much detail, vintage Gillettes tend to be milder than modern adjustables, and they certainly are well made pieces of shaving hardware, just understand that you are paying for their rarity, more than the quality of the shave.

You may be able to find vintage Gillette adjustables for quite a bit less than the cost of a Futur. Antique stores sometimes have them and will sometimes sell them for a lot less than you see on eBay. Even on eBay, you can find them for less if you're patient. I picked up a Fatboy for $30 in really good shape with a box on there not that long ago. Slims can be had for a little less but they shave just as well.

All that said, I do get slightly better shaves with my Futur.

You can get Gillette Slim's in very good condition from $15 and up. They clean up easily. I get excellent shaves with my Slim. The Gillette's are still around because they were made to last. They also do not have pot metal heads like many modern razors.

The bottom line is that it is your face and your shave. I would get both to evaluate. You can always sell one for what you paid for it, at least the Gillette anyway..........and you may want to keep them both too!!

I have both vintage and currently manufactured DE razors. The bottom line is how well they shave you which depends on the razor, the blade, your face, and your skill with that particular razor. While the popularity of a particular DE is a good starting point, there is no way to know for sure how well that razor will shave you until you use that razor.

Many popular vintage and currently made razors can be acquired at modest to moderate prices and can be resold at a fair price on the classifieds. On the other hand, there are some currently made DE razors that are significantly expensive making one think and think again before acquiring one for a trial. I would like to try some of the stainless DEs, but I am reluctant to shell out $ 200 more or less to try one and possibly find that it shaves no better or possibly not as well as what I already have.

I use a Merkur Vision, Merkur 37C, Merkur 34G, and a Gillette Slim most often. The Vision is my best shaver, but I must take it down after each shave, wipe it clean, blow water out of the adjustment mechanism, and reassemble to prevent alloy corrosion issues. This is also true for the 37C slant and the 34G HD. I wish that I could get the Vision in stainless or plated brass so there would be no corrosion issues requiring an enhanced daily maintenance ritual for prevention. I believe that the Vision would be more popular if it was not so expensive and did not have corrosion issues without meticulous maintenance. The Slant and HD are priced OK and the additional maintenance tolerable for the money, but I wish that they could be acquired in stainless or plated brass. Although the Vision requires maintenance, I can do it in about 2 minutes which is far less work than what I must do to maintain the edge of my carbon and even stainless straights.

The Slim shaves me very well, but not quite as close as my Merkurs. However, the Slim shaves well enough that I could keep happy shaving if I only had the Slim available. I recommend trying a Slim in good condition because its adjustable feature provides a good prospect that a setting can be found that will shave most users well. The Slim is made of plated brass and only gets rinsed under hot running tap water and shaken dry. It has given me no corrosion issues after many years of use. When I tried this maintenance regimen with the alloy Merkurs, I discovered the beginnings of corrosion after a few months of use. The dis-assembly, wipe clean, and reassembly regimen now used with the Merkurs has stopped any further corrosion advancement so far after several additional months of use. I also now open, wipe, and dry even my Slim after each use and find that it stays cleaner looking that way.

One makes their choices and takes their chances.

HTH

I have a few DEs but the only adjustable ones I own are a couple of Fat Boys. Together they cost me far less than a Futur both shave very well. The only new DE I own is a Muhle R41 that is no too expensive and really shaves close but the head seems to be too thick for my liking. My favourite non adjustable is a Gillette open comb, sorry forgot the exact model, that shaves as close as the Muhle R41 but has a thinner head that I like better.

If both vintage and new are in good mechanical condition they should both last as long as you do. That is unless you do something to bugger them up. As with straights I would not say that new has an automatic advantage.

Bob

I think the technology for DEs was perfected years ago. They keep trying to perfect the wheel but even with design changes I don't think they shave any better be it new or vintage or the new expensive stainless models. I also don't think having an adjustment gives a better result. The R41 is fixed and it's the closest shaver in the world (at least most think so). best bet is read the forum and you'll see the razors most like and get good results with and the chances are you will too.

Gillette '04. War years and before. None better.

I have shaved with many DEs and, among adjustables, my favorite is my current newest razor, a GIllette Super Adjustable. The handle and weight are perfect and with a Bolzano, shaves better than the Merkur adjustables.

When you want to shave with a safety razor, it's like Highlander: "There can only be one!" ... and that's a British Gillette #66

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I own several vintage Gillette adjustable razors. I bought most of them for a buck or two at estate sales. You can get one at an antique shop for less than $25. That is far cheaper than a Merkur anything. Besides it's cool shaving with a dead man's razor.:dropjaw:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Charllie

I've begun poking around, looking at adjustable razors. At this point it's just research, as I figure I'm some time away from adding an adjustable to the collection. One thing I notice is that the old razors that are written up as having great performance tend to be running in ebay for prices comparable to (or higher in many cases) a modern adjustable (e.g., a Futur).

One might naturally suppose that a good modern should perform as well or better than the corresponding vintage model (for example a fatboy vs. Futur) and since it's newer, should have better longevity (assuming comparable maintenance procedures). This all assumes that the fact that technology gets a little better each year is more than offsetting the desire to cut production cost by a smidge each year.

So, except for the fact that it would be kinda neat to have a razor from my birth year, I'm thinking the way to approach this is that if cost is equal or nearly so, I'd pick up the modern one first and maybe add vintage units later, as much out of curiosity as anything else.

So I wonder if there is (purely from a performnance/longevity point of view) a consensus out there among the experts on this, and would very much like to hear people's perspective (pertaining in particular to adjustables): Vintage or Modern?

Thanks,
Charlie

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@diamondtim "it's cool shaving with a dead man's razor"...haha never thought of it quite like that. I wonder how many men have lived and died with my Wade & Butcher?

I've had many adjustables over the years. I find myself liking the Gillette Long-handled Super Adjustable, and my Merkur Futur.

The Super Adjustable is a mild razor, even opened up fully, that gives a smooth shave. The Futur is a heavy razor that can be reasonably aggressive, and it gives a lot of aural feedback.

They're different, but they're both very good.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JBHoren

When you want to shave with a safety razor, it's like Highlander: "There can only be one!" ... and that's a British Gillette #66

Attachment 144290

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THAT is a thing of beauty!

Well I thought I would post back here with the outcome of my explorations along this line.

Since the time I originally posted this thread I have picked up a couple vintage types (a superspeed and a fatboy). I must say that I do like them both, and they are each very much their own kind of thing. I guess that's true of all the razors I've tried. Despite the similarities of these things, they are all different in subtle ways and they each thus have their own fingerprint, so to speak. I see where the superspeed gets it name from. I'm not sure if it was the designer's intent (although it is certainly implied in the name) but this is THE razor to reach for if I happen to be in a hurry that morning. It's a pity but that does happen. The fatboy I like but have not really resonated with yet. Maybe with that one the combinations of setting and blade are just too big a matrix and I still need to try other blades in that one I suppose.

Meanwhile I picked up a EJ89 and this has become my daily shaver. In fact shortly after I got that razor I tried it with feather blades and Taylor of Old Bond Street shaving cream.

THAT combo (EJ89/Feather/TOBS) is my shave, at least for the past month or two, and I'm not inclined in the least to experiment further.

At least least I am not inclined to mess with the razor at this point. I did pick up a scuttle which I like very much and is very much part of the daily process now. The heat added by that thing is great, although I could see possibly going back to a plain old bowl again in summer time - we'll see when we get there I guess.

In any event, it has been a great journey trying out the old and new razors both. Thanks all for the tips and advice.

Part of me still wants to try a slant bar, but I can hold off on that for now....

charllie, hi if you could would you call the ej 89 a mild,mid range ,or an aggressive cut? unlike some guys I have had only 2 de,s in my 44 years of shaving ,, my razor I got in the army , cant even remember it , when I came home I got a fat boy adjustable . I recently after 44 years left it in the hotel and it is now gone. so Im looking to replace, but I don't really do the antigue store thing and other than ebay, I haven't seen anyone post de,s for sell here. I love my straights but some days I still need my de ,any advise would be great or il just take a shot at ebay(rather poke my eye) thanks tc

TC, I'd call the EJ89 a comfortable shave, when it has the right blade (which of course means the right blade for me, and you may find a different blade for you). When I have a sharp feather blade in the EJ89, it is both close and comfortable, so I'm not sure how to characterize it's aggressiveness per se. I'm still early in the process of getting my fatboy figured out but have played around with it enough to perhaps give a point of reference: for me the fatboy on 1 2 or 3 is not shaving a close as the EJ89, but it is about as comfortable in that range. When I crank the fatboy up to the higher numbers, it gets very close but also feels like I'm scraping off skin, and is quite uncomfortable (for example when it's in the 7-9 range, which I just had to try). By that measure I'd have to say the EJ8 is mid-range, I suppose. If it comes down to a choice between the EJ and the comparable Merkur, they are both good razors but I'd probably lean more towards the EJ. I have the Merkur 180 which I also like but the EJ89 has become my daily shaver shortly after I received it. Good luck! Charlie