Thread: Slant vs adjustables

Originally Posted by Ruppert

So i guess the choice of razor is, as everyone else says, simply up to preference, technique and personal skin/beard type. You can make one do the same as the other with enough practice. Or as my uncle says: with enough technique, a crescent wrench is the only tool you need... well, that and duct tape

No you really can't with enough practice make a mildly aggressive razor do what a very aggressive razor can do. The shave from the milder one will not be as close or as long lasting as the aggressive one. If you have your shaving technique down pat, have a good lather and taking your time using a very aggressive DE it is very possible even at a 9 setting on an adjustable. It won't be a shave where you can get lax though. That is where an adjustable shines for me. If I want ultra close it is set at 9 or if I just want to cruise a 6 setting will do. For the same reason an adjustable is a good DE for the beginner as he can grow into it by dialing it up as his skill level permits.

Bob

Amazon.com: Merkur Long Handled Safety Razor: Health & Personal Care

Been using this Merkur for over a year and I love it! So much so, I'm giving each of my groomsmen one for my wedding in a couple weeks!

Originally Posted by Alex7

What are the differences between the two? Which one is more aggressive? What are the best models of slant razors? I know that only Merkur produces adjustables these days.

Hi @Alex7

1) An adjustable moves the baseplate of the razor head to create a larger blade gap.
A slant is a razor which holds a blade that is 'slanted'. It could be slanted by a twist (eg Merkur 37C/39C) or via a hump & slanted head (eg Shavecraft #102).

2) Neither is more "aggressive". Aggressive is a term used a lot in shaving but people mean different things by it. It's better to speak of efficiency. (How efficient can this razor remove hair?) There are several factors in a razor to determine this:
- blade angle (how much angle does the head have?)
- blade exposure (how much blade is exposed if you look top down?)
- blade gap (distance between base plate and top cap)

A razor can be both efficient and comfortable, or efficient and uncomfortable, and be called "aggressive". So best not use that term unless you define it.

3) There are heaps of slants available now:
- Merkur 37C (or longer handled 39C)
- Merkur Bakelite slant
- Razorock Stealth Slant
- iKon Slant
- IKon Shavecraft #102
- Lutz slant
- Hoftwich vintage slant
- Above the Tie slant baseplate

It is not true that there is only Merkur slants...

They vary in terms of comfort mostly, but some are judged slightly more efficient than another.

My suggestion is that you try a few different razor styles:
- an adjustable
- a slant razor
- an open comb

Also worth considering is an open comb razor. It exposes more of your hair to the blade and so efficiently cuts it. It is different to a slant and adjustable. Some prefer it since it is very good at not clogging with several days worth of growth.

It is worth noting that while there are many slants, many of the brands of vintage slants are re-branded Merkur slants. Hoffritz, Lunawerk, Coles, and the more common variation of the Pomco, are all Merkur 137Cs with a different company name stamped on the handle.

Earlier Merkur Slants, some branded Merkur, Pomco, Brammi (made in West Germany) had the same head but were 3 piece razors with a thinner, sort of Gillette clone handle. IMO these, even though they have the same head, are a milder shave than the thicker handled 137C we know today.

I am thinking people can and do use the terms mild and aggressive as a quantifier of efficiency. The head design of some razors because of the blade gap, blade exposure and blade angle make them more difficult to use to get a comfortable shave with.

I mean my Muhle R41 2013 version will give me a longer lasting shaves than my Merkur 37c slant. The Merkur slant is much easier to use as it is more forgiving of the angle it is used at and pressure applied compared to the Muhle R41. Both will give comfortable shaves for me. To me the Muhle is more efficient/aggressive as it gives a longer lasting shave.

So basically some DEs by their head design become so aggressively efficient at removing stubble they are more difficult to get a comfortable shave from. To a large extent efficiency and aggressiveness can be the same thing. I mean even what is considered a mild head like the Gillette Tech can give uncomfortable shaves for a beginner at the start.

Where aggressive and efficient diverge is in the skill level of the user. You can't change the head specs of a DE, with the exception of the adjustables, so the efficiency remains the same. The user may not be able to properly use the efficiency of a DE head design so it is too aggressive for their skill level leading to uncomfortable shaves.

Bob

I've not had an opportunity to use the 2013 version, but the 2011 Muhle R-41 is amazingly efficient but also lives up to the reputation of being amazingly aggressive. I think of the old admonition given to beginning motorcycle riders, to never lose 'respect' for it, if you don't want to crash. If the shaver is not well experienced, well seasoned I could visualize a disaster of irritation, if not blood letting. OTOH, though I hate to admit it, the R-41 out does the Merkur slant. It is the closest shaving DE I've ever tried, and I've tried a many of them.

Like Bob, I still prefer the 137C, or the 139C Merkur slants. For me shaving with the 2011 R-41 is somewhat like 'walking on eggs.' Maybe not that bad, but there is little room for error, and for me, it requires absolute concentration and focus. I have to really be in the mood for it. Not the razor I'll grab if I'm running late and want a quick shave, whereas the 137C may take an extra pass to achieve the same results, but it is a pleasure to use AFAIC.

I'm not a fan of adjustable heads. Maybe because I began shaving with them when I was a teenager and didn't really know what I was doing. IIRC I settled on a blade exposure of 5-7. I found that an early Aristocrat, or a red tip Super Speed approximates that exposure, and doesn't have all that extra hardware weighing it down or sort of throwing the whole thing out of balance for my hand. Of course that is a big YMMV there.

It has been a number of years since I sold it, but I had a Merkur Vision for awhile. IIRC I read in a review, and it seems like I recall, that the Vision has a slight slant to the head. Not sure of that though as it has been quite awhile since I had mine. I can say that it gave a hell of a shave. Like the Gillette adjustables you have to dial in the exposure, which I don't like, and the thing is huge. If someone likes a bear of a razor the vision is a Grizzly.

Another favourite head design that I like and has been mentioned is the Open Comb. There again the efficiency of the head design varies from mild to wild. Certain models of the vintage Gillette open combs can be on the aggressive side but give a lovely shave if you treat them well. Yes, and clog proof too but the Merkur slant is pretty darn good in that respect also.

Bob

Originally Posted by BobH

Another favourite head design that I like and has been mentioned is the Open Comb. There again the efficiency of the head design varies from mild to wild. Certain models of the vintage Gillette open combs can be on the aggressive side but give a lovely shave if you treat them well. Yes, and clog proof too but the Merkur slant is pretty darn good in that respect also.

Bob

Just got a Cadet open comb and have to say it is one of if not my very best de shavers. Less than $20

Originally Posted by cubancigar2000

Just got a Cadet open comb and have to say it is one of if not my very best de shavers. Less than $20

I have read good things about those Cadet OCs. Can you compare it to a vintage Gillette OC?

Bob

Originally Posted by BobH

I am thinking people can and do use the terms mild and aggressive as a quantifier of efficiency. The head design of some razors because of the blade gap, blade exposure and blade angle make them more difficult to use to get a comfortable shave with.

Thanks Bob. I agree with what you said above ^^^^.

My point was that "mild" and "aggressive" as terms need to be qualified or described more when used. Some people do and some don't.

I think mild and aggressive as terms can be used on two overlapping but different spectrums:
1) Comfort
(mild = comfortable TO aggressive = harsh)
2) efficiency
(mild = inefficient TO aggressive = efficient)

Originally Posted by BobH

Where aggressive and efficient diverge is in the skill level of the user. You can't change the head specs of a DE, with the exception of the adjustables, so the efficiency remains the same. The user may not be able to properly use the efficiency of a DE head design so it is too aggressive for their skill level leading to uncomfortable shaves.
Bob

Absolutely agree. The technical skill of the operator is an intersection point.

But a person can get more skilled in this area leading them to think that the razor is performing differently. (As what someone pointed out with their use of an adjustable during their youth.)

It also means that different skilled users will give different assessments of the razor even though it has not changed at all!