Well Constructed Razors

Good afternoon, gentlemen!

It appears as though I will be reneging on my SR aspirations. It is unfortunate, but after consulting my daily schedule I am convinced that I will not set enough time aside for a proper shave. If one has a quality straight but continues to use the Mach III, what good is it?

In the interest of continuing my resolution to "own" things rather than merely possess them, I would like to use the funding previously available for the straight to purchase a quality DE razor. I do not need anything rare or new, or a particular brand name, but would like quality construction.

Let us figure a budget of $200 - $250 for the purchase of razor, brush, mug/bowl, stand, starter soap, and blade assortment. By my estimation, the purchase of the ancillary items will leave $100 - $150 for the razor. So, let us clarify the requirements:

• "Western" in origin. I am not hung on American, but it would be nice.
• Corrosion resistant - my findings have indicated this is not necessarily a given
• Adjustable or Aggressive-ish - I do not have the funding as yet to acquire multiple heads for "mildness" experimentation
• Well balanced - in my testing, I seem to prefer the weight to be centered to slightly head-heavy
• No "mystery" metals - I see a lot of razors advertised as stainless or plated brass, but only the handle is such

The main focus here is material and construction quality; I can "learn" a razor, I cannot mill my own out of my preferred materials.

So far I have looked at Merkur, Gillette, and Muhle. If you have some thoughts, I would love to hear them! I will be purchasing in May, as my birthday is the 23rd. I will be 29, so I don't think a "birthdate" Gillette would be all that special. Did they still make DEs in '85?

I thank you for your time,

Michael

SWMBO loves her Merkur Futur if that counts for anything. Well-balanced. Corrosion-resistant. And adjustable! What more could you want? I'd say the Futur is a good choice. :)

I'd say a vintage Gillette Fat boy in good condition should meet most of your criteria.

Bob

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Originally Posted by BobH

I'd say a vintage Gillette Fat boy in good condition should meet most of your criteria.

Bob

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Which would it not?

It seems that each razor choice definitely has it's draw, each would not have the following it commands if it were not so. But, what of the problems? What is better of this unit than that? Is one of better material but not of construction? Is one the inverse?

I may indeed come down with a case of RAD in the not-so-distant future, but I would like to get any quality reasoning out of the way with the first unit.

I would agree with a vintage Gillette adjustable. Either the Super Slim, the Fatboy or the Black Beauty Super adjustable. Google any of them and you will find a ton of pics and opinions.

They are the razors that set the standard, and you can get one in good shape for $60 and up.

These are designs that have stood the test of time and kept going. Heck, buy a regular Gillette SuperSpeed for <$30 and give it a whirl.

Buying these will allow you to have a wider margin for brush(s) and soap(s)..... and yes, there will more than likely be more than one :)

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Originally Posted by Tryin

Which would it not?

It seems that each razor choice definitely has it's draw, each would not have the following it commands if it were not so. But, what of the problems? What is better of this unit than that? Is one of better material but not of construction? Is one the inverse?

I may indeed come down with a case of RAD in the not-so-distant future, but I would like to get any quality reasoning out of the way with the first unit.

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Any razor you will purchase is by necessity a compromise on some point or other. The old you can't have everything. Even stainless can show mild corrosion. Don't burn out on the trivia.

Bob

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Originally Posted by BobH

Any razor you will purchase is by necessity a compromise on some point or other. The old you can't have everything. Even stainless can show mild corrosion. Don't burn out on the trivia.

Bob

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This I understand, thank you for re-replying.

Of I were to narrow it to two, I would be looking at a Futur or Slim. Possibly a Fatboy, but I think the Slim.

Is there any particular reason to avoid the Slim?

I don't know about the Futur, so can't comment. I would go with a Slim vs. a Fatboy do to the larger availability (made for a greater number of years), therefore easier to find a quality example. Even easier if you don't mind doing a little clean-up and polish.

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Originally Posted by MattCB

I don't know about the Futur, so can't comment. I would go with a Slim vs. a Fatboy do to the larger availability (made for a greater number of years), therefore easier to find a quality example. Even easier if you don't mind doing a little clean-up and polish.

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This is a great lead-up to my next question: with the Slim being manufactured from '61-'86, is there any date range to avoid?

To those out there rolling your eyes and saying "buy the bleeping thing already!", I sympathize but must be clear in my mind. Thank you for your patience.

I have never heard of any date range that bears watching. Can't help you there.

Well, I guess I should start the hunt for a Slim! Looks like an average of $70 on eBay, I think I will try to find one in person or on the forum before going that route.

A big thank you to all who responded, and if anyone has further commentary, it is still welcome!

This may sound strange, but I find using a DE takes just as long, if not longer for me, than using a straight.

I find now if I use a DE or a cartridge, it takes me longer to get a good shave, seems I'm always going back to retouch areas, and it also seems there's a lot more mess to clean up with the cart / DE than with my straight.

Now, the only reason I bring this up is due to the issue of the time required you mentioned.

I'm used to shaving with a straight now, of course there was a learning curve, but the time constraint shouldn't be an issue. In fact I'd bet I could shave just as quickly as anyone with a cart / DE.

So, aside from the learning curve, don't let time be the show stopper, because there is a learning curve, time investment with a DE as well, it will cut you just as quickly and easily as a straight will.

Just a thought....cheers!

Take a look around flea markets, and yard/garage sales. I have picked up many for almost nothing doing this. As a matter of fact, the last fatboy I found was at a flea market and for 5 bucks. It did need to be cleaned up, but with a little work it looked brand new. I am sure you could find a slim the same way

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Originally Posted by scotishcavalir

Take a look around flea markets, and yard/garage sales. I have picked up many for almost nothing doing this. As a matter of fact, the last fatboy I found was at a flea market and for 5 bucks. It did need to be cleaned up, but with a little work it looked brand new. I am sure you could find a slim the same way

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That is the way to do it if you have the time and patience.

Bob

I got my Slim for ~$40 on ebay in nice condition. It took a few weeks of bidding till I got one at the price I wanted. It is a great razor, and I like having something that has served it purpose for as long as I have been around and will continue to do so long after I am gone as long as it is taken care of. It is the razor I use at work, so I use it not quite half the time.

It is not my favorite razor though. I bought an Above the Tie Kronos SS razor. I love that razor. It is a solid heavy razor and the feel and shave are great. It is not an inexpensive razor at just under $200. And I had a steep learning curve with it. For the first two weeks or so the razor fought me hard, but once I figured it out it gives a great shave.

I have a Murker 47c that I started with and that is a good razor too. Any 'quality' razor will give a good shave. There will be some that don't work for some and great for others, but mostly it is what feels good in your hand and what you like the looks of. Probably more important that the razor you first choose is a good sampling of blades to try. Whichever razor you start with, stick with it for a while. Once your shave is solid every (or close to) time you shave then you can look into other razors if you like. If you change to many things at the beginning it will be hard to identify the 'problem' if you have an inferior shave.

I also agree with the time thing. A DE shave is longer for me than a cartridge shave. The difference is that I get a far superior shave and enjoy the process infinitely more. I will use a sharp rock before I'd use a cartridge again. My DE shave is still much faster than my stumbling straight shave, but I expect as I get better at it the two should be about the same. Practice is important.

Whatever way you go I wish you clean, smooth, comfortable shaves!

rfm

Here's what I keep in my rotation to shave my head
Weber
Merkur Slant
Parker
I have many, many more and these are the ones I always grab
If I had to narrow it down more it would be a tough call between the Merkur and Weber

For about a quarter of what you're willing to pay for a slim, you can get a new Maggard razor ( http://www.maggardrazors.com/product...safety-razors/ ). I'll admit to having a sample range of 1, but since I got it a few months ago - on the few non str8 shaves I do - I seem to reach for it, and not my slim. A few others here on srp tried their razors and reported favorably. Just saying, it's an affordable option to consider. BTW the owner is a member here, and I, for one, like to support such businesses.

The Slim is a good choice for it's adjustability since the OP isn't quite sure how aggressive they want yet. If that isn't an issue, Above the Tie makes great razors of solid stainless right in Tennessee. I'm not sure where the Maggard's are manufactured. The Merkurs and other contemporary razors are largely made out of pot metal and may not last as well as either the timeless Gillettes or the ATT.

Not vintage. Not adjustable. Stainless & only slightly aggressive. With Personna surgical blades, it is very comfortable and serviceable. Well made and will outlive the user. Just my $.02.

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Originally Posted by bcw

Not vintage. Not adjustable. Stainless & only slightly aggressive. With Personna surgical blades, it is very comfortable and serviceable. Well made and will outlive the user. Just my $.02.

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That's what I was going to say.

Darn. So I need to look into these Webers. . .

Ok, I looked into the Webers. They seem to be good razors for the most part with a few QC issues.

However, I can't shake the vintage Gillette. If someone knows of a Slim in good to great condition outside of ebay, please let me know. ( I don't use ebay for reasons various and sundry) Would $35-$75 be enough depending on condition, or is that "lowball?" I see prices all over the place.

Thank you gentlemen for all the advice!

I have two Webers, and no issues with either. But I understand the appeal of a vintage razor...

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Originally Posted by Trimmy72

I have two Webers, and no issues with either. But I understand the appeal of a vintage razor...

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It was meant as no disparagement, they really do seem to be fine razors. It seems in '12 or '13 a batch went out with a "smile" to the top cap, giving the edge of the blade a ) look. I don't know if that would affect performance or not. If I were looking at a fixed head, they are top of the list: stainless, USA, good CS. But the adjustable calls. . .

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Originally Posted by Tryin

It was meant as no disparagement, they really do seem to be fine razors. It seems in '12 or '13 a batch went out with a "smile" to the top cap, giving the edge of the blade a ) look. I don't know if that would affect performance or not. If I were looking at a fixed head, they are top of the list: stainless, USA, good CS. But the adjustable calls. . .

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Good information, never heard about their QC issues. The Webers have an unrefined look (tool), more utility than the others mentioned below.
Here's a few more DE's if they haven't been mentioned that are made in the USA
Tradere, Standard razor, and Titan. The Standard razor is the only one out of this bunch that I have and can say it's a decent shaver.

In the interest of helping someone out who might be in my shoes down the road; I have purchased an Edwin Jagger DE89BA11. (That would be a DE89 with barleycorn textured handle, I know I was a bit lost with all the model numbers floating around)

To go with it I have purchased a Muhle Sea Buckthorn soap, a fifty blade sample pack, and a Semogue brush. Oh, a USA bowl from Goodwill. This setup ran just under one hundred dollars and I am confident it will serve me well.

Thank you to all who responded! You guys are the best.

You will enjoy the EJ 89. That was the first DE I purchased, and the Weber was next. I used my EJ today. The Weber is a fine piece of workmanship and is a bit more aggressive, but EJ makes fine implements and it should serve you well.

Nice setup. I really like my Edwin Jagger.

If you want to try an inexpensive and polarizing soap: get a stick of Arko. You either love it or don't like the scent.