Aggressive DE Razors? It's All About Technique.
I just bought my second DE razor the other day; I pitched the first one about 40 years ago due to chronic irritation and slightly less frequent bloodbaths. Fair to say I learned a world about how to shave since finding SRP and using a straight razor daily for almost a year. A straight razor has to be the best defined teacher of all things beard-removal. Some experience with open blades (straights and a Rolls) and skin/lather preparation made my approach to a double edged razor methodical and conservative. That's not to say I bought a particularly conservative shaver, however.
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After good results with open blades a trusted friend suggested an open comb shaver. Bargain priced around $30, I went with the Merkur Classic #41 (aka 1904), a reproduction of the 110 year old Gillette precursor. Smooth shave, darn near perfect actually, with an Astra blade right out of the box. Small enough to work around the neck in all directions and heavy enough to feel substantial; the weight of the razor all but pulls the blade on a downstroke. Yeah, but - first doubled edged razor? I'm not sure proceeding carefully with a traditional open comb would be a bad idea for anyone who is not impulsive. As with an open blade it's all about good skin prep, following a conservative angle from the start and registering the voices of experience before putting steel to skin.
So, the results? First shave was a breeze. Respecting the temper of a so-called "aggressive" open comb shaver for my first dance I used the method proposed by my friend. After proper skin prep and a good lather I rested the top of the razor flat against my sideburn. As I let it draw slowly downward I began tipping the angle of the razor to a gentle "attack". As soon as I felt the blade bite whiskers I backed the angle off a degree or two and continued to march. Repeating this a few times I quickly felt comfortable with setting a mild angle, stretching my skin and drawing the blade up, down or sideways. I made two passes, rated it DFS and called it a day.
I rate success by smoothness when the witch hazel and aftershave is rubbed on, lack of blood, lack of visible post-shave irritation and lack of sweat burning my neck anytime through the day. Then there is the all important "Wife" test. The Merkur Classic #41 gets high marks for price/value, construction, shave performance and design. Folks, if I can use this razor and get a DFS first try then anyone can. I knew any DE razor can cut you but now I know an open comb razor shouldn't arouse undue wariness. New to DE shaving like me? Do your prep well, proceed conservatively to find the lowest angle of attack that shaves clean and quit while you're ahead. Find "your" blade and register a couple of dozen shaves. A well made aggressive razor, if there is such a thing, doesn't bite; bad equipment and bad technique does.
Downside to the Merk 41? The handle is quite short. Like a Rolls, I find it works great for steering around neck patches so I can't complain but others might not like this feature. No travel case - just a cheap paper box. Not a razor for many youths; it will reward experience but may punish a lack forethought or understanding of consequences. Beard reappearance seems to come with spikier tips, FWIW.