Air Dry vs Wiping your blade

I got my new 7 O'clock razors today and the shave is pretty nice. Of course I was curious to see how the blade looked after the shave and I noticed there was a little fuzz remaining on the blade.

Now everywhere I read that people should let their blades air dry. I shake them off as best as I can but there are still small water droplets and I can't see this as beneficial for the blade. Granted they're only used for about a week before I change them but what's the big deal about wiping your blade dry? It's not like your cutting into it!

While on the subject, what are those four dots that hold the razor to the wax paper when you first open it, glue? Wax? Should that stuff be cleaned off prior to shaving?

Thanks!

Edit: Question 3, what do the numbers signify on the double edge blade? (1,2,3,4)

I'm not sure about the numbers on the blade, but when I use my DE all I do is give it a good rinse, shake to get as much of the water off as possible and then leave it to air dry. I'm much more careful with my straights because they arent replaceable blades!

Wiping the whole razor down and drying the blade off may extend the life of the blade some, but its just a bit too fiddly and time consuming for me which is why I dont do it..! DE blades are fairly cheap as well, and I dont use the razor every day, so I get pretty good mileage out of them and I dont worry about it. YMMV of course.

I think the stuff on the paper is wax, but with my Gillette blades this stuff doesnt actually get on the blade, its all on the paper.

I agree with Stubear. It isn't necessary to take the same kind of care with disposable DE razor blades as you would with a str8 razor. I don't disassemble my DE after every shave to air dry or wipe the blade dry. I just rinse it well under the faucet and let it air dry.

When I changed blades every week or so--when I was shaving daily with a DE--I would disassemble the razor, remove the old blade and dispose of it, soak the parts of the razor in a sink full of hot water w/ shampoo and use an old soft bristle toothbrush to remove any soap residue on the mechanism. Then I would insert a new blade and assemble the razor for another week of shaves.

Modern DE blades are really inferior to the old ones and they have coatings applied to them to give them the ability to shave properly. The reason they always say don't wipe a DE blade is because these coating are really thin and they can be taken off. That's one of the reasons you only get a very few shaves out of each blade. Let it air dry. The brief exposure to water won't hurt the blade or the razor unless your razor is vintage with all the plating gone and even then it will just tarnish.

When I shaved with one DE I would loosen the top and rinse it well and leave the blade in place. When I began collecting them and was shaving with a different one daily I took the blade out and left it in the medicine cabinet for the next day. I didn't wipe the blade in either case. I am trying to remember if I wiped them back in the '60s when I used the old Gillette blue blades. If you left those in your DE they tended to rust pretty quick IIRC. I cannot recall whether I wiped those or not. They were pretty rough and I didn't get many shaves out of them. I was very happy when the super stainless and then the platinum plus came out.

I've not had a problem with coated or stainless steel DE blade rusting so I'd say just let them air dry. I can't see a problem with patting them dry but why bother and the more time you spend handling a DE blade out of the razor the more opportunity you have to cut yourself. FWIW I always assumed that the do not wipe was to cover themselves against someone trying to sue them if they did wipe the blade and did get a cut.

I've seen the question about the numbers before and the consensus of opinion seems to be that they are used in the manufacturing process. I've also seen speculation that people that flip the blade round use them to keep track of which way they are shaving but never seen anyone say thats what they do!

I figured that there was some special oil on the blade to keep it from rusting. The only purpose I could see the numbers serving would be to "flip" it maybe mid-week for a better shave?


I'm afraid to wash my razor if it's loose, what happens when it falls down the drain, now I've got two problems haha.


I haven't had a reason to scrub my brushes down with the Colonel Conk soap; it doesn't cake up on the razor itself much as opposed to the Lightfoot Pine soap which I'm done with.I'm going to wait a few days to let my beard grow in a little bit, the Gillette 7'Oclock yellow packs are amazing and I've been getting a really great shave with virtually no irritation, we'll see how they like cutting into Proraso in a few days :y

DoubleEdge23C,

After rinsing under a hot tap, I always soak the razor in some alcohol.

This displaces any water, and partially dissolves some of the soap scum left.

There will always be traces of soap etc left, and I doubt very much if they have much influence on the life of the blade.

Have fun !

Best regards

Russ

Gentlemen:

I am of the air-dry school as well. After the shave, I allow the razor to air dry with the shave head closed. Since I change blades — Feather and 8 O'Clock yellows — every three shaves, I find no need to wipe the blade. Not that I would for fear of removing the blade's coating.

Regards,
Obie

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DoubleEdge23c

I got my new 7 O'clock razors today and the shave is pretty nice. Of course I was curious to see how the blade looked after the shave and I noticed there was a little fuzz remaining on the blade.

Now everywhere I read that people should let their blades air dry. I shake them off as best as I can but there are still small water droplets and I can't see this as beneficial for the blade. Granted they're only used for about a week before I change them but what's the big deal about wiping your blade dry? It's not like your cutting into it!

While on the subject, what are those four dots that hold the razor to the wax paper when you first open it, glue? Wax? Should that stuff be cleaned off prior to shaving?

Thanks!

Edit: Question 3, what do the numbers signify on the double edge blade? (1,2,3,4)

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I do what you have pictured after shaving before work, take the thing apart, dry the pieces with a towel, then let them air dry during the day. When I get home in the evening I put it back together again. That way there's no question I'm doing everything I can to take care of it.

I think this just about settles it. Letting it air dry closed sometimes leaves water droplets on the blade each day and at the same time putting it in alcohol every day might get a little expensive but this could be done from time to time.

I'm surprised Obie changes his blade every three shaves, isn't that a little early? Mine will last a week but I feel the mild tug around the 7 day mark.

CaliforniaCajun has an interesting idea of taking the razor apart each day but with my luck I would come home from work to find someone knocked it over damaging the head as well as the blade.

I'll just give it a good shake since the majority rules that unless I shave with the blade rarely, having a little extra water on the razor shouldn't do too much damage.
:)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DoubleEdge23c

I'm surprised Obie changes his blade every three shaves, isn't that a little early? Mine will last a week but I feel the mild tug around the 7 day mark.

:)

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Hello, DoubleEdge23c:

Variables dictate when individual shavers should change blades. I have a heavy beard and like my blades sharp. The most I can get out of a blade, even a great one such as the Feather, is four days, by which time I feel the blade has lost some of its sharp edge. At three shaves, then, for me, the blade is still acceptably sharp. That's why I have adopted the general rule of changing blades every three shaves.

Regards,
Obie

I hear you Obie, I really like the 7'Oclocks yellow packs and I'm highly contemplating buying a 50/100 pack from BullGooseShaving for 34 bucks. I'm going to finish the pack and make my decision. I haven't opened the feathers yet but they're pretty expensive so I'll probably stick with the Gillettes. My friend is going to give me a box of Dorkos pretty soon; I heard they're pretty good too.

As regards blade drying, I'm very slack about that. At my most conscientious all I do is take the blade out and twang it ... then put it back and forget about it. The best idea I've seen is to trap it in a clothes peg (is that a "pin" in the US?) and leave it somewhere safe.

This business of blade longevity, as Obie says, is a personal variable. Most blades seem to be good for three shaves for me, but Super Iridiums do better, and Swedes (if you can get them) much better. Feathers are strange blades in my experience: undoubtedly sharp, not so smooth, and they seem to deteriorate very suddenly once they're past their best - definitely a three shave blade.

Finally, I'm afraid I wouldn't expect much of the Dorco (sic) blades: definitely a contender for worst razor blade in the world in my very limited experience, and there's no shortage of people who say the same. Dorko, by the way, is a Solingen straight razor brand and a good one too by reputation.

"Clothes pin", yeah go figure - never had to use one of these in years but that's another interesting way to dry the blades. I caved in earlier tonight and just dabbed it on a clean T-shirt and made no effort to drag it along the fabric. The blade is at Shave 3 and still feels great, combined with some Bigelow Proraso I really got an excellent shave with about 30% BBS without any irritation.

I didn't try any Iridiums yet, slipped my mind when I was looking at the Gillettes. When I make my decision on those I'll probably grab a pack of these. They seem to run the same price as the 7 O'clocks
Iridium Super Extra Stainless DE Blades-BullGoose Shaving Supplies

Your story about the loss of Wilkinsons popped up so that's why I don't want to wait too long, I'm sure the Internets' supply of blades isn't going to run out overnight but little things like this have a habit of being put off too long when out of mind. Eventually I'll take the plunge into a straight edge but I like having a nice stock of decent blades.

I'll see how the Feathers go, probably won't be for another month though since I want to really get a feel for these Gillettes like I did the Derbys.

After a little sleuthing I now understand the difference between the Dorcos and Dorkos, amazing how they can do that. I'm not sure what type of straight I'm going to consider but one of my friends in the future plans to send a fairly large order to Lynn and I'll get to pick from that. A little Barbicide and I'll be ready to go.

As far as the Dorcos being garbage, at $11 on Amazon for a pack of 100, they sound like trash but my friend swears by them. Worst case scenario they'll end up in my bag of garbage blades.

edit: What's the deal with this "thanks" button, does it only appear after viewing a few threads?

When I used a DE I just put a drop or two of mineral oil on blade on both sides. Maybe a drop into the mechanism. Not for lubrication but to keep out the water. If a space is occupied by oil it will repel the water. When changing razor, a quick splash of water on DE cleans up anything real quick. Old soap cannot build up nearly as much when all the tight spaces of a closed DE are filled with oil.

So ya, I just let it air dry. There is much less water and soap left in a DE when its packed tight with oil.

Hello, DoubleEdge23c:

I think the Gillette 7 O'Clock "yellows" will serve you well. They have been silky smooth for me, smoother than even the Feathers. Both are great blades, and my regulars at the moment.

Our good friend Arrowhead is correct in his view of the Dorco blades. They are the mildest I have found. I suppose one might consider them passable for an extremely light beard, or a face that pretends to have hair, but even then, the Dorcos, the 300 or the 301 series, are not for a beard with backbone.

I have used the Super Iridium as well. Although sharp and well made, with a big following, I found them less than a good match for my Hollywood face by leaving it somewhat raw.

Through the years, I don't know how many different blades I have tried, but many: Crystal, Persona, Bic, Swedish Gillette, Wilkinson, Derby, and many more. For one reason or another, none has worked as well as Feather and the 7 O'Clock yellows. What's important is that I did try them and made my decision in favor of what I have now.

So yes, brands of razor blades are reliant on personal variables. The same applies to how many shaves per blades.

Regards,

Obie

I don’t know what the hazards of getting mineral oil on your skin are, especially if you happen to nick yourself in the process. Dabbing it on a cotton towel has been pretty good so far, as long as I’m not dragging it across it to remove any substances.

Eventually I’ll see where the Dorcos bring me but if the Iridium’s leave your face raw, I don’t have much of a reason to rush into those. Pity my beard doesn’t grow fast enough to test these as often and thoroughly as I would like to.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Obie

I have used the Super Iridium as well. Although sharp and well made, with a big following, I found them less than a good match for my Hollywood face by leaving it somewhat raw.

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Ah well, you see, I have more of a Hammer Horror sort of face.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DoubleEdge23c

I don’t know what the hazards of getting mineral oil on your skin are, especially if you happen to nick yourself in the process.

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Shouldn't be a problem, as I understand it baby oil is just mineral oil with an added fragrance.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Obie

Hello, DoubleEdge23c:

Variables dictate when individual shavers should change blades. I have a heavy beard and like my blades sharp. The most I can get out of a blade, even a great one such as the Feather, is four days, by which time I feel the blade has lost some of its sharp edge. At three shaves, then, for me, the blade is still acceptably sharp. That's why I have adopted the general rule of changing blades every three shaves.

Regards,
Obie

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I don't have a heavy beard, but I use Personna Double Edge Prep Blades. I figure that using blades that prepare patients for surgery are about as good as it gets. Personna Double Edge Prep Blades - Robbins Instruments - Medical Instruments

Good call on the baby oil, I didn't realize it was mineral oil however how do the Personna blades compare with the 7 O'clock yellow packs? Every day I'm becoming more and more convinced to pick up 100 of these.

For me, and YMMV, they are very smooth but not quite as sharp. They give a great shave without irritation, as much as I like them I find the 7 o'clocks can be a bit much for my skin if I use them every day.

Just a quick addition to letting blades air dry in the razor, what about hitting the whole lot with a blast of hot air from the lady's hairdryer.

Is this likely to do damage or even bake soap residue into the razor?

I let my DE razors air dry.
I found some old Gillette info on care of butterfly opening razors so Super speeds Rockets Ect and what Gillette was recommending to do with the razor after was to slighlty open the doors with the blade in and place under a running tap (faucet?) to rinse of any soap lather then close the doors and shake off excess water. So thats what I do when I'm cleaning up after a shave. though I would take more care to dry off a carbon steel straight.

The numbers on the blade have no significance for the user. They are placed on by the manufacturer to help identify which part of the blade making process is wrong if they start getting defective blades. Just makes it easier for them to identify what stage in the production process is wrong. I wish everybody could realize how much money they could save shaving if they just discovered the double edge razor. These prices for all these 12 blade razors are ridiculous.