I dont use any after shave but ive heard that alcohol based really dries out the skin.
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Alum bar and a splash of witch hazel will do wonders then when its dry a nice balm!!
I strongly recommend you get a blade sampler pack. This will give you several blades to try. I liked the feather for its sharpness and it gave me more days of shaving with a blade, but it gave me more trouble too. I nicked myself more often with the feather. I switched to another brand and I've been much happier. The more blades you try the informed you will be...
rfm
A blade that won't cut WTG is a dull blade and/or presented outside the realm of functional angles. So yeah, it's going to irritate going in other directions. More lather, change blades often enough to keep them sharp. Pretty easy to find a pal to send you a few to try.
You aren't using pressure when you shave, like with a cartridge razor, are you? If you're getting razor burn and nicks, try using less pressure and give yourself a couple of more minutes. It's worth it. And the real wet shaving soap will make a big difference too.
Start with just the weight of the razor on your face, then add just enough pressure just to be able to control the razor. Go WTG, rinse your face, lather again, then go XTG.
No longer use any pressure, and I no longer get any knicks. My next purchase is gonna be a strop, and send my imperial straight to get sharpened so I can start practicing with it.
I'm guessing that few people go against the grain in the moustache area. I go with the grain, across the grain, then follow the contours around that area from the corner of my mouth to under my nose. Just not enough room to go against the grain.
The Gillette is among the mildest razors I have used. Maybe you're pressing too hard. If you're using canned goo, that is probably adding to the irritation.